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Pedator Baits Lucky Craft Pointer 100 Knockoff Tuning/Tinkering
23 replies to this topic
Posted 16 October 2009 - 10:18 PM
I recently bought some unpainted jerkbait bodies from Predator Baits and i was wondering if anyone here (or predator himself if you read this) has messed with the tuning of the LC pointer 100 knockoffs? Like most of the fisherman here i will be using them in water temps between 40-50ish. If you have bought/used these i would like to here your thoughts/comments/opinions on these blanks and also if you got them to suspend properly with what size hooks, split rings and other variables that go into the weighting of the bait. Thanks in advance for any help on this subject.
Posted 17 October 2009 - 05:30 PM
I just got some too. Great looking baits but they do sink a little too fast. I'm using #6hooks and #2split rings with two dips in DN. Going to try drilling into the ballast weight and just dipping once in DN. I'll post results after I get to the lake.
Posted 19 October 2009 - 09:33 AM
I painted one in a ghost bluegill pattern and just put it in a bucket of water yesterday. Used light paint and spayed a light clear coat. Used number 6 round bend Gammies and super small split rings. I think they are a number 1 spit ring. I still couldn't get it to suspend although the water I have is in the 70's. It slowly sank, which may be alright. Same problem(?) I've had with the Janns Pointer 100 knock offs.
Posted 20 October 2009 - 01:19 AM
might suspend fine at 55. Obviously try smaller rings, and short shank or lighter wire trebles are something I don't hear mentioned a lot if you don't want to go down in hook size. A small amount of weight can make a significant difference. Water temp makes a difference too. It also seems like different baits are affected differently by temp.......some seem to have the opposite effect than others, as if some baits compress and expand more than others.
You really never know until you get the bait in the water at different temps.
Posted 20 October 2009 - 01:31 AM
This is more of a question than an answer. If it's a smooth bodied bait and the wall thickness of the bait is thick enough could you possibly make it thinner by sanding thus making the bait lighter?
Posted 20 October 2009 - 05:00 AM
NAAAAAARRRRRR Rookie, they are made of plastic, china lures would sink like a brick.pete
Edited by hazmail, 20 October 2009 - 05:02 AM.
Posted 20 October 2009 - 07:03 AM
It's not lighter that your'e looking for, it's less dense. If the plastic that the lure is made of is more dense than water, then sanding some off will make the lure have a tendency to float more. If it's less dense, then you're removing buoyancy by sanding some off.
Might weaken the bait too much though, so be careful
Posted 20 October 2009 - 05:54 PM
[quote name='clamboni']It's not lighter that your'e looking for, it's less dense. If the plastic that the lure is made of is more dense than water, then sanding some off will make the lure have a tendency to float more. If it's less dense, then you're removing buoyancy by sanding some off.
Might weaken the bait too much though, so be careful[/quote
I thought the problem was that the baits weren't buoyant enough and were slowly sinking. Whether or not the plastic is more or less dense than water it is certainly not lighter than the air inside the bait. Taking away a small amount of the plastic would alter the weight ratio between the plastic and the amount of air trapped inside the bait and in turn alter the weight of the bait versus the water it displaces. But that's just my opinion as I don't have any degrees in engineering.
Posted 20 October 2009 - 06:13 PM
Sanding won't get it. I drilled an 1/8" hole in the front of the ballast weight and my finished one still sinks. Next up a second hole. I'll post results.
Posted 21 October 2009 - 02:47 PM
you're right.....either way you're decreasing the total density. wasn't thinking when I posted that
Posted 21 October 2009 - 08:28 PM
I bought some jerkbaits that were identical to Lucky Craft, except that the weight wasn't right. The baits stood on their nose and dove for the bottom. I fixed them by carefully cutting out the brass weight in the belly, reducing it by 1/3, and replacing it. Then custom paint job etc. By the time I repaired the bodies, painted, & clearcoated you could hardly tell they had been modified, except they now work correctly. Suspend in a slight nose down configuration.
Posted 21 October 2009 - 10:11 PM
There is a website that sells knockoffs of the Lucky Craft Pointer that I believe sells the baits unglued. That way you can install as much or as little weight as you want before gluing the two halves together. He advertises on this site. Just wanted to make sure it was OK to post the link to his site. So would that be OK?
Posted 25 October 2009 - 11:08 AM
Here's what works for me. Drill an 1/8th in hole in the front of the ballast weight all the way through the lead, then a second hole just behind the first most of the way through. Plug and fill holes. I finished with one coat of DN dipped and #2split rings with #6 trebles. Bait stays horizontal and sinks very slowly.
Posted 25 October 2009 - 06:51 PM
BobV are u using the same predatorbassbaits pointer knockoff when u do this? Also what do u use to plug the hole up with?
Posted 26 October 2009 - 12:56 PM
Yes, these are from Predator baits. If you drill most of the way through just fill them with epoxy, if you go all the way through fill with a little silicone and finish with epoxy. Make sure you cover the silicone with epoxy or paint won't stick to it.
Posted 26 October 2009 - 02:56 PM
bobv, so let me get this straight. Drill through the plastic and through the lead weight once. Then drill a second hole through the plastic and most of the way through the lead? Also if i go all the way through what i have to use silicon? Sorry if these questions seem stupid i have never done this stuff before. Thanks for your help bobv.
Posted 26 October 2009 - 03:45 PM
You are correct on the drilling part. Use silicone or some thing to fill in most of the hole or the epoxy will run into the lure body. I had to use some on one bait on both holes as there was a slight gap between the ballast and the plastic. I suppose you could use any type of filler as the epoxy will seal it. Probably should wait for the filler to cure before using the epoxy.
Posted 26 October 2009 - 06:02 PM
thanks bobv u have been a tremendous help. i am trying to find a cheap scale so that i can weigh these things as i have 10 of them and want to get them all to be the same weight. Ill get one to work perfect and then work off of that. Ill weigh it after drilling and then again with all the hooks, paint, etc on it. I will post back with my results when i get everything done.
Posted 26 October 2009 - 09:39 PM
I think you will have to reduce the amount of ballast to get them to float or suspend. By the time you patch a hole drilled in plastic, you're adding the weight back again. If you reduced the size of the trebles, minimized the weight of the finish and it still sinks, I'd drill out the ballast and replace it with smaller ball bearings or shot - or return it as a defective. Colder water is more dense and makes baits float more easily.