56 replies to this topic
Posted 02 September 2009 - 10:44 PM
I read about a couple of ways to make stencils in the Tutorials section. One used heat shrink tubing that was placed over the bait and then shrunk to conform to the bait and the other involved making a mold of the crankbait and then heating plastic over the crankbait mold and pressing the crankbait and hot plastic into the mold.
I was just wondering if anyone has ever tried vacuum forming? Does anyone have any information about this process or know of someone in the business? Not sure how expensive it would be, but multiple molds for a variety of crankbaits could all be molded at one time. After the two halves were formed you could cut gill plates, lateral lines, kill spots or whatever else you wanted into the mold so that paint could then be shot through it. Sure would like some info on this process if anyone has knowledge of it.
Posted 03 September 2009 - 04:49 AM
where is that tutorial? .. sounds interesting, but I can't find it!
Posted 03 September 2009 - 06:50 AM
Ray- if you do a search "vacuum stencils" , you will get:
which from memory covers it pretty well.
I have been meaning to make something to do this, rather then making stencils with a heat gun - as you say they save heaps of time. Let us know how you go. pete
Edited by hazmail, 03 September 2009 - 06:51 AM.
Posted 03 September 2009 - 11:41 AM
Thanks Pete. I never thought about actually building a vacuum form. It doesn't look like it would be that hard to do. No doubt it would be cheaper to build than paying a company to make the forms for you. I'm pretty excited about this as I believe it would make really accurate stencils that would be easy to use and probably outlast me. If I can get one built I'll post it. Thanks again.
Posted 04 September 2009 - 08:03 PM
I'm going to try and make a set of stencils out of milk containers for my trout baits.
I hate having to do the spots by hand, and my stencil doesn't follow the baits' contours well enough to make sharp spots.
I'll let you know how it works out.
Posted 04 September 2009 - 11:54 PM
With the help of a friend, I am currently in the process of building a vacuum table. Or at least trying to. As soon as I can gather up the material to make it we will be getting started. Hopefully we can get it done next week sometime. I'll let ya'll know how it turns out.
Posted 05 September 2009 - 05:04 AM
Ray - It's been a while since we have seen someone so enthusiastic and with so many posts, hang in there and let us know where you are up to with this .
We are all worried about finishes etc (including me), BUT jigs and stencils, IMO are a much neglected item on this and all other forums, without them what's the good of a flash top coat....pete
Posted 05 September 2009 - 08:46 AM
Thanks Pete. I just hope I'm not asking too many questions. I don't want to seem like I'm hogging the boards or anything. There are just so many things I don't have a clue about when it comes to painting lures. I used to be obsessed with bass fishing and due to a few back injuries over the years I'm no longer able to stay on the lake as I used to. Painting cranks has given me a way to enjoy another side of the fishing game. I know one thing for sure. If it weren't for the great folks on this message board I sure wouldn't be as far along as I am. I can't thank ya'll enough.
Posted 05 September 2009 - 10:04 AM
I used to do a lot of woodworking.
There are already made vacuum tables available.
Try the Rockler.com website.
Posted 06 September 2009 - 03:29 PM
I looked at some ready made vacuum tables and some of them were pretty expensive. I already have a shop vac and the box the shop vac hooks up to can be built out of scrap pieces of plywood. The vacuum box I'm planning on will only be approximately one foot square. Just big enough for making molds of baits that can then be used for stencils.
Posted 06 September 2009 - 04:12 PM
Personally I love new threads. Please keep posting:yay:
Posted 06 September 2009 - 08:01 PM
what material do you plan on using to make the stencils with this vacuum box?
Posted 07 September 2009 - 01:32 AM
One site I checked into about building a vacuum forming table said they used Styrene or ABS. I haven't actually talked to a supplier yet, but I feel confident they can offer suggestions as well. I'm open to any ideas though.
Posted 07 September 2009 - 10:40 AM
Most of the shop built vacuum tables I'm familiar with were for veneering large pieces, like wood tabler tops. So they were large, generally a full 4X8 sheet of plywood as a base, 1X2 strips for the sides, and a grid of 1X2 inside to support the perforated top sheet of 1/4" tempered masonite peg board.
If you're making a smaller vacuum press, you might want to look at some of the expanded metal that readily available, which comes in lots of patterns, and has lots of holes.
Whatever you choose for a top layer, just remember to support it well, and evenly. Once you pump out the air and create a vacuum, there's a lot of pressure from the miles of atmosphere above us.
Posted 10 September 2009 - 04:35 PM
I'd rec'd styrene, less expensive and it contours nicely in a VF.
Posted 11 September 2009 - 01:31 PM
I went for the shrinktube this week; absolutely fantastic stuff!
Thanks for the tip!
Posted 12 September 2009 - 04:36 AM
Have you made any stencils out of the heat shrink tubing yet Jeep? Just wondering how well it holds it's shape after shrinking?
Posted 12 September 2009 - 05:12 AM
Yes I did. I bought some wide diameter transparent tube (3M - 55 mm). It was a bit of a challenge to find some.
This stuff is fantastic! I just put a blank in the tube and used a paint stripper-gun to slowly heat the tube. It shrinks nice and tight. When it is cooled down you can cut it open and remove the blank, what is left is a perfect 'shell' of your blank. On the head and tail section I have some 'leftover' wich I heated almost to melting and then using a pair of pliers welded that together. carved the pattern with an xacto knife, and it is almost the same as the thick plastic sheets I usually use. I used the shell for 8 baits so far and I think it will last a long time. When you heat-set your paint with a hairdryer the shell will become a bit more soft and is easy to remove without damaging the new paintjob.
I was thinking of better ways to make stencils and this is just that, thanks again!