Jump to content
Want To Build A New Drying Rack..
8 replies to this topic
Posted 03 November 2009 - 06:13 PM
I saw on another site the use of pillow bearings. Looked real sturdy. My question is how to adapt a 3/4" od pipe to a square stock from a rotisiere motor to drive the thing. I am at a loss, do not know the terminology of what's needed. There must be a couple of people here that can describe items or point me to a catalog. Many thanks.....miles to go before I sleep...
Posted 03 November 2009 - 11:34 PM
You didn't say whether your pipe was metal or plastic. If it's plastic you can get an end cap for it and drill a hole that's just a little smaller than the width of the square end of your rotisserie. Then take a piece of square key stock the same size as the output shaft on the rotisserie and heat it just hot enough to slowly melt it's way through the round hole. Not so hot that it will leave you with a puddle of melted plastic. Just hot enough to push it's way through the hole. If your pipe is metal the procedure is pretty much the same. You will still drill a hole through the metal end cap and you will still need to push the key stock through the hole. Only this time the metal end cap will have to be heated cherry red and a vise or something sturdy to hold the end cap while you beat the key stock through. You will need a torch or some other heat source that's hot enough to do this. Hope this helps.
Edited by RayburnGuy, 03 November 2009 - 11:35 PM.
Posted 04 November 2009 - 12:32 AM
Welding would be my first choice but jb weld or epoxy would work fine
Posted 04 November 2009 - 10:36 AM
Seems he used a 5/8" solid rod stock, then had a 'hole' made it the tip for the square stock of the rotissiere. The pillow bearings I was looking at getting have 3/4" bore. Guess I better look at size of rod stock available. Or...use a pipe instead, where I can do this work at home.
Posted 04 November 2009 - 11:15 AM
I can send you a picture of the lure turner I made if you'd like Finlander. It's made of plywood, a piece of all thread and the motor out of a microwave. The all thread rod fits through holes drilled in the plywood and lubricated with Vaseline. No bearings at all. Works great for me.
Posted 04 November 2009 - 07:06 PM
I used a homemade rod turner and weber bbq motor. I used a 3/4 in. dowel carved square on one end to fit the motor. The dowel rides on the V blocks set up for a rod blank. I glued wooden clothes pins on the dowel at 90 degrees to the dowel axis. Bordering on crude and tacky but has been in use for at least 5 years. You might find a rod turner on ebay that you could adapt to suit??
Posted 04 November 2009 - 11:40 PM
I just started up my old set-up. First lure is tumbling w/ Etx on it. I may not go to the pillow bearing setup right away but that is the next step for me. This motor I bought less than a year ago and is real quiet. If I jerry rig something another way it may make enough noise that the wife wont be able to sleep. Those bearings would be pretty silent. I just dont have the support on the square shaft leading from the motor right now. But I see the direction I want to go to. I have some aluminum 'channel' pieces I can make the new frame with. Will post pictures of new lure and rack when I learn how.
Posted 07 November 2009 - 08:51 PM
Can you guys post some pics of yout "dryers?"
Edited by fat basser, 07 November 2009 - 08:51 PM.
Posted 08 November 2009 - 12:09 AM
Here's a pic of my drying wheel. The microwave motor is mounted on the end you can't see. It's connected to a piece of all thread with nuts and washers holding the plywood circles in place. There are no bearings. The holes for the all thread were drilled a little larger and then Vaseline was used for lube. There are small eye bolts screwed to the plywood circles that the baits are attached to with stiff wire bent into an "S" shape. One end of the bait is attached by the line tie and the back hook hanger gets an "S" hook that is then hooked to a rubber band that is doubled through the eye bolt on the other plywood circle. I used rubber bands so I could turn different length baits without having to make adjustments. In the picture there is a rubber band placed across the bill of the bait. This was done to keep the bait from flopping while it turned as this was a large lure. A tad crude, but it seems to work fairly well.
Edited by RayburnGuy, 08 November 2009 - 12:10 AM.