Sign in to follow this  
Followers 0
BassNator 1

New Carved Poplar Lure

8 posts in this topic

Well guys I copied out the design BlackJack left us for the D-Bait and carved my lure out of Poplar. Are we getting tired of hearing about that bait yet? :lol: I have a lip placed in there for the time being that I cut. I dont believe I used Lexan, (had a scrap of plexiglas laying around so I used that) I put in the line tie screw eye at the front and tried to go through the slot for the screw eye in the plexiglas but it was not large enough.. ( I also thought that with the started cut slot that it would largen itself) Well the bad news is it cracked. So I have to cut more of them out USING THE RIGHT STUFF!! Now Im gonna post 2 pictures of my lure carved cause I need some more explanation. The back end of the lure, Do you round it off or leave it straight? I rounded it off a little on the bottom but left it straight on the top. It is almost like an oval... ???? I dunno and Im stuck on this part. SO HELP ME PLEASE!!! What are most of you guys doing? for the most part, it is a flat bait I know that, but I also notice a little rounding off of the tail part. That was what my previous question was all about. MAYBE if any of you guys have a picture of a flat lure with a back end showing, I could get a good idea. Thanks Cody

a>

a>

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

BassNator 1,

I was just wondering why you went with the screw eyes instead of wire? I know the D baits use copper wire.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Cody leave the back part of the bait flat, no need to round it over. The bait looks great. Only problem I see is that the belly hook hanger seems to be set to far back towards the tail. I would move it to the lowest part of the belly

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The bait dont look bad. good work so far.

as to rounding the tail, I leave a flat on the tail @ the diameter of a pencil eraser, you could totally round it over if you want but I find a small flat helps me predrill for hardware.

if your gonna go with screw eyes, always predrill & those pictured will need screwed in farther.

as to plexiglass,..... avoid it, its acrylic & brittle & will crack easily. Go with Lexan (polycarbonate)

if your putting screweyes thru your lexan lip, predrill the lexan also.

Epoxy in the pilot holes before the hardware helps tremendously.

hope that helps

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hey Hughesy, I bought like 100 screw eyes from Stamina that were inexpensive by volume, so thats why I used that. Unfortunately I really know nothing about that bait but I liked the design and idea, plus it kind of looked easy! I really didnt know they used copper wire I never saw one before. Also since BlackJack spelled it out for us, I thought I would give it a try. When I run out of the screw eyes I will give the wire a try for sure, Chip makes it look pretty easy and explains it well enough that I could pull it off well myself Im sure. If I knew then what I know now... I would have saved some money, bought wire and not the screw eyes! Hey Black Jack, I think I might have gotten confused on the plans... :?: I dunno? and I read them over like 5 times. Readin n rithmitic n geeImatree were not my strong points in skool. LOL! The perfect spot for the belly screw eye would be ALMOST at the second red line then..?? I know Im wrong with that but according to the plans you said put the belly weight there, which I did. I ran my screw eye at the first green line, the one thats perpendicular to the back screw eye, on my copy and paste on it... I matched it pretty darn close. I mean I cut it out of paper, traced all the lines on and followed that to ALMOST A TEE! Now with that being said, and your critique on it... I see what your saying... MAYBE what I could have done then is put it closer to the red line where the belly weight is and run the screw eye on more of an angle to the back? I believe I could have gone maybe a few centimeters closer to the belly and definitely more of an angle with the screw going in more towards the tail. At least now that I measure it up a little thats what it looks like to me. ?? NEXT TIME!!! But again... these are the first baits Ive ever carved, I feel like Im getting the hang of it, having fun making them and enjoying you guys helping me out! Funny thing is though..... I have now 3 of these lures done... plus the others I posted the other day and 2 primed but I havent painted any yet. Except the ones I gave out at Christmas! :D I got to get a move on..... Spring is approaching! LOL Thanks for the help guys. Cody

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Cody the second red line is the spot. It is not to late though just remove the screw eye and screw it into the weight(predrill of course and that will do it. Like I said you did a great job shaping the bait!!!!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks Black Jack & Red G8R. Thanks for the critique and the pointers.... I Appreciate it. Red G8r as far as "rounding the tail" I like to keep the back portion flat as well. I was asking about the sides and tops of the tail to make it more round. Mine in the pic.. and its not a good one shows my tail is oval in shape from the tops and sides. I have a few Poes Lures and I love them. If you are familiar with them, they too are flat on the end for the hardware, but the sides are rounded and filed down quite a bit. Granted they are not flat style lures, but what I have gotten out of this post and forum here, (and thanks Black Jack) is If its flat... you can keep it flat and just use basicly a router for the sides. BUT... you can round it and shape it as well. I posted before and I think I said Ive OVER worked my baits! Anyway Red G8r all your other tips are right on and I do do them. I leave my screw eyes out like that for the painting so I have something to grab onto them with the paint holders! and the dryer. I use an epoxy bond to glue the lip in place and when I mix it up I also use it for the screw eyes and I put a dab into the hole and screw em in all the way! Since I got my ATTA BOY,,, im ok! lol ( You guys Have taught some of us well oh Master Jedi's of the Lure Makers) Black Jacks post before also had a lip design that I copied and it included a slot for the screw eye to go through, I miscalculated my cut and didnt make the slot large enough for the screw eye, thats why it cracked. I like the pre drilled idea as well... one less cut on the saw. Come to think of it, Im glad the lip cracked now, cause I would have most likely used that cheap stuff (since Im cheap) and paid the price later. I would be real po'd at myself if I was fishing and I cracked it on a stump. :huh: So I will get the Lexan! Now Black Jack, just so I understand this right.... am I getting it that that Red line is the line for the Belly weight AND the screw eye?? That should just about clarify everything for me from here on out for that one and for future baits. (I THINK) Again I appreciate the help as I learn the ways of the "Force" from you guys the "MASTER JEDI LURE MAKERS"!! MAY THE LURES BE WITH YOU! :P Cody

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Cody you have it right. The 2nd red line form the front of the bait is for the weight and hook hanger.When I came up with this type of diagram I did it so I could use it to duplicate a bait exactly. Alot of trial and error went into the making of the diagram. Experimentation is key when you are trying something new. Basically if you use a similar diagram for your baits. They will all be as consistent as a hand crafted bait can be. Here is another trick I use. When I have designed (or copied as in this case) a winner I take the diagram and laminate it and cut it out. I then can use it over and over for the template of the bait and to mark where everything is supposed to be(ie lip slot belly weight hook hangers, etc) I have a whole drawer full of the templates for all kinds of baits. It is also useful to aid in making stencils for spraying your patterns

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!


Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.


Sign In Now
Sign in to follow this  
Followers 0