56 replies to this topic
Posted 01 November 2009 - 01:08 AM
A-Mac, I totally agree. I have my new shopvac and I'm ready to go. Just got a couple of other projects standing in the way first.
Posted 01 November 2009 - 01:28 AM
Haha! Yeah, I just bought a small shopvac tonight. Its a 1.75hp (which is more hp than my mercury w/ a blown powerhead is putting out!)... I don't imagine it will take much to make it all work. I'm planning on keeping mine probabbly 1'X1' to cut down on plastic (maybe smaller). I'm going to try the pegboard trick shown in the video... it just looked too easy. I'm picking my plastic up on monday. Bad thing is, I have to drive 1.5hrs to buy 2 2x4 sheets for $7 (planning on showing up when the store opens so I have the rest of the day to play!). Oww well, thats part of being addicted to this stuff. If everything works out well, I'll try to upload some pics. My goal is to have something like RayburnGuy. His stuff just came out amazing looking! So hard to settle for less than perfect on the first try.
Posted 03 November 2009 - 09:08 PM
Ok. Mines built. I designed mine almost exactly like the you tube video... with the pegboard style top. I use thin foam to seal the solid board to the bottom and the peg board to the top... with the foam glued in place on the 2x4, i then screwed down the peg board and solid bottom board. I think this may have helped seal it better. Also, I used hot glue to seal the corners versus duct tape. However, I did use duct tape to cover up unnecessary holes on the peg board just in case I ever need a larger surface area. I used .020 pteg plastic sheeting... which was kind of hard to find. I traveled almost 1.5hrs to spend $7 on 2 2x4 sheets. Anyways, this is probably the coolest machine I've built for lure making. My stencils came out looking exactly like Rayburns. Its so cool... I wish the experience lasted more than a few seconds! The nice thing is, its very easy to do. Just watch the video. You will need a heat gun to touch it up, but that doesn't take much time.
Actually, the hardest part was convincing my girlfriend to let me stick a 2x4 frame with plastic in the oven. The process is so fast, I was done before she could quite bi 'in.
Posted 03 November 2009 - 09:21 PM
I hope you bought more than one sheet of plastic. It would suck to drive it again
Posted 04 November 2009 - 03:44 AM
Post a few pics, we all love pics here.
Edited by Vodkaman, 04 November 2009 - 03:45 AM.
Posted 04 November 2009 - 08:25 AM
will do. headin to the lake (530am here) for now. But yeah, I'll post some pics when I get back.
Posted 04 November 2009 - 01:01 PM
Just a thought but, what do you guys think about using the vacuumed forms for the scaling stencil.
This is what I am thinking...
1. Make the form or mold
2. Cut out the area to be covered by scales
3. Epoxy your mesh netting all around the plastic form (both sides)
4. Put together, around the blank, with the clamps or binder clips
Anyone got any thoughts?
Posted 04 November 2009 - 08:31 PM
Being a truck driver/salesman for pepsi I was wondering has anyone tried trimming a 2 liter bottle down and see if it would conform. I stack these all day long and today I started to looked at them in a different way.If this would work it would be easy and cheap material. I wonder if a milk jug would work also.
Posted 05 November 2009 - 02:09 PM
jamie i bet the 2 liter bottle would work great! I'm sure you could melt down the milk jug, but the 2 liter has the shape you need! You could basically have a nice rectangle if you cut the mid section out of the 2 liter... and staple this to a frame that I have shown in attachments. RECYCLING is fun!
Chromedog, your idea sounds pretty interesting too!
Posted 05 November 2009 - 03:17 PM
There is a tutorial in the tutorials section that uses milk jugs to make stencils.
Posted 05 November 2009 - 08:04 PM
Rayburn I was talking about trying to use these two types of materials for v-forming the stencil instead of buying them from a supplier.
Posted 06 November 2009 - 12:41 AM
Jamie I was just making a reference to the tutorial about making stencils out of plastic milk jugs. So the answer to your question about using these types of plastic would be yes.
Posted 06 November 2009 - 05:35 PM
Posted 06 November 2009 - 07:32 PM
Been trying to figure out a good stencil method ... and from what I've seen and read here I think I'm going to try the Vac Form method.
After watching the You-Tube video it looks straight forward enough. Going to build it this weekend.
Got a question for ya RayburnGuy ... do you have to place the styrene in the oven before forming? Or is there another method of heating it?
Posted 06 November 2009 - 08:07 PM
The thing that worked best for me was to put it in the oven. Keep in mind that you need to watch it closely as this only takes a few seconds. I actually used the broiler function instead of "bake mode". If you watch it you will notice the plastic will begin to sag. This is when you need to take it out and place it on your vacuum table. You will need something to hold the plastic in while you are heating it as well as when you place it on the vacuum table. If you don't hold the edges of the plastic it will tend to curl up on you and make a simple job difficult. The way I did this was to cut 2 plywood squares. Measure your vacuum box and then cut these squares large enough that you will have a 2 to 2 1/2 inch border around your vacuum table when you slip the jig holding the plastic down over it. You sandwich the plastic between the two plywood squares and hold them together with small bolts with wing nuts on them. Might have forgot to tell you to drill holes around the edge of the cutout, but you get the idea. All this does is hold the edges of the plastic while it's being heated and formed. You will need to make the cutout in the plywood squares a little larger than the size of your vacuum table so it can slide down over it. This does two things. It not only holds your plastic, but it gives enough weight to hold it in place while forming. You might want to place some wooden blocks on the side of your vacuum table so the frame will only go down so far. You will probably want to have a heat gun and some type of smooth edged tool handy. This is to help form the plastic around the very edges of your mold. Just depends on how tight a stencil your trying to make. If I can help with anything else feel free to ask. Once you get into it you will figure out what you need pretty quick.
Posted 11 November 2009 - 04:15 PM
If you know anyone that makes dentures for a living they can fix you up with a vaccum machine just the right size and can also show you the different material you can use. Maybe this will help someone.