bluegrasslover Posted November 29, 2009 Report Share Posted November 29, 2009 Ok, so I made a 1 part mold of a popular fluke bait. I've been trying and trying but the tale is driving me crazy! Is there a trick to making those small, pointy tales come out right? I'm pouring out of a 1 cup pyrex measuring cup. Thanks, Greg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Delw Posted November 29, 2009 Report Share Posted November 29, 2009 (edited) Ok, so I made a 1 part mold of a popular fluke bait. I've been trying and trying but the tale is driving me crazy! Is there a trick to making those small, pointy tales come out right? I'm pouring out of a 1 cup pyrex measuring cup. Thanks, Greg theres a couple of tricks. 1st off never pour a 1piece mold from a pyrex cause there is only 2 people in my life I have ever seen being able to do such a thing on small worm molds. one of them is Daveh and he did that holding a camera in one hand and pouring in the other LOL .. Dump the pyrex, use a 1 cup measuring cup( like MOM used to use for flower) but only fill it half way or less 1/4 ways works best.. if you have doubts grab a glass out of the cabinet, fill it full with water, try to pour (into the sink) a fine line it runs down the side, now fill it 1/4 of the way you can pour a fine line all day long, or until you run out of water the key to pouring fine lines is to have the cup turned almost 90º before the plastic starts to roll off. another way is to fill the body and most of the tail to the Y, then take a tooth pick and pull the plastic from the body to the tip of the tail. when I say dump the pyrex, I mean for small worm molds and creatures, for big baits pyrex is the only way to go for pouring. Delw Edited November 29, 2009 by Delw Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bluegrasslover Posted November 30, 2009 Author Report Share Posted November 30, 2009 theres a couple of tricks. 1st off never pour a 1piece mold from a pyrex cause there is only 2 people in my life I have ever seen being able to do such a thing on small worm molds. one of them is Daveh and he did that holding a camera in one hand and pouring in the other LOL .. Dump the pyrex, use a 1 cup measuring cup( like MOM used to use for flower) but only fill it half way or less 1/4 ways works best.. if you have doubts grab a glass out of the cabinet, fill it full with water, try to pour (into the sink) a fine line it runs down the side, now fill it 1/4 of the way you can pour a fine line all day long, or until you run out of water the key to pouring fine lines is to have the cup turned almost 90º before the plastic starts to roll off. another way is to fill the body and most of the tail to the Y, then take a tooth pick and pull the plastic from the body to the tip of the tail. when I say dump the pyrex, I mean for small worm molds and creatures, for big baits pyrex is the only way to go for pouring. Delw Thanks! I just tried using a measuring cup with some water and I see exactly what you're talking about. I'll have to give it a try tonight! Greg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kajan Posted November 30, 2009 Report Share Posted November 30, 2009 Ma' if you want to make life much easier, get your sef' a presto pot with valve and stirrer, you will be pouring some fine streams with no effort. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Artificial All The Way Posted November 30, 2009 Report Share Posted November 30, 2009 Pyrex cups are made in all diff sizes. There are also many not made by the brand name Pyrex. Some have pouring type lips on them as well. I have them in all measuring cup sizes up to 4 cups and as small as a quarter cup. Great when I want just a small amount a red to add gills or for small molds. Google them up. I find pouring the belly and then tipping the mold to fill the tail works. Best when the mold and plastic are hot. You can get some thin tails like that. I made a few molds by pushing the bait into POP. I would push the forked tail down into the POP so it is tilted down into the mold. This way I fill the mold from the belly and when filled past the point of the tail it flows down into the tail. I don’t fill this mold to the top or else the tail gets to thick. I use 3 to 6” baits like this for Winter Hold Over Stripers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gone2long Posted November 30, 2009 Report Share Posted November 30, 2009 I use a 2-cup Pyrex cup with no problems and as Del alluded to with a larger 2-cup Pyrex with 4-8 ozs of plastic the cup will be very close to 90 degrees when pouring. What I do is pour a majority of the body then pour the tails and other small parts I also found for me that when your thin area is full either pull back into the body area or carefully whip the cup away from the mold this way only leaves a very thin flash to deal with rather than over filling your smaller parts, The next time I pour I'll take a picture of what I mean so you have a visual reference. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GB GONE Posted November 30, 2009 Report Share Posted November 30, 2009 It really is just practice. Fill the body completely and be ready to go down the tail with filling part of the way then back to the body to complete. Then, move to the other side of the tail and repeat. I just did some craw baits for Ted (Cadman) with real tiny appendages on each side. The openings were 1/8" wide only and a little long. Tough!!! Use your left hand to help steady if necessary but after pouring them a while, you can do it. I pour a 5" fluke mold and I would say get a 90% rate of non-trimmed baits. Also, consider an Anchor brand cup. The stream is much thinner. Some use the aluminum pans as well and crimp the spouts. Baits like Bob's lizard are similar in difficulty. You have to pour down the leg to the dot and then back to the body. Lots of practice to get those done also. Good luck!!! Jim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bluegrasslover Posted December 1, 2009 Author Report Share Posted December 1, 2009 Thanks for all the great advice. I guess I have until spring to get it down. I tried the tooth pick last night but the molds were too cold so that thin area stiffened up almost immediately. The wife wouldn't let me use the cup I found that might work good so I'll have to pick one up. I did a new test mold and used my dremel to make the tale a little deeper and wider. That worked pretty good but I don't know how it will swim. Thanks, Greg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GB GONE Posted December 1, 2009 Report Share Posted December 1, 2009 One other thing that helps A LOT. Get the mold closer to your eyes. Stack it on something or raise up your counter. The closer to your eyes, the better your control will be and better your hand to eye coordination will be. When I pour on my lower counter, it is definitely a lot tougher to pour into the small areas. Hope this also helps!!! Jim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daveh Posted December 1, 2009 Report Share Posted December 1, 2009 One other thing that helps A LOT. Get the mold closer to your eyes. Stack it on something or raise up your counter. The closer to your eyes, the better your control will be and better your hand to eye coordination will be. When I pour on my lower counter, it is definitely a lot tougher to pour into the small areas. Hope this also helps!!! Jim thats good advice jim. i like my molds close to my eye also. i pour 100`s of flukes for tourny guys and it can be done. pour slow and move fast.lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Artificial All The Way Posted December 1, 2009 Report Share Posted December 1, 2009 thats good advice jim. Ditto that Jim. I made a spot on my bench that is 4 foot high to pour on. Got tired of leaning over and holding my breath while hurting my back. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daveh Posted December 2, 2009 Report Share Posted December 2, 2009 Ditto that Jim. I made a spot on my bench that is 4 foot high to pour on. Got tired of leaning over and holding my breath while hurting my back. now thats funny. been there done that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Piscivorous Pike Posted December 7, 2009 Report Share Posted December 7, 2009 (edited) This is exactly the same problem, a tail on a fluke, that got me deep into TU. I shake too much and can't pour these things no matter what the good advice is. This is a more complicated solution but it worked. I went to injection. I have used injectors of several types, they all work and I have also used vacuum to suck it into the tail. Injection by far is the simplest solution. It has its unique problems too but they were easier to overcome. I made one mistake and got too big of an injector. I converted one piece molds very easily into two piece molds. I filled the cavity with plastic and then made a top by making a dam around the mold and pouring a RTV top half, a hybrid. The sprue can be put into the top as well as vents at the tail, especially if using a good aluminum mold. Now I can use these molds as a open one piece mold or I can put the top on and inject it. Edited December 7, 2009 by Piscivorous Pike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robalo01 Posted December 8, 2009 Report Share Posted December 8, 2009 Try this. Keep a razor blade on hand, and when/if you over pour, quickly scrape the excess away before it solidifies. This works well for me. I pur a 7" ribon tail that has Dragon fins (like small triangluar blades) down the edge of the tail. When i over pour/mess it up, I scrape it quickly and they come out fine. Also, the viscocity of the plastic is very important. The thinner the better. Stephen Robalo01 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bluegrasslover Posted December 10, 2009 Author Report Share Posted December 10, 2009 This is exactly the same problem, a tail on a fluke, that got me deep into TU. I shake too much and can't pour these things no matter what the good advice is. This is a more complicated solution but it worked. I went to injection. I have used injectors of several types, they all work and I have also used vacuum to suck it into the tail. Injection by far is the simplest solution. It has its unique problems too but they were easier to overcome. I made one mistake and got too big of an injector. I converted one piece molds very easily into two piece molds. I filled the cavity with plastic and then made a top by making a dam around the mold and pouring a RTV top half, a hybrid. The sprue can be put into the top as well as vents at the tail, especially if using a good aluminum mold. Now I can use these molds as a open one piece mold or I can put the top on and inject it. Great idea. This is a 1 piece POP mold so I used some drywall sanding mesh and got it nice and flat, added a pour hole, then clamped a piece of plexiglass to it to make it a 2 piece. Worked beautifully! Got a perfect fluke, tail and all. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Piscivorous Pike Posted December 10, 2009 Report Share Posted December 10, 2009 bluegrasslover we all got something out of this thread! From Delw and Jim, they described a great method to make a "pony" pan to pour the tails with. Using their ideas I took the lower 1/3 of coke can and made a narrow spout. I poured from my pyrex anchor cup into the can and poured the fluke then finished the cavity with the cup. It worked well enough I could control my shaking for a few lures, enough for a trip. 4 spinal surgeries left me some damage and I shake, as I said before. This and vacuum injection gets me the flukes and narrow appendages. I will use the injection when I need to turn out a quanity. Thank you very much, guys! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vodkaman Posted December 11, 2009 Report Share Posted December 11, 2009 We should talk about the thickness of the plexy for this process. I mention this because the couple of times that I have tried plexy in heat processes, I had significant warping. I was only using what I had available in my shop, which was way too thin and wasn't really expecting anything more than I got. Dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bluegrasslover Posted December 11, 2009 Author Report Share Posted December 11, 2009 We should talk about the thickness of the plexy for this process. I mention this because the couple of times that I have tried plexy in heat processes, I had significant warping. I was only using what I had available in my shop, which was way too thin and wasn't really expecting anything more than I got. Dave It's pretty thin but I wasn't really planning on it being the perm solution. I just wanted to try it out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kajan Posted December 11, 2009 Report Share Posted December 11, 2009 I will just say again, get your self a presto pot and pour the tails, I pour bou'cou' fluke lures and I have no problems, But I use RTV molds, I never ever have to trim lures. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
