RayburnGuy

Curing Time For Paint Before Top Coating

12 posts in this topic

I have no doubt this topic has been discussed before, but danged if I can find it. Must not be putting in the proper search phrase.

What is the proper amount of time to let Createx cure before applying a clear top coat. Right now I'm using D2T, but as soon as Dick gets his coating going again I will be using it.

thanks guys,

Ben

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It depends on how you applied the paint. I always blow dry each color shot except for painted eyes, which take at least an hour to air dry. I've applied D2T over blow dried paint immediately, no problem. But most often, I glue the lip in with D2T after painting and the bait gets at least a couple of hours before dipping in DN. The delay between painting and DN is because there are other steps to take care of, not because I think there needs to be additional paint cure time.

Edited by BobP

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I have no doubt this topic has been discussed before, but danged if I can find it. Must not be putting in the proper search phrase.

What is the proper amount of time to let Createx cure before applying a clear top coat. Right now I'm using D2T, but as soon as Dick gets his coating going again I will be using it.

thanks guys,

Ben

Yeah, I don't know if its just me or if something has changed but my searches have been coming up pretty vague recently.

I'm with BobP on the paint. I've put D2T on right after painting... and I actually try to get it on with as little delay as possible to avoid particle contamination.

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Thanks guys. I know it seems this dawned on me a little late seeing as how I've been finishing lures a couple months now. I do blow dry each coat of paint after applying it and then try to heat set the Createx when I finish painting. Just wanted to be sure I wasn't rushing things. :yay:

thanks,

Ben

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With the other guys. I'll blow dry to make sure everything is dry and apply the D2T. I've read here the suggestion to heat the bait before applying D2T. I've been using that method and it

seems to me the D2T goes on a little smoother.

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Hit the D2 with the blow dryer while it is still in the syringe. Hit the lure a little with the blow dryer after you apply the D2 and quickly stick it on the wheel. It will smooth out and look like glass...

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What about when your using DN? Read one of Rookies post and he said to heat set the paint and then wait 24 hours before applying the Dick Nites. Reason I ask is that I will be switching back to DN as soon as he gets it ready.

Ben

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is it absolutely necessarily to heat set the paint? in fact my question is "does it make the paint stick better to the underlayer?" or it is ok to wait for the water in the paint to dry? I ask because I paint more lures in one step so before I get back to the first one the paint is dried

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is it absolutely necessarily to heat set the paint? in fact my question is "does it make the paint stick better to the underlayer?" or it is ok to wait for the water in the paint to dry? I ask because I paint more lures in one step so before I get back to the first one the paint is dried

Hey Pikeman,

Kingfisher posted a guide for the use of Createx paints that goes into detail about getting the optimum performance out of their paint. I don't claim to understand it, but heat setting Createx does something to the way the paint bonds together. Here's the link to what Kingfisher posted here at http://www.tackleunderground.com/community/topic/17790-createx-application-guide-update-609/

RG

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RG,

I heat set my Createx with a hair dryer, first on low, to get the paint "dry", and then on high, to get the paint to change and cross link, per KF's link, and, originally, per Snax.

Once I've heat set on high, I let the lure hang for ten minutes to cool off, and then dip in SC9000 urethane and hang to dry.

After two hours, I dip a second time, with cranks, and, after another two hours, a third dip for swimbaits.

If the paint is truly heat set, the SC 9000 doesn't affect it.

I've never used DN, so I can't comment on it, and I stopped using D2T as a top coat a long time ago.

Edited by mark poulson

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Air drying versus heat drying. JMHO, it probably doesn't matter. My attitude is we're just getting the color on; the durable clearcoat is what's gonna keep it on the bait. It will stay on exactly as long as the clearcoat is intact and will come off immediately if the clearcoat fails, heat cured or not. That said, I always blow dry paint so I can move on to the next color asap.

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Thanks for the input guys. If I seem a little obsessive about some of this stuff it's just because I'd hate to finally get a paint job that deserves clear coating only to have the clear coat fail and ruin the bait because I didn't finish it correctly.

thanks again,

Ben

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