Bronzeback3

Clear Coats On Hard Baits

6 posts in this topic

Hey there everyone,

Hope your thanksgiving was good. I have just started to paint my own lures and I have tried the clear coat process and I can't find one that works well. I tried this one clear coat and it seems to be ok, but.....I have to wait 72 hours for full cure and even after that it still feels soft and it weights my lure down. I have looked around and purchesed some samples of what other guys have done. I have to say I am impressed! The clrear coat has a nice thin layer and some have added sparkles/glitter. What kind of epoxy has glitter?

I apply my epoxy with a foam brush used to paint wood trim. Is there another way to get a thin even coat on my lures? I think 72 hours is a long time to wait for my epoxy. Any sugesstions on what kinds to use? If so are there ones that work better on topwaters than jerkbaits and if I should be using different epoxy on them?

Sorry I have bombarded this post with questions....I am just frustrated and looking for some kind of mirical epoxy. Thanks for reading my post and good luck if your out there tring to get gifts for the holidays.....its a zoo!

Mike

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Mike, if your epoxy took 72 hrs and is still soft, you have a problem. You don't say what brand you used but every epoxy I know cures hard within 24 hrs if equally measured and thoroughly mixed. Failure to mix enough causes the most problems. You can usually 'repair' soft epoxy by covering it with a second coat; it will cause the soft epoxy to cure out. One good feature of epoxy is that it levels better than other finishes. If yours didn't, you probably didn't put it on thick enough or there is problem with the brand you used. I use an art brush to get the most even coat.

Envirotex Lite (aka Etex) is popular and yields a fairly thin coating. It has low viscosity so needs to be turned on a motorized lure turner for at least 2 hours to prevent drips and sags. Multiple coats are often needed to get a good finish.

No epoxy yields a thin coating like a factory finish. For that, you have to go with a 1 part moisture cure polyurethane like Dick Nite Lure Coat or a 2 part high solids auto clear like Matrix. I won't go into detail, there is a huge amount of info about Dick Nite, various brands of epoxies, etc if you use the search feature.

No epoxy comes with glitter; you either have to paint it on the lure before you clearcoat, or add it to the clearcoat before you apply it.

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Welcome to TU BB3.

You have waded in with the big question, which top coat. Unfortunately, no one has answered that one to everyones satisfaction.

Talk brand names and you will get feedback on others experience with the same product.

Dave

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Thanks BobP! I'll try those epoxies. The epoxy i used was for a tabe coat. I figured it would work...but I guess not. I will look into thoes thank you again! Mike

Mike, if your epoxy took 72 hrs and is still soft, you have a problem. You don't say what brand you used but every epoxy I know cures hard within 24 hrs if equally measured and thoroughly mixed. Failure to mix enough causes the most problems. You can usually 'repair' soft epoxy by covering it with a second coat; it will cause the soft epoxy to cure out. One good feature of epoxy is that it levels better than other finishes. If yours didn't, you probably didn't put it on thick enough or there is problem with the brand you used. I use an art brush to get the most even coat.

Envirotex Lite (aka Etex) is popular and yields a fairly thin coating. It has low viscosity so needs to be turned on a motorized lure turner for at least 2 hours to prevent drips and sags. Multiple coats are often needed to get a good finish.

No epoxy yields a thin coating like a factory finish. For that, you have to go with a 1 part moisture cure polyurethane like Dick Nite Lure Coat or a 2 part high solids auto clear like Matrix. I won't go into detail, there is a huge amount of info about Dick Nite, various brands of epoxies, etc if you use the search feature.

No epoxy comes with glitter; you either have to paint it on the lure before you clearcoat, or add it to the clearcoat before you apply it.

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Mike, Envirotex Lite is sold as a "pour-on table top finish". Michael's craft stores carry it. Comes in 2 8ox bottles for around $15. We don't really care what epoxy is sold for. Devcon Two Ton, another popular brand, is sold as glue. What's important is the clarity, leveling, durability, and resistance to yellowing.

Edited by BobP

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Thanks BobP! I'll try those epoxies. The epoxy i used was for a tabe coat. I figured it would work...but I guess not. I will look into thoes thank you again! Mike

Just a hunch, but you didn't mix it correctly. Etex et al, need to be measured exactly, by volume, not weight. To get a complete and even mix, use either measured cups, or a clear cup with your own measured marks( That's what I do). Pour one cup into the other then mix thoroughly, THEN pour that back into the other cup and mix again. In small amounts, much of what you measure out stays in the cup as residue and that is magnified if you're using small amounts. You may measure exactly, but but aren't getting exact amounts blended.

FWIW, put a piece of wire with a looped end in a hand drill, and use that a a mixer. Keep the speed sloe and the loop in contact with the bottom of the cup. Mix for 2 minutes and then pour that into the first cup, and blend some more. Cover it and let it sit for 10 or 15 minutes then apply.

I used this method on some really old E tex (over 5 yrs old) and it it worked perfectly.

If you're making really small lures, add a drop or two of Alcohol to the Etex to thin it a bit.

Edited by Husky

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