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Clearcoating issues

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#21 baitmaker2



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Posted 16 October 2009 - 01:46 AM

Mix in a disposable plastic cup with a plastic paintbrush handle. Mix in a circular motion scraping the sides and bottom to assure all gets in the mix. Try to stir in only one direction and never stir briskly. Mix for at least 30 seconds. Blow your breath into the plastic cup after mixing until the majority of the bubbles have disapated and lightly blow on the bait after applying the epoxy just prior to putting on the drying wheel. I apply my epoxy with a epoxy brush I buy from a local craft store.

I think a lot of the problems associated with epoxy is that you try to paint it on like painting a wall. The best way I have discovered to apply epoxy is to really put it on heavy starting at the front of the bait and continuing to the tail. I then take another "dry" brush and continue to brush from front to back and wiping excess on a paper towel always making sure that you don't remove too much expoxy.

I also only mix enough epoxy to cover 2 baits maximum at a time. You can determine the amount it takes to do this in short order and mark the plastic syringe in appropriate increments to take away some of the guess work. Another thing I do after putting the epoxy in the bottom of the plastic cup and before I begin to stir is to put 4 or 5 drops of denatured alcohol into the cup with the epoxy.

Never touch a bait with bare hands prior to applying epoxy. Always wipe baits off with a clean cloth before starting to clear coat. Never try to apply epoxy in a cold enviroment. Best working temp I have found is 70 to 75 degrees. I always apply epoxy underneath a strong bench light so I can see any thin coverage spots on the bait before putting on the wheel.

#22 Lure--Prof


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Posted 16 October 2009 - 07:59 AM

Hello Baitmaker!
Your advice,

Try to stir in only one direction and never stir briskly. Mix for at least 30 seconds.

and tips work for Devcon 2-ton and other quick cure epoxies, but Envirotex-Lite will simply never get mixed unless it is mixed briskly, especially in the larger quantities in which E-tex is normally mixed, because of its much longer pot life, which allows one to coat several lures at a time. E-Tex's own instructions advise that their product should be whipped, and with the longer mixing time required it is easy to end up with an even distribution of very fine bubbles after thorough mixing that can be quite frustrating to get rid of...much easier not produce any to begin with. My method of using the round wire on the concave can bottom worked so well with E-tex that I began using it for all of my epoxies, including for small amounts of bubble-free 2-ton for gluing lips. Because the mixing tool matches the shape of the mixing surface, the chances of leaving any epoxy unmixed is greatly reduced. Total clean-up is quick and easy, and there is no more buying of cups just to throw away. (think green!)

Good fishing,

#23 baitmaker2



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Posted 16 October 2009 - 07:05 PM

I was referring to Devcon 2t epoxy. I haven't used the Evirotex in years simply because of the bubble issue and from my experience it didn't seem to get as hard as the Devcon and took too long to cure.

For a beautiful clear coat on a lure there is nothing that I have tried that equals Devcon 2t. You can take an average paint job and make a masterpiece with the depth you get with the 2t.

There are other alternatives but the 2t epoxy is the toughest and best looking I have personally had experience with. Clear lacquer provides a durable clear coat but you have to be careful with bubbling water based paints and the odor is unbearable.

There is a new product I have started to experiment with from Target Coatings which is a waterbased urethane. It is easy to apply by dipping and it appears to be similar to Evirotex but I haven't put it to the torture text yet so I am witholding my endorsements. It also doesn't appear to have the depth beauty of Devcon 2t.