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MuskyGary

Hand Pour "core Worms

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Could someone tell me how they pour core worms? Im talking about the western finesse worms. I can see pouring the base then the core and finishing up with the top, but you would need something very fine to pour that core. Any ideas?

Do you mean core shots? If so, they use injectors. Shoot the outside color up to about an inch from the top of your mold, then shoot the core color.

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Could someone tell me how they pour core worms? Im talking about the western finesse worms. I can see pouring the base then the core and finishing up with the top, but you would need something very fine to pour that core. Any ideas?

Anchor brand makes a smaller 8oz cup. You can get a pretty thin stream with that. It just takes a little practice. If you use only only 2-4 oz in the cup you will have good control over the stream. Let the core set up about 30 seconds then pour the top. If you pour the top too soon you will get a split vein. The core will run to the sides. At least this is how I do it and it works pretty good.

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A true core shot has the color only inside the bait, no color runs to the side. If color goes to the side, that really is a standard vein (vs split vein).

Core shots are extremely difficult to do by hand pouring but can be done...

It really is all timing to me and tough to explain but I will try.

Pour your first color and let it set up a little bit. As the plastic cools, you get a slight concave area. Pour a small amount into the area without putting to much as to reach the sides. Then again allow for some set-up time and pour your final color or the original color on the bottom. All of this actually happens in around 20 seconds or so I'd guess.

It also works well if you pour just a line of plastic initially and then pour your core color on that line. Neither touch the sides of the mold. This takes a lot of practice! Then, you can pour the final color and any cold lines or blemishes will be on the bottom of the worm/bait.

As listed above, you might want to check out the hand injector systems as you can blast a core shot with far less practice.

If I get time, I'll post up some core shot baits in the gallery (if it is up..)

I would guess it took me almost 1 year from when I started hand pouring to the time I could actually get decent, reproduceable core shots.

Hand injection will take WAY less than that.

Good luck!!!!

Jim

PS I use your standard pyrex and Anchor cups. The spouted pans deliver a very thin stream as well.

Edited by ghostbaits
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A true core shot has the color only inside the bait, no color runs to the side. If color goes to the side, that really is a standard vein (vs split vein).

Core shots are extremely difficult to do by hand pouring but can be done...

It really is all timing to me and tough to explain but I will try.

Pour your first color and let it set up a little bit. As the plastic cools, you get a slight concave area. Pour a small amount into the area without putting to much as to reach the sides. Then again allow for some set-up time and pour your final color or the original color on the bottom. All of this actually happens in around 20 seconds or so I'd guess.

It also works well if you pour just a line of plastic initially and then pour your core color on that line. Neither touch the sides of the mold. This takes a lot of practice! Then, you can pour the final color and any cold lines or blemishes will be on the bottom of the worm/bait.

As listed above, you might want to check out the hand injector systems as you can blast a core shot with far less practice.

If I get time, I'll post up some core shot baits in the gallery (if it is up..)

I would guess it took me almost 1 year from when I started hand pouring to the time I could actually get decent, reproduceable core shots.

Hand injection will take WAY less than that.

Good luck!!!!

Jim

PS I use your standard pyrex and Anchor cups. The spouted pans deliver a very thin stream as well.

I find hand pouring easier to make a reproduceable bait than the hand injection. Maybe I'm doing something wrong.

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I find hand pouring easier to make a reproduceable bait than the hand injection. Maybe I'm doing something wrong.

LOL... Hey Richard, I think it would be easier to make a sucessful core shot with a hand injection system. Can;t speak on reproducibility as you can, I'm not hand injecting yet.

I would guess with time you might achieve better results.

Jim

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You can make that core shot or blood line as we call it here using the Lee Production Pot. For me its easier to control the speed at which I slide the mold under the spout and how much plastic I need to dispense to make that line. Its not all bad to let that line extend to the outer edges of the mold which make for some interesting looking baits. A good example would be the flirt worms made by Reaction Innovations.

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I have tried core shots a few times and have not had very good results. Maybe someone had already tried this but I had an idea. Could you pour a stream on a non stick surface for the core. It should be easier to pour a thinner straighter line, than trying to keep still the short disctance of the mold. Cut a section the right length. Pour the bottom half of the mold. Place the cut 'core' section on the bottom half already poured. Close the mold and fill the rest of the mold. Seems like it would work. Only question would be if it would adhere well enough if the 'core' cooled. Anybody try this before?

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Just to be sure what we are talking about guys, a core shot is color in the center of the bait and does not touch any of the outside of the bait.

A split vein is where you can see the color but really only well from the side of the bait as the vein splits to the side of the mold. From the top or bottom of the bait, you cannot see the color well if at all.

A vein is where you have color down the middle of the bait and you can generally see the vein from the top of the bait as well as the side view.

This is just terminology I have seen used over the years that may make things easier to explain or talk about.

Hand pouring a core shot is tough with a high failure rate until you really get things times well. Veins and split veins are a lot easier to do in a variety of ways.

In the end, most of the baits seen out there have split veins as they are the easiest to make.

Jim

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My experience with multiple colors is if you don't allow time for the first color to set up, the second color mixes with it. Then you have a bait without a clear defining line between the colors.

After seeing this happen, it is hard for me to understand how an injector shooting two colors in at once can keep the colors from mixing together. Can someone explain that to me?

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When shooting a core shot with the hand injector, you do not do both colors at the exact same time. The outer color is poured into the sprue, then the inner color is shot into the sprue. There is not a lot of time inbetween these steps as both colors do have to make it to the end of the mold. There are others out there that are better at this than me. Maybe they will chime in. Here is a pic.

5-26-09004.jpg

Edited by Zbass
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Yea injection core will look almost perfectly round on cross section view. This is what a bloodline/core will look like on left and split vein on the rite. Put the pics in negative view because my picture taking is not nearly as good as zbass's LOL

IMG_0688.jpg

Also for the ones who are not quite as advanced at pouring as some of these fellas you can do like some others who cheat and pour a lure with belly slot, take some plastic paint, paint a blood line in the slot then dip the lure. Will give the lure appearnce of a blood line even though it is not really one or a hand pour.

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hey fellas heres the video idk why it wouldnt be playing http://s664.photobucket.com/albums/vv4/tylerd1994/?action=view&current=508ee15b.pbr

it said on photobucket that this video will be deleted on december 22 due to them taking out the software i used to put three videos into one. so ill post all three soemtime soon

can someone reupload this video ?

greetings

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