Some Swimbait Construction Pictures
44 replies to this topic
Posted 07 March 2010 - 06:10 PM
@ mark poulson
Thanks a lot , Mark , ..........in fact I have chosen this way of joining the sections due to the small size of the lures and also because I get my kicks in luremaking in always trying out different things and methods .
I won't trust the joint that you've called "mortise and tenon" type of hinge on these small lures , .....I'm rather scared , that the latches of the female hinge portion accommodating the hinge pins at belly and back might break off , as they would turn out very tiny and thin , still weakened by the hinge pin bore .
Don't have much experience about PVC yet(not even about swimbaits in general) ,.....still going to make one in the 6"+ range some day , ........but I think , that I would use the type of homemade sheet metal hinge , that I have described in one tutorial in here about one year ago .
But I might as well use your proven screw eye and pin construction .
All I know is , that I want the hinge construction on bigger PVC lures of some kinda heavier hardware , as this already adds some weight to the extremely buoyant stuff , so I won't have to place loads of lead in their bellies , .........just thinking , that otherwise I might probably get into space problems for the ballast .
Just epoxied in all the joints into these baits today , quite a finacky work with toothpicks and small drops of glue on them , as I have to take care , not to clog up the hinge sleeves , ......but it came ot fine !
One sleeve got stuck up a bit , but there was still enough room inside of the sleeve to push a 1,0 mm drill bit inbetween to get rid of the little glue , that had gotten inside , ....all is moving alright now !
Gonna keep you informed , my friend , ......but I am not the fastest of a lure carver !
greetz , Dieter
Posted 08 March 2010 - 04:01 PM
You look like you're doing just fine on the carving side.
People who buy handmade lures have no concept of how much more difficult smaller jointed baits are than larger ones.
They think we should charge by the inch. At that rate, I'd go broke!
I hope the weather warms and the water softens soon for you, and you can get out and fish.
Posted 09 March 2010 - 05:58 PM
@ mark poulson
These small baits really seem to be more elaborate , Mark , .........but I surely enjoy the work(I probably wouldn't , if I'd sell them ) .
This morning I have weighted them in a waterbucket down the workshop ,...... they sank very slow in a horizontal position with the weights initially taped onto the lures , but after having cut out all of the ballast pouches , they'd finally sink a bit faster for sure .
After all of the metal hardware glued in I am pretty much surprised about the amount of weight still required on this very buoyant PVC material ,............. I have used the lead chunks inside of curtain weight bands , these lead pieces are 5 X 10 mm cylinders , only flattened them out a bit to fit better into the lures belly ,..... guess , they are at about 3-4 grams each .
Tomorrow I'm gonna clean off the excess glue and apply the first paint coats !
greetz , Dieter
Posted 16 March 2010 - 01:57 AM
Just got done with these small PVC swimbaits yesterday , made a little bath tub video of them and my latest PVC crankbaits , you may watch it here : My link
Whilst topcoating the swimbaits the joints became clogged up just a bit , but I have managed to scrape all paint remainders off of them , so they obviously move freely now .
Really enjoyed working on these tiny bits , but my next swimbaits are gonna be a bit larger , I guess !
greetz , diemai
Posted 16 March 2010 - 04:50 AM
Impressive work as usual, but I have to say "WOW!" to the action on those swimbaits. Amazing action. Congrats.
Posted 16 March 2010 - 08:52 AM
love the swimbaits action alot.. lol i thinking i have to rip off your idea and make a proto of my own:lol:
Posted 16 March 2010 - 10:30 AM
You've done an impressive work; your swimbaits have got a very nice action.
Posted 16 March 2010 - 11:10 AM
WOW! Great looking bait. Hi, I'm a newbie here and here's my first post. I have one question. What and how will you seal your bait?
P.S. I love the Plaster of Paris rivet bearing idea.
Edited by CatchemCaro, 16 March 2010 - 11:10 AM.
Posted 17 March 2010 - 01:18 AM
Thanks a lot for your kid words , guys , ........... happy if I could provide some input with my humble work !
There are multiple ways to seal off wooden baits , several are described somewhere in here(utilize the search function) .
I just dip my baits into liquid wood sealer twice(the kind one would use to protect wooden parts outdoors like fences , sheds , etc.) ,......... not the best way , but fine for me .
I also utilize a 50/50 mixture of boiled linseed oil and turpentine to soak my blanks for a few days , ....a very slow method , has only worked on abachewood so far , takes several weeks to dry , but seals off perfect .
Afterwards the lures have to be painted with a few layers of acrylic clear to prevent the liquid inside of the wood reacting with following paintcoats , thus yellowing them after a longer while .
Guess , the best way to seal off wooden baits is propionate , ....but I haven't yet used it , lots of write ups about it in here , .......a good describtion you can also find at My link , check out the "How-To-Guides" there(left upper window of start page) .
This PVC material , that I utilized last for my lures , does not require any sealing , you can even paint straight on the fine-sanded blanks , also weight them in a water bucket or test them yet unglued without any sealing treatment required .
good luck , diemai
Posted 17 March 2010 - 09:22 AM
Congratulations! Those look great!
I think you'll find they swim with a great S pattern, like a real fish.
The pike should be very happy, up until they realize they've been fooled!
Posted 18 March 2010 - 12:52 AM
@ mark poulson
Thanks a lot , Mark , ........to be honest , I was happily surprised , that they swam that well , because if I moved them in my hand , the joints would sometimes "edge" or clog inside of the hinge sleeves or against the opposing section and not move freely .
But this looks like just a gravity problem ,......... as the bait is in the water some lift is generated to the single sections , also the line pull kinda centers them against one another so they do swim like they should !
Just started out with some bigger PVC baits yesterday , planning on joining them with interconnected wire forms glued into slots cut lengthwise centered into back and belly , .............not through lengthwise bores in their backs this time , like I did to my first wooden batch .
I am hoping to have a little less work this way , still trying out many things !
greetz , Dieter
Posted 18 March 2010 - 05:16 AM
Just proceeded a bit with my latest PVC swimbaits this morning , .....at first I've made the lenghtwise belly and back slots with a "Dremel" cutting disc , .....after furnished the separation cuts inbetween the sections on my hobby routing machine leaving some connecting material in the blank's center to keep it still in one piece for sanding the outer body shape with nice transitions .
A made the cuts a bit wider , not just went through with the round saw blade once , just to achieve the about gap , that the two interconnected wire eyes would create after final assembly , ...........this is also for nice outline transitions , especially with lure blanks , that have a pronounced taper at back and belly .
After those separation cuts I've sanded the rear flank tapers down the tail and finally rounded off back and belly of the lures to achieve the final body shape .
Next to do would be to make the eye sockets(planning on stemmed teddy bear eyes) , after I would decide whether to still carve some details like mouth and gillplates , ....not sure about that yet !
greetz , diemai
Posted 18 March 2010 - 07:30 AM
Those look really good.
You're really cranking them out now.
Amazing how many steps PVC eliminates, at least for me.
I know, for me, I can make a lure in one day, if I'm inspired, and fish it the next.
It works great for poppers, too. I even made one with holes through the gill areas that makes bubbles as it pops. Nice not to ever have to worry about water intrusion.
I'm thinking about making a lipless crank with holes to generate bubbles as it's retrieved. I would never dream of that with wood.
Can't wait to see the finished product.
Edited by mark poulson, 18 March 2010 - 07:32 AM.
Posted 19 March 2010 - 06:52 AM
@ mark poulson
It truly is a great material , Mark , ........carves and sands like a dream !
Just did some detail carving to the pike lure this morning , not quite perfect , but I'm OK with it so far ............need to obtain some more teddy bear eyes , as these were my last pair .
Gonna carve some details to the carp bait tomorrow , hopefully I would also find some eyes somewhere , ...the small craft store in my hometown has shut down recently , have to check in Hamburg !
Want them pike eyes(presently only temporary mounted) in orange , .....but I might as well paint the bottom of the socket , these eyes are clear , the color surely would shine through !
greetz , Dieter
Posted 20 March 2010 - 04:27 AM
Ok, I'm convinced, I've got to try PVC!
Dieter, you're making an impressive work on that pikey swimbait, I'm looking forward to see it finished!
Posted 20 March 2010 - 06:43 AM
I agree, it's looking great. Can't wait to see the finished product, and the pike that eats it.
Posted 20 March 2010 - 07:28 AM
Dieter, WOW ! I love the rivet idea and the way the bait is jointed reminds me of a puzzle. I can't wait to try this. Do you add belly weights to keep your baits upright? I haven't made any swimbaits or crank baits in awhile because I can't get them to swim right. Thanks again for sharing your work.
Posted 20 March 2010 - 11:31 AM
Thanks a lot folks , .........just got back home from my wife's usual shopping trip , but I've managed to find some more teddy bear eyes for the second carp lure as well .
You're right , Brett ,.......... these swimbaits require some ballast in their bellies ,....... something , that you need to take into consideration BEFORE starting out at all !
If you choose a very buoyant material like this PVC , you would need a lot of space in the bellies of the single sections to place it into .
This also has an effect on the location of hook hangers and especially the hinge placement and construction .
On the other hand , .......choosing a kinda hardwood having a lower buoancy , your entirely assembled lure might already sink or barely float without any added weights(due to hooks and hinge hardware) , but certainly not in the proper upright and horizontal level .
This bait with the Plaster of Paris rivet bearings reminding you of a puzzle does have sufficient space for belly weights , as there is no wire or screw eyes passing through the center of the sections .
On the other throughwired baits jointed by interconnected wire eyes one should not position the lower wire forms too close to the belly but a little more upward , just to gain some more space for belly weights .
I like to taper the flanks of my swimbaits towards the tail at about 2/3 to 1/2 of their entire length , so that they would become less buoyant down the tail , this way I won't have to put any weights into the last sections and maybe only little in the second to the last .
The majority of ALL ballast is located in the first head section , a little less most likely in the second one behind the head .
This is one reason , why the head section should be the biggest and most voluminous one , .......sections reduce one for one in size and volume down the tail .
Second reason to keep the first section bigger and longer is , that there are vortices in the water generated by that section , these do flow down the flanks helping the trailing sections to move sideward thus resluting into the typical snake action (there is a thread about these vortices in here started by Vodkaman , I guess).
To be sure to generate enough of these vortices I like to keep the upper nose portion of the head section rather flat , only round off the edges a bit . The belly and the backs and bellies of the trailing sections I still do round entirely , but it is not neccessary for proper function .
Rather more streamlined head sections don't seem to generate as many vortices , thus such baits are harder to swim properly , ........at least this is my theory now .
I also place the tow eye quite low on the first section , I do not make the nose symetrical with the tow eye at the nose tip in center , ..............I believe that this way also some leverage around the tow eye occurs , generated by the oncoming current during retrieve .
This unequal water pressure above and below the tow eye also helps the first head section to break out sideward thus trailing the rear sections , the vortices then do their share to "snake" the bait .
Thanks again all and good luck , .........greetz , Dieter
Posted 21 March 2010 - 03:06 AM
Dieter, your pike looks great shaped!
You've been very active with these swimbaits, I wonder do you have any more time for other lures, ha-ha!
Posted 21 March 2010 - 01:35 PM
.........got plans for other lures , Janne !
But these are very elaborate , but I really enjoy working on them !
Just furnished all of the connecting wire forms of the carp bait today , also fins and initial lead sheet weights .
Guess , that these double pieces of lead sheet won't be heavy enough to have the PVC sink , but at least they do already provide a good share of ballast , I would do the fine trimming after having all sections connected .
I have started to glue in the wire-forms and weights , but it would take a few days to get done , as I can only glue one section within a day , need the glue to cure thoroughly to be able to clean off excess without having it smear my tools constantly .
Glued in wire and weight into the pike's head as well , but still have to make all the other wire forms , weights and fins for that lure during the coming week's rare leisure time .
greetz , Dieter