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Help for first timer painting a swimbait...

7 posts in this topic

Well I painted my first lure last night and it went great until it was sealant time. I was practicing so lesson learned. But I have a couple of questions if anyone could help me out.

1) How do I keep the paint/epoxy out of the joints between the sections. My first bait came out great but got epoxy in the hinges and that means bait is a practice bait now. :nuhuh:

2) Do you have to constantly rotate the bait while the epoxy is drying?

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I think it's easier to assemble a bait after it's topcoated but you can still get epoxy in the joint while gluing the bait together. It depends on what style joint you used - I use interlocking screw eyes so I chuck a very small diameter drill bit in a Dremel and use it to remove the excess epoxy. You can also use a piece of straight stainless wire for this.

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how do you close your open screw eyes you use for interlocking? I've had trouble doing this with swimbait joints and gave up on the idea.

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like bob p, i topcoat my multi-section baits before assembly. but these are baits that i have made, so i do this before final assembly. i'm not quite sure how possible this would be with a store bought blank.

what i'd do is just top coat it, one section at a time of course, and take care not to get epoxy on the hinges. since its a plastic bait, you could get away with just not putting epoxy immediately around the hinge eyes.

in the event that epoxy does get into the hinge eyes, i'd take a 1/32" dremel high speed cutter and clear the epoxy out of there.

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I use hand made interlocking "screw eyes" that are permanently closed and can't be squeezed shut. I install them in one segment of the bait, clearcoat the bait, then join the segments as a last step. When first installing a screw eye pair, I intentionally get epoxy in the joint so it will stick straight out after the epoxy cures. That keeps the screw eyes from flopping around on the bait when I clearcoat it. I clean the epoxy out of the joint with a Dremel before assembling the bait.

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When I was still using epoxy, I'd coat the insides of the joint sections with D2T first, lapping it onto the face about 1/4" for a good bond, and let it set up. As long as I didn't put it on too thick, it didn't sag.

Then I'd assemble the lure, put it on the drying wheel, and coat the faces with Nu Lustre 55.

One coat of D2T in the joints is plenty of protection, and two coats of Nu Lustre 55 or Etex on the faces is plenty there.

Edited by mark poulson

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