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Mart

envirotex alternatives

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There Are Three That Come to mind right away. System Three has one called Clear Coat. Flex Coat has there rod finish. Thread Master rod finish has one that nonly needs to be turned for about an hour at 70 degs. The working time is a good twenty minutes on all of them. After you apply these you can heat them up with a flame to remove bubbles and level some what. They almost always need at least two coats. Nice finish by all of them though. All of them have uv control in them. Hope This Helps.

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Mart,

Read the "pvc and screw eye" thread.

Here's part of what I posted"

"The "Cone of Silence" was officially lifted by the maker who gave me the tip about this stuff, so here's the entire deal.

It's called SC 9000, from Target Coatings. We both use it.

Super-Clear 9000 Polyurethane

It's a waterborne urethane. It comes flat, semi gloss, and gloss.

I use the gloss and the flat.

It is listed as interior, but I've had no failures or problems with using it on lures, and now Dave's chimed in with his experiece in the salt, using the same stuff.

I dip my lures once every two hours, to put three coats on them. That equals about one coat of Etex in overall thickness.

Now, bear in mine that we both use PVC decking, which is very hard. I haven't tried it on a wood bait yet.

It is not sensitive to air exposure, so I let the excess drip back into the wide mouth jar I use for dipping. I actually left the lid off overnight accidentally, and there was no skin the next morning. I just try not to make bubbles in the jar before I dip, or I have to blow on them right away to get rid of them.

It cures out to full strength in 72 hours, but I fish lures I've made for myself after 24 hours.

I dip after I've put my final paint coat on, and heat set it, and let it set for an hour. So I can paint and finish a lure in two days, counting the time it takes for the rattle can primer to dry.

If I used a sealer like propionate, I could probably finish a lure in one day.

My only limitation is the amount of space I have over my workbench for drip drying.

It's almost fool proof, and I can't begin to tell you how much less stress I have from not worrying about turning, drips, and uncovered spots.

It has cut two days off my lure building process, and, if it stands up to the salty critters Dave's customer's catch, it'll stand up to muskies, too.

And it's perfect for refinishing plastic lures."

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@ Mart

Many lurebuilders in Germany use epoxy resin and hardener , there are a few suitable brands/types around .

I mailorder mine from a German tackle and component supplier , ...it's not that easy to mix(10:4 , resin:hardener) , but it sets pretty fast , so I do not neccessarely need a rotator(if utilizing one , you could take slower curing stuff , also your coats could be made thicker).

In Scandinavia some guys use floor clear paint or concrete laquer as a topcoat on lures , they'd thin it and dip the lures several times , ......I have some Finnish homemade lures coated that way , ......rock hard I can only say :yes::yay:!

On an Australian site I have heard for the first time about using modelling dope as a topcoat , so I have also tried it out .

It's available in every RC model shop and does not cost that much(at least over here) , no mixing required as it comes straight from the can(but may be thinned , if desired) .

Disadvantage is , that the coats come in quite thin and the stuff might dissolve and smear some paints underneath(at least felt pen ink) , so it's better to apply acrylic clear first to protect paint design and felt pen signature .

But the modelling dope coat cures pretty hard ,.... I apply it on my epoxy layers , as it still cures a little harder .

greetz , diemai:yay:

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I am going to try out some of these 9000 and 9300 products. I really dont like the solvents in the DNLC type prodcuts.

Great news though these items are less than $70.00 shipper per gallon.

I am going to try this out on larger lures, 3oz, and need a gallon or so to work with. I think I will pour it in to a glass or pvc tube though for dipping

thanks guys

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I am going to try out some of these 9000 and 9300 products. I really dont like the solvents in the DNLC type prodcuts.

Great news though these items are less than $70.00 shipper per gallon.

I am going to try this out on larger lures, 3oz, and need a gallon or so to work with. I think I will pour it in to a glass or pvc tube though for dipping

thanks guys

Just find tall narrow jars i.e. an olive jar, and you'll be able to get away with qts. A qt of topcoat is a lot of lures. A gallon means you're into mass production or you're working off a "Honey DO List."

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EMTECH 9300 Urethane Top Coat: FinishingZone.com, by Target Coatings Inc.

Mark, wondering why you use the "interior" 9000 versus the "interior/exterior" 9300 above?

Bob,

That is what was recommended to me originally, and it's worked out fine.

"If it ain't broke, don't fix it".

I suppose the ext. might be even more durable, but I haven't needed to try it, because the int. works so well.

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Thanks littleriver. I had seen your original post.

I have been using System Three's Clear Coat epoxy, which I am happy with. But, as is typical of the epoxies, it tends to "slide" away from the sharper edges on some lures. This is the reason that I would like one of the other alternatives. It sounds like the urethane type products are the best for this.

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Wayne, if you are referring to the EM9300, Target Coatings' MSDS reads "Prolonged (inhalation) exposure may produce headaches and mucous membrane irritation." It suggests that a full-faced respirator is "advised" in poorly ventilated areas. It also states that the product doesn't contain extremely hazardous or toxic substances.

From that, it would seem that dipping a few lures would not be killer. Of course the wearing of a mask is usually the prudent thing to do, especially for people that are sensitive to this sort of thing.

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Yes, I saw that warning as well. That, to me, implies that the product cannot stand up to near continual water contact. Being as its an exterior product, it would likely hold up in a 1 or 2 day constant rain??

 

Above, mark poulson mentioned that he uses that same company's interior grade product without problems. I believe there are others who have used "non-waterproof" products successfully as well.

 

Like we all are, I'm just trying to find the grail of topcoats. Still love to hear anyone's input. Perhaps I will be the guinea pig on this one?!?

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