.dsaavedra.

iwata revolution BR

23 posts in this topic

is this a good airbrush for a starter like myself? seems like it would be a good starter brush and its priced nicely.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
is this a good airbrush for a starter like myself? seems like it would be a good starter brush and its priced nicely.

That would make you a decent brush, but for the about the same money i'd go with the Iwata Eclipse series rather then the Revolution....but thats just me....guess i'm partial to the Eclipse....its been one of the best airbrushes i've ever owned.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
is this a good airbrush for a starter like myself? seems like it would be a good starter brush and its priced nicely.

my advice to anyone wanting a good airbrush is to go with masters airbrush model g44 ...coast about 60 bucks

2mm needle will paint hairline out to about 1 inch

i have done custom paint for many years now ,and own many high end brushes

the masters measures up to brushes that i have spent hundreds of dollars on .

i would suggest you buy a extra needle with brush they are very fragile drop it and your done :pissed::pissed::censored: trust me i know

keep your airbrush clean, and lots of practice just my :twocents: worth hope this helps

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Well I have the eclipse and its been awesome! When I first got it I didnt know how to use but now I got it figured out and its pretty good. Its a good gun and I bet if I knew how to use it better that I could do anything with it.

lol make sure its clean to, that makes a world of difference:whistle:

Goodluck, Jacob

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

the eclipse is generally about 50 bucks more than the revolution from what i've been seeing, is this right?

how much do both of them usually go for? when i typed them into google shopping i got a wide range of prices...

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

oh, another question, what is the thing inside that little cutout section of the handle on the iwata eclipse hp bs?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I got my elcipse with the hose for about 120 bucks. You can get the 40% coupon from hobby lobby and that will knock some cash off the brush.

The little cut out on the back end of the brush.... well still cant figure out why its there:huh::?.

Jacob

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I use an Revolution BR with a .3mm tip and it's super nice. Same all metal, high build quality of Iwata's more expensive brushes at a reasonable cost, without the bells & whistles that I don't find useful (like the "+" trigger stop feature on the HP B+ which I also have). Within the Iwata lineup, JMHO, just look for the tip size you need and the quality will be there.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
the eclipse is generally about 50 bucks more than the revolution from what i've been seeing, is this right?

how much do both of them usually go for? when i typed them into google shopping i got a wide range of prices...

Dixieart.com shows the Revolution with bottle assy and hose for $83.95....they list the Eclipse at $99.95 for same setup with bottle assy and 10ft hose.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

You may like the gravity fed models better. I have the eclipse version and an HP-B. Previous experience with siphon versions, other brands, was not good. Seems like more cleaning involved. I tried a far east knock off of the iwata and was not happy with it.

BobP's endorsement of the revolution is significant. Somewhere on the web Iwata has an intended use comparison of the various models, this may help you. Also, you might try calling the techs at Dixie Art or Medea for comments. I believe the eclipse is their no. 1 seller(??)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

You cannot go wrong with either brush but I will only use the gravity feed versions. For painting baits 1 at a time, it's the easiest to clean between colors.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I got a Revolution BR about a year ago, new on EBay for about $70. I'm not an Iwata expert, didn't stay at a Holiday Inn Express last night, and have never used an Eclipse so can't comment on whether one is better than the other, or why. I can only say I like the Revolution BR just fine. It's every bit as good quality-wise as an HP model (which I also use), just with a larger tip and without "nice to have but unnecessary features" like a trigger stop or a MAC valve for air control. JMHO, you would want a large cup or even a syphon feed brush with a big reservoir if you paint large items but the ?1/16? oz B cup is the right size and small enough no to get in the way visually on crankbaits.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

another painter reccomended that i buy a MAC valve because he said he adjusts the air a lot while painting one bait.

is the MAC valve what is inside of that cutout section of the handle on the Eclipse? i want to know what this is, and why the Revolution doesn't have it.

and no matter which brush i get, it will be gravity feed with a 1/16 oz cup.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
another painter reccomended that i buy a MAC valve because he said he adjusts the air a lot while painting one bait.

is the MAC valve what is inside of that cutout section of the handle on the Eclipse? i want to know what this is, and why the Revolution doesn't have it.

and no matter which brush i get, it will be gravity feed with a 1/16 oz cup.

In my personal opinion I think a MAC valve is just a marketing gimmick, but a few guys swear by them although I can't imagine why......I purchased an add on MAC valve for my Paasche VL close to 20 yrs ago, and I stopped using it after I found that I just didn't need it......DSV, the MAC valve is located near the head assembly....usually where a siphon feed bottle would hang on the bottom of the airbrush....its just a find tuning air valve that allows you to tweak your air pressure at the airbrush while in use.....but I can do that at the regulator that hangs on my mobile work station.....the MAC valve is not anything i'd pay extra for, thats for sure.

The cutout section on the handles that your referring too is to allow you access to the needle chuck assembly....you can pull the needle much farther back by hand this way then what the trigger will allow.....the reason behind this feature is that it allows you to blow a clog out of the tip....blast an extra amount of paint....really fog the paint on.

Years ago we cut the plastic handles on our VL's to the accomplish the same thing....although most guys just removed the handles and paint without them....personally I like the added weight of the handle and how it feels opposed to using the airbrush without the handle....besides...if you drop your airbrush its either gonna land on the tip...or the tail end....Murphy's law I think:wink:.....and if your not using a handle then you'll drive the needle thru the tip and ruin it....I've done that twice so I keep my handles on....lol.

The revolution is labeled as having a "Fixed head and needle assembly".....I dunno what that means since i've never used one....I looked at the exploded parts view on Dixies website and I can't tell much difference.....Mabye BobP can help in that area?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

ok i have very basic knowledge of airbrushes but i have another question.

the airbrush i used was a Badger 350, a siphon feed.

underneath the head there was a cone shaped piece that you twisted to adjust how fine of a spray patter the brush was going to shoot.

based on this site Badger Model 350 Airbrush Parts they're calling it a fluid cap.

it doesn't look like gravity feed brushes have this.

so how do you adjust how fine of a patter a gravity feed brush is going to shoot?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

@ DSV: I think what your getting at is the dual action trigger on the airbrush. It means the same trigger controls two variables, paint flow, and air flow. Push down to increase air flow, and move backward to increase paint flow. Thats atleast how my crappy airbrush works.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Yup...thats the deal...your Badger is a single action brush and that cone shape deal is your spray width adjustment.....with a dual action airbrush the cone shaped fluid cap thingy turns into the nozzle thingy, but its located internal now, and you now adjust the spray width by pulling the trigger back further.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

You see cutouts on the rear of lots of airbrushes, for the reason 68KF said. On an Iwata HP+, there's also an external nut on the very back of the brush that controls how far back you can pull the trigger and thus, how much paint you can release. I never use mine. The MAC air valve is a knob on the bottom front of some higher cost Iwata brushes that controls the air pressure used by the airbrush. It's entirely redundant with the pressure contol knob on your compressor system but it can be handy if that pressure control knob is not in a handy place. It is the latest "extra cost feature" for Iwata airbrushes but it comes at a premium price for what it does. Some guys like it.

When all is said and done, what I want an airbrush to do is atomize paint well, shoot a good consistent spray cone, and be durable. It's too easy to lose sight of what's important with all the little gimmicks that are available.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

thanks for all your help guys! :worship:

i think i'm going to with the Revolution BR when the time comes to get a brush :)

now what about air hoses? i've seen vinyl ones and braided nylon ones, ranging from 6 to 20 bucks. whats best?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
thanks for all your help guys! :worship:

i think i'm going to with the Revolution BR when the time comes to get a brush :)

now what about air hoses? i've seen vinyl ones and braided nylon ones, ranging from 6 to 20 bucks. whats best?

Order a braided hose with your airbrush.....don't mess with those cheapo vinyl hoses.....if your so inclinded, you might concider getting a hose that has a quick disconnect, then get the male end for your airbrush......I use one 10ft hose and all my airbrushes have quick disconnects on them, so I can quickly change from one to another and dont' have a mess of hoses.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Amen, go with braided hose. In the specific case of a Revolution BR, you will probably use it for all stages of bait painting since its .3mm tip is large enough for color basecoating but fine enough to do the rest too. Until you feel the need to add another airbrush to your tool kit, you probably won't need to worry about hose adapters for different brands, manifolds, quick disconnects, etc.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

ok thanks. i figured a braided hose would be better. i guess 6' or 10' depends on your individual setup. i might be able to get away with a 6' hose...

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!


Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.


Sign In Now