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Some Swimbait Construction Pictures
44 replies to this topic
Posted 21 March 2010 - 05:05 PM
I've also been messing around with PVC swimbaits lately and I found that it takes a very large amount of weight to sink even a small one; it took a 3/4oz. lead slug in the throat of a 5" swimbait to sink it . You might have more room for weighting if you don't through-wire your baits, but then twisted-wire hook hangers or screw eyes may not be strong enough if you're fishing for large fish. I've never fished for anything larger than bass and catfish so I don't know how well screw eyes hold up to fish such as pike and muskie.
Just a thought.
Posted 21 March 2010 - 06:29 PM
I am aware of this , have already noticed about the neccessity of plenty of ballast on PVC lures , when making my first smaller baits .
These baits are wide enough to embed some more weights left and right of the harness slots , I could use lead shot or some small 10 X 5 millimetres cylindrical lead slugs , that I borrowed from curtain weight bands , .......if neccessary , I could also hammer these to any shape required to fit them into the blanks .
Epoxied screw eyes should hold up well for pike in PVC , I guess , .....did a test recently trying to pull out an unglued 3/4" eye with pliers(pull direction aligned with shaft and without moving it back and forth) , ........could not move it a single bit with all of my strength , the pliers would rather always loose their grip .
But it's true , I should rather put my trust on a tru-wired PVC lure ,....... the average pike won't do any harm to screw eyes , but what about hooking that 50" pike of a lifetime ?
greetz , diemai
Posted 12 April 2010 - 12:06 AM
Hi , folks ,
Managed to proceed a bit with my actual batch of PVC swimbaits , ...........finally have them connected and also glued in all ballast weights .
Had some issues with both of the carp ,- and pike-shaped baits ,..... they would did not swim in their original condition as shown above .
The carp bait did not perform well because of it's bigger tail fin made of epoxy sheet(similar to circuit board) , ......the tail hook would always bind with it on retrieve and hinder proper movements , also the considerably heavy material put its share to this lack of action , I guess ?
Therefore I replaced that tail fin with a smaller one of PVC , and the following blank swim test displayed a much better and improved action of that bait . Off course I had to add some more ballast to the fourth section to balance the now decreased weight of the rear part of the lure .
As I had already expected right from the start , the pike-shaped bait did not perform well at all , .........the slender body shape is simply too difficult to generate those vortices , that get a swimbait to "snake" ,..................only the last one or two section plus the tail fin did move a bit at first .
So I had to add a lip to that bait , dremeld out the accommodating pouches for the lip and testet the lure again , .......it swam OK now with that lip I've made , so I finally glued it in , .........problem solved !
Also made another bigger four-sectioned PVC bait along with these two swimbaits , ...........just wanted to try out this little different design of a simple pullbait !
It is based upon a lure by an unknown builder , that I had received years ago from a friend .
That lure was called "The Jackknife" , .........it had only two sections , that did float up with head and tail down in a kinda "V"-shape .
If you'd jerk it , it would instantly straighten out and dive down , .........pause it , and it would collapse into the kinked condition instantly and rise up to the surface again .
On one picture a piece of wire resembles in about the water line , in about how the "U" shaped collapsed lure sections would hang on the surface .
My own four-sectioned version of approx. 8 1/2" works the same way , tried the blank in the tub ,...... the action is pretty much OK for me , .......on the dive the sections even sport a little wiggle as the lure digs down .
Only issue , that could still come up , is that the trebles might constantly tangle whilst casting , ..........but I guess , that stopping down the cast before impact would cause the lure to hit the water straightened out and not have the hooks bind , .......during it's jerk-and-pause retrieve it would not happen , I guess .
When first priming these multiple sectioned lures , I've encountered the problem of the sections moving too much whilst brushing paint onto them , even the spring-loaded metal clams , that I've fixed onto either end , did not help that much , as they still had done with my previously built smaller swimbaits !
So on a short term I have made these simple frames to fix the lures into in a straightened out condition , the single segments are now rigid enough against one another not to move that much anymore .
Guess , that the pictures say it all , .......one end of the lure is rigged into a wire hook , the other end is fixed with a loop of kite cord , that has been twisted with a kinked nail , so that the lure sections would be pulled apart , thus straightened out rigidly , finally I would somehow clog up and secure the nail against the tension of the cord , a piece of thicker and softer wire would do as well , ....even easier to secure it finally .
Greetz , diemai
Edited by diemai, 12 April 2010 - 12:10 AM.
Posted 13 April 2010 - 03:32 PM
I agree dieter, a high or low tow eye location and the bulk of the body mass in the first section. These ideas fit the theory. I cannot talk practical as I have only made a few swimbaits just to prove my ideas.
I am still blown away from your last set of vids, you have certainly cracked what is required for success in this difficult field. Can't wait for the vids of your latest creations. You are leading the way.