silverdoctor

propionate on balsa

6 posts in this topic

Hope I can get some pearls on the following question:

Can I expect to get a surface on balsa suitable for priming using only propionate coupled with sanding? On large, tapered baits I'm still getting graininess requiring D2T to "hide."

Thanks for input in advance, ken

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After two or three dips, the surface is fixed with the plastic. The first dip soaks in, the second dip fills any remaining pores, the third dip gives you something to sand. A light sanding to remove the raised grain, followed by another couple of dips should give you your prep. If grain is still evident, sand and dip again, until smooth.

A light rub down with scotchbrite or 600 grit paper, should give you good paint adhesion. This method works for me.

Dave

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Dave; Thank you very much!

On my thick, tapered baits, I'm getting the reverse of raised grain, kinda like elongated pull out. Not real deep but annoying. The raised grain is easier to handle. I am now in the optimistic camp again! More experiments (with less screw-ups, hopefully.)

ken

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Keep dipping until you get a smooth surface that you are desiring. I do about 4 dips minimum and 6 dips max. There are other people that do more but it also depends on how thick your propionate is.

Goodluck, Jacob

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The balsa has to be sanded smooth to start (you knew there was no Free Lunch!). I sand down to 400 grit and then dip 6-10 times in prop solution. If any areas are rough after 2-3 dips, lightly sand them before continuing. For baits I fish myself, I don't get too worried about minor surface irregularities on balsa because I topcoat them with epoxy, which hides minor problems. As I understand it, commercial builders often use what they term a "build coat" to smooth out irregularities in balsa before finishing. It's more, and thicker (typically about 1 mm thick), than a grain filler. You see it on a lot of balsa baits if you strip the finish. One product I've heard used for it is flooring glue.

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Jacob: You may have hit on it; my goop may have been too thin. (Wisdom from youth, thanks)

Bob: The final steps of forming the bait involve sanding; I'm not sure how you could avoid this with balsa. A duplicator for $16,000?

ken

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