mowigglewart

Pedator Baits Lucky Craft Pointer 100 Knockoff Tuning/Tinkering

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I recently bought some unpainted jerkbait bodies from Predator Baits and i was wondering if anyone here (or predator himself if you read this) has messed with the tuning of the LC pointer 100 knockoffs? Like most of the fisherman here i will be using them in water temps between 40-50ish. If you have bought/used these i would like to here your thoughts/comments/opinions on these blanks and also if you got them to suspend properly with what size hooks, split rings and other variables that go into the weighting of the bait. Thanks in advance for any help on this subject.

-Brett

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I just got some too. Great looking baits but they do sink a little too fast. I'm using #6hooks and #2split rings with two dips in DN. Going to try drilling into the ballast weight and just dipping once in DN. I'll post results after I get to the lake.

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I painted one in a ghost bluegill pattern and just put it in a bucket of water yesterday. Used light paint and spayed a light clear coat. Used number 6 round bend Gammies and super small split rings. I think they are a number 1 spit ring. I still couldn't get it to suspend although the water I have is in the 70's. It slowly sank, which may be alright. Same problem(?) I've had with the Janns Pointer 100 knock offs.

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might suspend fine at 55. Obviously try smaller rings, and short shank or lighter wire trebles are something I don't hear mentioned a lot if you don't want to go down in hook size. A small amount of weight can make a significant difference. Water temp makes a difference too. It also seems like different baits are affected differently by temp.......some seem to have the opposite effect than others, as if some baits compress and expand more than others.

You really never know until you get the bait in the water at different temps.

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This is more of a question than an answer. If it's a smooth bodied bait and the wall thickness of the bait is thick enough could you possibly make it thinner by sanding thus making the bait lighter? :?

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That's China FOR YOU! :lol:

NAAAAAARRRRRR Rookie, they are made of plastic, china lures would sink like a brick.pete

Edited by hazmail

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This is more of a question than an answer. If it's a smooth bodied bait and the wall thickness of the bait is thick enough could you possibly make it thinner by sanding thus making the bait lighter? :?

It's not lighter that your'e looking for, it's less dense. If the plastic that the lure is made of is more dense than water, then sanding some off will make the lure have a tendency to float more. If it's less dense, then you're removing buoyancy by sanding some off.

Might weaken the bait too much though, so be careful

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It's not lighter that your'e looking for, it's less dense. If the plastic that the lure is made of is more dense than water, then sanding some off will make the lure have a tendency to float more. If it's less dense, then you're removing buoyancy by sanding some off.

Might weaken the bait too much though, so be careful[/quote

I thought the problem was that the baits weren't buoyant enough and were slowly sinking. Whether or not the plastic is more or less dense than water it is certainly not lighter than the air inside the bait. Taking away a small amount of the plastic would alter the weight ratio between the plastic and the amount of air trapped inside the bait and in turn alter the weight of the bait versus the water it displaces. But that's just my opinion as I don't have any degrees in engineering.

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Sanding won't get it. I drilled an 1/8" hole in the front of the ballast weight and my finished one still sinks. Next up a second hole. I'll post results.

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It's not lighter that your'e looking for' date=' it's less dense. If the plastic that the lure is made of is more dense than water, then sanding some off will make the lure have a tendency to float more. If it's less dense, then you're removing buoyancy by sanding some off.

Might weaken the bait too much though, so be careful[/quote

I thought the problem was that the baits weren't buoyant enough and were slowly sinking. Whether or not the plastic is more or less dense than water it is certainly not lighter than the air inside the bait. Taking away a small amount of the plastic would alter the weight ratio between the plastic and the amount of air trapped inside the bait and in turn alter the weight of the bait versus the water it displaces. But that's just my opinion as I don't have any degrees in engineering.[/quote']

you're right.....either way you're decreasing the total density. wasn't thinking when I posted that

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I bought some jerkbaits that were identical to Lucky Craft, except that the weight wasn't right. The baits stood on their nose and dove for the bottom. I fixed them by carefully cutting out the brass weight in the belly, reducing it by 1/3, and replacing it. Then custom paint job etc. By the time I repaired the bodies, painted, & clearcoated you could hardly tell they had been modified, except they now work correctly. Suspend in a slight nose down configuration.

Tony

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There is a website that sells knockoffs of the Lucky Craft Pointer that I believe sells the baits unglued. That way you can install as much or as little weight as you want before gluing the two halves together. He advertises on this site. Just wanted to make sure it was OK to post the link to his site. So would that be OK?

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Here's what works for me. Drill an 1/8th in hole in the front of the ballast weight all the way through the lead, then a second hole just behind the first most of the way through. Plug and fill holes. I finished with one coat of DN dipped and #2split rings with #6 trebles. Bait stays horizontal and sinks very slowly.

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Yes, these are from Predator baits. If you drill most of the way through just fill them with epoxy, if you go all the way through fill with a little silicone and finish with epoxy. Make sure you cover the silicone with epoxy or paint won't stick to it.

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bobv, so let me get this straight. Drill through the plastic and through the lead weight once. Then drill a second hole through the plastic and most of the way through the lead? Also if i go all the way through what i have to use silicon? Sorry if these questions seem stupid i have never done this stuff before. Thanks for your help bobv.

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You are correct on the drilling part. Use silicone or some thing to fill in most of the hole or the epoxy will run into the lure body. I had to use some on one bait on both holes as there was a slight gap between the ballast and the plastic. I suppose you could use any type of filler as the epoxy will seal it. Probably should wait for the filler to cure before using the epoxy.

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thanks bobv u have been a tremendous help. i am trying to find a cheap scale so that i can weigh these things as i have 10 of them and want to get them all to be the same weight. Ill get one to work perfect and then work off of that. Ill weigh it after drilling and then again with all the hooks, paint, etc on it. I will post back with my results when i get everything done.

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I think you will have to reduce the amount of ballast to get them to float or suspend. By the time you patch a hole drilled in plastic, you're adding the weight back again. If you reduced the size of the trebles, minimized the weight of the finish and it still sinks, I'd drill out the ballast and replace it with smaller ball bearings or shot - or return it as a defective. Colder water is more dense and makes baits float more easily.

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I am drilling through the plastic into the lead belly weight. So the epoxy filler is much lighter than the lead. I have already down sized all the hardware as far as I want at this point.

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Has anyone actually tried contacting lucky craft about getting unpainted baits w/out hooks? I figure if you could get some pointers in bulk (not sure what bulk means to LC), you might be able to get a decent deal on them. If you figure that maybe you could get the LCs for 5 bucks apiece (which can add up fast if its bulk) it would save you all the trouble of tinkering w/ knock offs... plus, you can actually say it is a LC. I've tried janns baits, about 50% of the 78s work... after using suspend strips! I have yet to have the larger knockoff work. So if you add up all the time you spend giving it that awesome one of a kind paint work and clearing just to have a bait suck (or needs an ugly suspend strip slapped on it) I figure its worth the few more bucks of having the tried and true real deal.

Hmmm... tried going to LCs website. I just got my computer and it says I need some "plug ins" installed. I'll see if I can contact them about such an order and relay back.

BTW, I'm totally not bashing Predator Baits w/ this. I haven't used his lures. All the business I've had with him so far has been excellent and products have been good quality... especially for the price. As for janns, well... I got what I paid for.

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Sent LC an e-mail... which wasn't exactly easy to find. I'll let you guys know if I find something.

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Best bet on LC's is to watch the big retailers (Cabelas esp, at least here in KCK) for clearance on colors. Have picked up a bunch of 78's, 100's, Slenders for money in the $7-$10 range. Sand 'em, paint 'em, and save your time jacking with the knock-offs.

Even with factory LC's, Rogues, etc., you will get some baits that simply vary from what you might perceive as perfect flotation. Gives you a good excuse to buy 6 of each color ;). Good example, although non-suspending, are the Cordell jointed redfins, about 1 of 8 of which will actually wake right.

The knock-offs are what they are...good pond baits, small lake baits. Save the real things for the real days.

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