Vodkaman

Vman rocking beam duplicator

41 posts in this topic

The one thing is you would need to experiment on the angle to get the cut to disappear. But that is your specialty.

exactly, sorry kelly you beat me to post, or I would've quoted you earlier.

What are the RPM your grinder is running at?

Mine is standard 11,000... they do vary, even on models without various speed.

Just double check the blade tolerance.

Couldnt agree more and emphasize that. All I thought about while running mine was the possibility of the carbide teeth separating from the blade 8O

BTW, this is a doable & proven method. I've seen large versions used for duplicating wooden aircraft propellers, Lee Sissons machine is similar, and I'd venture to say Rapala's is similar, although I couldnt see all the guts of the machine from the video LaPala so generously posted.

I think alot of people could learn the concept and make thier own version, but its nearly impossible to design this jig for everyone to build. I scrapped countless hours and parts from the home improvement stores trying to stick to an "easy and available" list of parts, but its tough for sure.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Kelly and Redg8r, you both suggested angling of the cutter (roll). This surprised me, as I thought that this would load the cutter, as I stated in my previous post. After re-evaluating, I realize that I was wrong. I will try to find a solution for a roll adjustor for the beam and do some experiments.

The grinder spins at 12,000 and the 4

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Kelly and Redg8r, you both suggested angling of the cutter (roll). This surprised me, as I thought that this would load the cutter, as I stated in my previous post. After re-evaluating, I realize that I was wrong. I will try to find a solution for a roll adjustor for the beam and do some experiments.

Just to be clear about what i did, picture your miter/chop saw, it plunges up and down, now picture setting the miter degree to 3 to 5 degrees in the direction of the cut. (do the tracer to so they match)

I will try to find a speed controller, but I am not looking forward to shopping for that, as it will stretch the limitations of my hand signals (language problems). The loss of torque is disappointing news too.
This is the one I used, maybe a picture will help your search:

- Harbor Freight Tools - Quality Tools at the Lowest Prices

My initial concept was to come up with a design that others could build. However, design is a huge responsibility and I am not sure I would be able to sleep at night, knowing friends are risking life and limb with such a design.

Very well said. Edited by redg8r

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Jerry, yes I understand. My table saw has the angle adjustment also.

Thanks for the link, however I do not want to order online. I would say 20 - 30% of mail does not get through. I will try to source the speed controller locally, if not available, I will build one myself. Lots of suitable circuits on the web. Just scary switching it on the first time (rubber gloves).

Dave

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I thought I would bring you an update.

Regarding the poor 'steppy' finish, I have decided to use stepper motors to drive the spindles, one for each, three motors in all.

There are several advantages to this system, first off, I can get rid of the chain and sprockets, as the motors will be coordinated by electronics. This eliminates any slop, which was not a major problem, but did exist.

With the chain/sprocket system I was limited to a 2:1 ratio, giving 30 cuts per inch on a 15tpi thread. With the stepper motors, I can program in a much finer pitch, even as fine as 3000 cuts per inch. This would not be practical, as it would take 75 minutes to cut a 3" body. I have settled on 150 cuts per inch, with a time of 3.75 minutes. 150 cuts is a vast improvement on the 30 cuts per inch of the chain/sprocket setup and should give the finish that I am looking for, but still using the cheap saw cutter.

This new drive system will also eliminate the spiral effect of the cuts, as one complete cut is made, then the main screw advances 1/10th of a revolution, then the next cut is made.

I am also able to program in a slow cut (1/10th normal speed) for the first cut, as this cut removes the most material. This speed change will happen automatically.

Micro switches will automatically stop the machine at the end of a run and automatically set the direction. So it will be just a case of lowering the cutter into the stock and pressing a button to start the cycle.

The disadvantage is that 3 motors is more expense. But the main problem is designing and building the electronic circuits. Fortunately, I used to do hobby electronics many years ago, but my eyes have deteriorated considerably since those days and I keep soldering my fingers together.

I have completed all the schematic drawings (9 circuits in all) and half the strip board layouts. I have started building the circuits, but have had to spend many hours working out the bugs. I can see this is going to take at least another couple of weeks or even longer, as you have to be in the right frame of mind for this tedious stuff.

Once the prototype is done, I can get printed circuit boards made here quite cheap, so subsequent builds should go a lot smoother. Also I need to re-design the duplicator box to suit this design change.

As a spin-off of the independent motor drives, I can control the rotations of the individual stock and stylus motors and achieve a spiral effect (that I accidentally stumbled across earlier).

That is all I can think of for now.

Dave

Edited by Vodkaman

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks Clemmy.

Safety is right up there on my list. I will be totally enclosing the business end. If I can find some thick polycarb, then great, but visibility is not required, once the thing is working. The only time the cutter will be open is for video and then I will be standing well back. The object is hands free automation, press the go button and wait for it to stop automatically.

If anyone other than myself is to operate the machine, then the shield will be micro switch protected. Pointless for my own use though. The additional circuit is already designed and easily installed.

Dave

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Sorry Chris, I have done absolutely nothing for months now. I have been bogged down with other stuff. Might be getting back to it soon, but cannot say when. I will report any progress.

Dave

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Dave I gave up on 3d. Got any wireframe outlines of what you sent me before?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1UTCL2l6PwM&feature=player_embedded

[quote name=Vodkaman' timestamp='1277879845' post

='148796]

Sorry Chris, I have done absolutely nothing for months now. I have been bogged down with other stuff. Might be getting back to it soon, but cannot say when. I will report any progress.

Dave

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Dave I gave up on 3d. Got any wireframe outlines of what you sent me before?

Scott, very cool machine.

Sorry the 3D did not work out. I have emailed you a DXF file, also a PDF showing the profile with a few dimensions. You can change any of the dimensions (well, I can) to what you want. Might as well make something that you want.

Dave

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Got it thanks I'll try it today!

Scott, very cool machine.

Sorry the 3D did not work out. I have emailed you a DXF file, also a PDF showing the profile with a few dimensions. You can change any of the dimensions (well, I can) to what you want. Might as well make something that you want.

Dave

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Sorry to bring up this old thread..

 

I would love to make this rocking beam dupicator.  Can someone PM me the specs, detailed pics and blueprints and parts list?  Or if anyone has any other ideas on duplicating a bass plug ( like a bagleys B2 or Bombers ) I'd like to try to build one.  Any help would be greatly appreciated.   Thanks!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I don't think your going to find any blueprints as that would entail liability issues. Some of these machines are quite dangerous and could cause serious injuries. Most of the guys I know that built these duplicators did so for their own use. There has been a lot of discussion about these machines and not all of them use the same procedures. It might take a good bit of searching, but I think you'll find enough info on them in the archives that you could put one together.

 

good luck,

Ben

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks Ben..  I know they are dangerous.. I would mainly just like to have more pictures of his machine, and maybe some measurements.  I actually have a machine drawn out on paper but want to look at others to make sure i am doing it correctly so i dont waste time and money on a redo. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

There's a video on YouTube of one that Jerry (redg8tor) built. At least I think there is. It gives some pretty good views of it in action. Unfortunately Jerry is recuperating and Dave (Vodkaman) is having connection problems and hasn't been online in a while. Those are the two guys who have built machines that I've seen in operation. Wish I could be of more help, but that's the best I can do.

 

Ben

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!


Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.


Sign In Now