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Posted 01 December 2009 - 09:18 PM
How do you guys clear jointed baits with D2T and turn them. The baits wants to flop so how do you keep it straight.
Posted 01 December 2009 - 10:40 PM
Easiest? Don't glue the segments together until the bait is painted and cleared. If it's too late, try wrapping a rubber band around the joint until it doesn't flop around.
Posted 02 December 2009 - 06:43 AM
I have only done a few jointed baits but what I did was open up a paper clip, bend a 90+ deg on each end, then bend it in a V so that the 90 deg angles are slightly longer than the hook spacing. Then bend it a tick to get it in the hook holes and let it spirng back. I dont think this will work on longer baits though.
Posted 02 December 2009 - 06:55 AM
I should add that the baits I did had 2 hinge points in the joint. If you are doing a Rapala type bait then this won' work.
Posted 02 December 2009 - 07:51 PM
I place a bent wire or paper clip in the rear hook hanger and the line tie at the nose of bait. To the other end of the clips or wires I attach swivels and strong rubber bands or a springs to the other end of the swivels. Attach the springs or rubber bands to cup hooks screwed into a frame made of 2x4's. this allows you to turn the lure by hand while painting and clear coating. My drying wheel has clips that I clamp on one wire and stretch the other rubber band over the other clip which gives enough tension to keep the lure straight and the joints seperated. I hope this makes sense.
Posted 03 December 2009 - 02:06 AM
@ Net Man
I don't utilise a rotator , as my epoxy top coat sets pretty fast ,.... only have to switch the lures round for a few times before it starts to set .
For topcoating jointed lures I would utilize a rectangular wood dowel approx. 15mm X 40mm , that is longer than the lure and has a larger and longer open wallhanger eye screw mounted 90° offset on either end into the narrower side of the dowel .
One could take rubber-O-rings to fix the lure inbetween the two eyescrews , but it is more firm and rigid to take thin nylon cord(the type for kite flying) and make two smaller knotted loops , .........poke these through the lure's attachment eyes on either end and slide over the open eye screws .
To finally fix the lure for painting/topcoating , I'd put a piece of thicker , rigid wire into one cord loop and twist up the cord to put pull tension onto the jointed lure , after it would sit real firm this way , I would bend the wire piece to proper shape to bind with the eyescrew next of it , ..........the tension of the twisted cord will keep it in place .
The wood dowel has to be kept rather narrow to have easier access with a paint brush to every portion of the lure .
To prevent this jig from falling to the side(not very stable stand on the narrow dowel) whilst working , I'd fix one or two spring loaded clambs onto it to act as a stand , this way it sits stable on the workbench , no matter whether vertically or horizontally .
greetz , diemai
Edited by diemai, 03 December 2009 - 02:08 AM.
Posted 04 December 2009 - 12:03 AM
If you are a newb like me......wax paper I thought, since the wood is already sealed with ZAR Ultra Max, I didnt have to get the Etex deep inside the joints. Ive yet to see how that works out.
But if you are an experienced builder, I do what the others guys on here said.