CL Rods

Dick Nite - or any Moisture Cure Urethane, questions

15 posts in this topic

OK, well I agreed to work on repainting some jointed baits for a friend so I thought, what a great time to try my Dick Nite sample.

So I have sprayed on 3 layers and it is some what shiny, but not like using ETEX or D2T. But the main reason for using it is to avoid hassles with the joints on these King Shads and others. And I am kind of digging the lack of build up on some of these baits, less impact on the original action.

So for the folks that spray it on baits;

  1. when are you applying your eyes, before or after applying any of the topcoats?
  2. if after you have started are you spraying any DN or MCU over the eyes to help lock them on permanently?
  3. How many coats are you applying? Do you try to build it to a point that it is like a single coat of Etex?
  4. If you are spraying the DN/MCU, how long are you letting them cure/dry before handling the bait safely? Most references have been about dipping dry times.

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This was thinning 3:1 with acetone

1 & 2. With stick on eyes, I'd apply them before the topcoat and spray over them With eyes you have to glue on, when I used superglue it seemed like the DN racted with the glue and clouded over they eyes so I started epoxying them on after the coat cured. Never tried epoxying the eyes on then spraying, figured I'd solve the problem no matter if it was the glue or the eyes themselves.

3. I was a Devcon guy before the DN. I used to spray on anywhere from 6-10 light coats, ending basically when I was happy with the finish........The first 2 or 3 were very lightly sprayed until it started laying flat and more shiny. The rest of the coats were more wet and would lay on much smoother and shinier. Give it a couple minutes to see how it smooths out. The heavier you lay it on, the more easily it seemed to level itself out, without too heavy a coat of course or it will run. Even with the 6-10 coats it wasn't as thick as a coat of Devcon. You only need a couple minutes between coats, only long enough for the solvent to flash off which is pretty quickly.

4. I waited about a day to handle the lures lightly if I had to. The finish was still noticibly soft then so I liked to wait about 3 days. After a week you can handle them normally, but to me, there was a noticeable difference for the next two weeks. Total of about 3 weeks before I stopped noticing a difference.

I was much happier with the DN than using epoxy.......that said I made the switch to an auto clear due to the curing times.

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Coating thickness - Yep, it is much thinner than DN. However, it is also slicker, tougher and so less prone to hook rash. I dip in DN which I guess yields the thickest coating possible per application, and it would require at least 4-5 dips to be as thick as D2T. But why would I? One reason I use the stuff is to get a more "factory look" finish.

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THINNER IS BETTER THAN THICKER!! well in paint that is...

Its harder to get thin clear off a bait than thick..

THICK CHIPS EASIER!!! goes against want you think..

Charlie.. bring your baits over when your done and we both can clear them. I want to try DN anyway.. I got some other stuff too so we can really see which is the best.. call it a trial and error test. I agree with bob on the Factory finish. THINNER!!!

The Rookie

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THINNER IS BETTER THAN THICKER!! well in paint that is...

Its harder to get thin clear off a bait than thick..

THICK CHIPS EASIER!!! goes against want you think..

Charlie.. bring your baits over when your done and we both can clear them. I want to try DN anyway.. I got some other stuff too so we can really see which is the best.. call it a trial and error test. I agree with bob on the Factory finish. THINNER!!!

The Rookie

I'd be interested in your findings - Please post them!

Dick

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Dick.. I have heard great things about your product.. so I really hope Charlie comes over just so I can finally try it. In the past I have spoke to you over the phone with attempts to order some DN clear coat.. You were very very nice and told me to send you a email. But for some reason my email system thinks Im sending you spam and it never gets to you.. It's my fault for never bringing this to your attention. So in no way am I trying to disprove the durability of your product and more than likely Im not going to do some huge test...other than sparying some of your clear and fishing them to see how they hold up..I kinda already know how they hold up because I have fished Dean's baits and the durability is OUTSTANDING!!!..

It's just easier for me to go to my local automotive supply shop and buy the current clear coat I use and I have been very happy with the results as well. I hope my first post did not come across that way. If so Im very very sorry. I really want to try it and now that I know my friend Charlie has it. I can kill 2 birds with one spary. I will clear his baits and a couple of my baits.. From all the great things I hear about DN Im sure it will be a success.

The Rookie

Edited by The_Rookie

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I think we hobby and custom builders/painters tend to put on a belt on AND suspenders when we get up in the morning, and then treat crankbaits the same way - there's no such thing as overkill! Can't be too durable! Can't have too much protection! If one coat is good, 10 coats must be better! Sometimes we can go too far.

I dip in DN and let it dry for 24 hrs, then usually dip a second coat. If you dip again too soon, you get blemishes. To me, an immutable law of crankbait finish is "The more you do to it, the more often you will screw up". So I'm experimenting with one dip of DN on bass baits to see if that's enough. Results seem good so far.

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Well I went to Rookie's place and we discussed the various clears, and I am going to try spraying the next batch with an automotive touch up gun versus an air brush. This will allow for a little more build. Because after seeing a few of his paint jobs, it was evident that multiple layer look of depth came through with the automotive clear he uses.

It seems to be a little harder to get a wet coat and look with the airbrush. But I came back an put on a heavier coat than I had been doing and it is starting to get the 'depth' look coming through that you get so well with epoxy.

There is just one effect that clearly will not be the same and that is the use of glitter. When you use epoxy you can stir in addtional glitter in the top coat and it won't all lay in one perfect plane on the surface of the lure. So all the bait has to do is turn a very small amout to achieve a lot of flash. Use of DN (or any thinner top coat probably) definitely produces more of the factory look to glitter finishes.

So.. for simple schemes where it isn't all about that deep layered look, I will probably stick with some form of Moisture Cure Urethane. It is just so much easier to apply with a lot less chance for goofing up on the final process in building baits.

And I'll take off the suspenders.

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Don't get me wrong.....the 6-10 coats i was putting on was definitely almost always closer to 6, and probably thinner than two dipped coats. They're all very light coats, even the heavier ones. If your coats are close enough together time wise the next coat will kind of melt into the last one and smooth out a minute or so after you mist it on. It just still seemed like ti wasn't enough so I'd throw on a couple more slightly heavier coats.

Gator, if you try sprinkling the glitter on between coats it works well, you end up with some of them kind of standing on edge. If it's a bigger flake though, they can trap air behind them sometimes. Also if you're looking to cover them with a smooth finish you're gonna need a few more coats.

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Gator has always had this infactuation with glitter.. I would compare it to the MAN CRUSH Chris Matthews from HARDBALL has on President Obama. He just can't fish without it. It started at a early age. First a glitter blanky, then a glitter pasy and then at his wedding he got a glitter toaster.. years later he asked the wife for a glitter floor.... TV remote.. glitter glitter everywhere...

From what I could see gator was doing very very light coats with DN. So maybe just a couple more coats and he would have achieved the level of depth he was lookin for with DN.. I was going to suggest maybe not using the glitter at all..:? but then I thought about how would Gator react ":oooh:" ":pissed:"":boo:" ok ok keep the glitter on your baits..

Hopefully Dick will send me a invoice for my sample after I PM'ed him and I will pay him.. cause nobody should ever expect something for free unless its GLITTER LOVE!!! right Charlie!! and even then sometimes you have to pay a cover charge and give a DOLLAR! :oooh::eek:8O:drool::halo:

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:twocents: Rookie, I think you should paint up one of your newest designs and show it on here. Do the 'cracker' shad thing deep lip and one of your blue gills or that Auto Air midnight blue sexy shad looking color with a shallow lip. I think the body shape is great and should be a reall producer! :worship::worship: If you don't then I will with the ones I got from you.:P:P:oooh:

:popcorn::popcorn:

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Gator has always had this infactuation with glitter.. I would compare it to the MAN CRUSH Chris Matthews from HARDBALL has on President Obama. He just can't fish without it. It started at a early age. First a glitter blanky, then a glitter pasy and then at his wedding he got a glitter toaster.. years later he asked the wife for a glitter floor.... TV remote.. glitter glitter everywhere...

From what I could see gator was doing very very light coats with DN. So maybe just a couple more coats and he would have achieved the level of depth he was lookin for with DN.. I was going to suggest maybe not using the glitter at all..:? but then I thought about how would Gator react ":oooh:" ":pissed:"":boo:" ok ok keep the glitter on your baits..

Hopefully Dick will send me a invoice for my sample after I PM'ed him and I will pay him.. cause nobody should ever expect something for free unless its GLITTER LOVE!!! right Charlie!! and even then sometimes you have to pay a cover charge and give a DOLLAR! :oooh::eek:8O:drool::halo:

Funny dude!!! :D:D

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