Mags

Problems with 3D Eyes and Auto Clear

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I am having some problems with the 3D eyes coming off baits I clear coat with automotive clear coat. The baits don't have an insert for the eyes, so they "bug" out. I have no trouble on baits with the eye holes cut in the bait. I have tried spraying heavier in the eye area, but I end up getting small bubbles on the eyes. When I was brushing epoxy or DN it was heavy enough to encapsulate the eyes, but the auto clear sprays a lot finer, so it is hard to cover the tiny gap between the eyes and the bait. Would an auto touch up gun be better for spraying the clear rather than an air-brush, to get a heavier initial coat? Any suggestions.

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Try a drop of epoxy behind the eyes. This probably isn't what you want to hear, but try flat eyes, too. I spray mine with a 0.5mm airbrush, for lures you don't need a touch up gun.

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I am having some problems with the 3D eyes coming off baits I clear coat with automotive clear coat. The baits don't have an insert for the eyes, so they "bug" out. I have no trouble on baits with the eye holes cut in the bait. I have tried spraying heavier in the eye area, but I end up getting small bubbles on the eyes. When I was brushing epoxy or DN it was heavy enough to encapsulate the eyes, but the auto clear sprays a lot finer, so it is hard to cover the tiny gap between the eyes and the bait. Would an auto touch up gun be better for spraying the clear rather than an air-brush, to get a heavier initial coat? Any suggestions.

I noticed that when I sprayed clear on my bait that there was still a gap around the edge of the eye.....I put several coats on before that gap seemed to fill over, but then once it dried i'd noticed that the clear at the very bottom of the eye had ran away from the eye so its not really sealed up as well as the top edge now...I don't use a turning device to rotate the lures but I may need to reconsider?.....I wondered if i'd have problems with the eye coming off after being used for awhile....guess we'll see.....I do think i'd like to glue them in place rather then rely on the adhesive backing.

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I usually take a carbide cylinder shaping bit and make recesses for 3D eyes, or at least flat areas for flat adhesive eyes. Plastic baits are usually thick skinned enough to do that. If you can't, or think it may drill through the plastic, it's usually better to paint the eyes in. Solvent clearcoats and stick-on eyes just don't get along that well. If you stick them on a curved surface, the solvent will often break them loose and you end up with a mess.

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I had one bait recently where they came off, but on everything else they have held, although I admit I haven't fished them super hard. Maybe I am just being too cautious, but they sure look like they would come off pretty easily, although if I try to move them around they seem solid. I will give the glue a try. I was thinking of a faster drying super glue instead of epoxy, like a Bob Smith Industries "thick". Are you removing the adhesive backing before gluing or just leaving it intact and using the glue also? The reason I metioned a detail gun was that "The Rookie" had mentioned using one in a recent post for getting a deeper effect with auto clear. The auto clear out of my gravity feed brush requires 4-5 coats to get that deep effect and The stuff starts to set-up in the cup if I wait too long. I think one heavy coat would be ideal.

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Yes, I thought about drilling recesses, but getting them perfectly symetrical on each side of the bait is going to be difficult. If you're off by just a little it is going to be noticable. I personally prefer painted eyes, but many want the 3D.

Edited by Mags
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why dont you try to put on 2 good coats of clear allow to dry sand with 1200 to 1500 wet/dry sand paper and apply another 2 coats this will be like sanding down primer to fill the cracks and also give a better finish ........this grade of paper is quite safe to paint over with out scratches showing :yay:

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Big eyes, small ones, painted ones, what color, 3D? It's an interesting question from the viewpoint of what catches fish. Do bass like to see eyes on a bait? Or do they bite faster if they can't see the eyes, and so can't be seen by them? I haven't been able to detect a difference among the eye choices in regard to catch ratios, so think it boils down to what the fisherman thinks looks good.

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Bob, your so right about the fisherman wanting different styles on these baits. I too, have been using the 3-d eyes & found they don't like to be placed on a curve & I also learned to use a touch up gun w/ a 1.2mm to a 1.4mm tip seems to do the trick, after some trial & error. I learned that from a fellow on here, but he doesn't come around much, since he was called up to the BIG LEAGUES. I think the recessed deal Bob mentioned, has worked the best for me. Now I'm off to buy some $5.99 glass eyes for me new baits. Man this is one expensive hobby. :whistle: Oh well...

Tim

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Yes, I thought about drilling recesses, but getting them perfectly symetrical on each side of the bait is going to be difficult. If you're off by just a little it is going to be noticable.

I've already been wondering how to go about that very thing....build some type of template to mark the area to drill, or a jig to hold the lure maybe?

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Any additional steps in painting these things is one too many.

your dead right but if you want to use the laquer finish it is all part and parcel ,Im a spay painter by trade and believe me not every thing is that simple ,when using 3d eyes I just stick with etex and use a hot air gun placeing the eyes on .gives them more flex and better adhesion :teef:

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