pvc and eye hooks

[ROWINGADUBAY]

I have been making some cisco type baits for muskies from pvc and using eye screws for hook hangers {the line tie is on the metal lip} and I was wondering if anyone has problems with the screws holding in pvc. the screws I am using are about 1.25 inches long and are used in many wooden lures and they seem strong I would just like to correct a problem before it happens I know some of you don't like eye screws at all but I have had good luck with them in wood and never had one fail yet. So do any of you use screw eyes in wood but not in pvc? I have made some hangers out of wire that use two screws that I put in the bait at opposing angles that probably are stronger but I would like to skip the extra steps and cost and just use eye screws. Any thoughts on this?

Thanks George

[mark poulson]

George,

I use the .092, 1 1/8" sst screw eyes for both hinges, line ties and hook hangers in my PVC lures, and they work fine.

I drill a small pilot hole and run the screw eye in, to cut the threads. Then I run it back almost all the way out, coat the threads with brush on crazy glue, and run it back in to it's final position.

I do the same thing for all the screw eyes I use, and have never had a failure.

I haven't done a test by hanging a weight from the eyes, but they've held through a lot of fishing, and fish.

PVC is very strong and tough, so, once you've cut the threads with the screw eye, the glue coats them and makes them even stronger, and keeps the eyes from rotating.

I run the eyes for the line tie and hook hangers all the way in until the actual round eye begins to seat in the PVC, so both the glue and the top coat help hold them from rotating.

[ROWINGADUBAY]

I figured they would be o.k. i pulled as hard as I could and they held up but I always worry about that big fish getting they bait at the wrong angle where the lure body would be like a lever multiplying the force you use to reel them I will have to do some experimenting but i think they will bend before they pull out or crack the lure

Thanks to all

George

[KelpKritter]

I do as Mark does and got a report from one of the guys fishing my bait today. He told me he had over a hundred fish so far on one of my PVC jointed swimbaits and the only problem he is encountering is some blemishes in the top coat from all the teeth marks!

DaveB.

KelpKritter

[mark poulson]

I do as Mark does and got a report from one of the guys fishing my bait today. He told me he had over a hundred fish so far on one of my PVC jointed swimbaits and the only problem he is encountering is some blemishes in the top coat from all the teeth marks!

DaveB.

KelpKritter

Dave,

That's fantastic!

Congrats on building a great lure.

[KelpKritter]

Mark,

It has been fun. Got orders for 7 more baits today from all the hype. BTW I have had no failures with the top coat. The baits are going strong. Seriously considering moving to molding the baits. We'll see!

DaveB.

KelpKritter

KelpKritterBaits

[diemai]

@ mark poulson , @ KelpKritter , @ paintsniffer

Just had look over , and probably I should keep my mouth shut , as I am not used to work with PVC:huh: ?

But one thing came into my mind , ........you guys in California don't fish for muskie with your baits but bass , do ya ?

I suppose , muskie are a lot stronger than bass in fight , just because of their bigger size alone:? ?

And I have seen on video the way American muskie anglers toss in the fish , nothing much like playing the fish patiently as we do with pike in Europe , as we are most likely fishing lighter gear .

Anyway , I mount my screw eyes similar like Mark has already described ,..... only I would extend the pilot hole a its entry to a bit larger than double eye shank dia , almost 1/4" deep ,........ after twist in the screw eye with some epoxy glue smeared on it's shank , thus a kinda "glue plug" would set in the extention of the hole .

No problems yet in any wood lures , even pulled out an approx. 47" pike with a lure rigged like that , no problems at all !

good luck , diemai:yay:

Edited September 4, 2009 by diemai

[hazmail]

DAVE

Before everyone else asks - What are you using for a top coat? must be good -AND congrats on your mates success with your lures, they must be just as good.pete

[mark poulson]

The "Cone of Silence" was officially lifted by the maker who gave me the tip about this stuff, so here's the entire deal.

It's called SC 9000, from Target Coatings. We both use it.

Super-Clear 9000 Polyurethane

It's a waterborne urethane. It comes flat, semi gloss, and gloss.

I use the gloss and the flat.

It is listed as interior, but I've had no failures or problems with using it on lures, and now Dave's chimed in with his experiece in the salt, using the same stuff.

I dip my lures once every two hours, to put three coats on them. That equals about one coat of Etex in overall thickness.

Now, bear in mine that we both use PVC decking, which is very hard. I haven't tried it on a wood bait yet.

It is not sensitive to air exposure, so I let the excess drip back into the wide mouth jar I use for dipping. I actually left the lid off overnight accidentally, and there was no skin the next morning. I just try not to make bubbles in the jar before I dip, or I have to blow on them right away to get rid of them.

It cures out to full strength in 72 hours, but I fish lures I've made for myself after 24 hours.

I dip after I've put my final paint coat on, and heat set it, and let it set for an hour. So I can paint and finish a lure in two days, counting the time it takes for the rattle can primer to dry.

If I used a sealer like propionate, I could probably finish a lure in one day.

My only limitation is the amount of space I have over my workbench for drip drying.

It's almost fool proof, and I can't begin to tell you how much less stress I have from not worrying about turning, drips, and uncovered spots.

It has cut two days off my lure building process, and, if it stands up to the salty critters Dave's customer's catch, it'll stand up to muskies, too.

And it's perfect for refinishing plastic lures.

[Husky]

The "Cone of Silence" was officially lifted by the maker who gave me the tip about this stuff, so here's the entire deal.

It's called SC 9000, from Target Coatings. We both use it.

Super-Clear 9000 Polyurethane

It's a waterborne urethane. It comes flat, semi gloss, and gloss.

I use the gloss and the flat.

It is listed as interior, but I've had no failures or problems with using it on lures, and now Dave's chimed in with his experiece in the salt, using the same stuff.

I dip my lures once every two hours, to put three coats on them. That equals about one coat of Etex in overall thickness.

Now, bear in mine that we both use PVC decking, which is very hard. I haven't tried it on a wood bait yet.

It is not sensitive to air exposure, so I let the excess drip back into the wide mouth jar I use for dipping. I actually left the lid off overnight accidentally, and there was no skin the next morning. I just try not to make bubbles in the jar before I dip, or I have to blow on them right away to get rid of them.

It cures out to full strength in 72 hours, but I fish lures I've made for myself after 24 hours.

I dip after I've put my final paint coat on, and heat set it, and let it set for an hour. So I can paint and finish a lure in two days, counting the time it takes for the rattle can primer to dry.

If I used a sealer like propionate, I could probably finish a lure in one day.

My only limitation is the amount of space I have over my workbench for drip drying.

It's almost fool proof, and I can't begin to tell you how much less stress I have from not worrying about turning, drips, and uncovered spots.

It has cut two days off my lure building process, and, if it stands up to the salty critters Dave's customer's catch, it'll stand up to muskies, too.

And it's perfect for refinishing plastic lures.

Mark,

Have you tried spraying it through your brush? It sounds as though you might be able to get a translucent/transparent tint with it.

[ROWINGADUBAY]

How does your stuff hold up to hook rash.I think hook rash is the only reason to use epoxy when I first started I would get great finishes with any spray or dip finish but after an hour of fishing half of the paint was gone from my bait

[mark poulson]

No, I haven't tried to spray it. Dipping it is so quick and easy, that's all I do.

And I think I get a thicker coating when I dip.

I watch the drips for a few minutes, and wipe off the excess when it accumulates, usually two or three times is enough.

If a drip hardens, after a day, you can sand it off, or take it off with a file.

On one piece lures that have a nose line tie and a rear hook hanger, the drips accumulate on whichever eye is down, and can be cleaned off after the urethane has set. I girdle the eye with an exacto knife to keep the urethane on the rest of the lure from being affected, and peel off the stuff on the eye.

For finicky lures, I suppose you can take turns with one end up, and then the other, to try and get the film coverage uniform, but I don't think it's that important.

Edited September 4, 2009 by mark poulson

[.dsaavedra.]

yup i use the Superclear too, after Mark's reccomendation, and its been good for me. dipping it sure is easy! like he said, if there is an eye on the very tip of the bait, you can just let the drips run right off that, but if there isn't you gotta wipe them up as they accumulate.

i like this stuff so far, only thing i don't like about it is that it doesn't get rock hard like devcon, but its really not that big of a deal because it still holds up just fine.