Herman Nel

Thick Gloss Coat On Lures

5 posts in this topic

Hi Guys!

I am still fairly new to the luremaking family but have come up wit a good design and it works great!

I currently coat it ( by dipping ) in nitrocellulose,but I find this a bit time consuming and it also make some paints run,futhermore the latest problem is that the coat turns to a smokey white effect...?

What alternatives ( available in South-Africa can you guys suggest?

Regards

Herman Nel

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Hi Guys!

I am still fairly new to the luremaking family but have come up wit a good design and it works great!

I currently coat it ( by dipping ) in nitrocellulose,but I find this a bit time consuming and it also make some paints run,futhermore the latest problem is that the coat turns to a smokey white effect...?

What alternatives ( available in South-Africa can you guys suggest?

Regards

Herman Nel

Hi Herman

I use some nitro paints but have been forced onto 2K paints as cellulose is being phased out in the Uk. I have never heard of nitro clear-coat been used as a dip :o . I am not surprised you have some running paint from dipping as you are basically dipping your baits into solvent (ouch). Do you have an airbrush ?? Nitro clear is designed as a spray applied medium and used as such will give real good results plus it dries almost instantly when sprayed in light coats. The smokey effect is created by the solvents vaporizing, this is common when using proprionate dips. I have read on here that if you hang the lure in a sealed container containing the same solvent in the bottom of it (in your case cellulose thinners) then this prevents the white blush.

As for alternatives available in South Africa, well, not sure as I ain't there but I think epoxy coatings are more or less universal and give a very durable coat to any lure though it should be noted you really need a lure turner cos they run like crazy. Although I haven't used any yet, some of the new urethane finishing coats are very promising, (I think Dick Nites falls into this family of coatings but I'm not sure) the place to look for them are natural wood flooring outlets as they are often used as a long lasting coating on heavily trod floors.

Lastly, lets have a picture of the lure, if its successful over in your neck of the woods it will probably do the business elsewhere ;)

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Herman,

Glad to see another Saffie on here. I live in the states now and I use 30 min. 2 part epoxy called Devcon 2 ton as well as Dick Nites lure coat on my lures.

The 2 part epoxy is very similar to Pratley Quickset clear and I think the Pratley will work just as well. The epoxy gives a nice, glossy, protective coating.

Look up some post here for tips on using Devcon and give the Pratley a try using the same techniques and tips.

Hope this helps,

"Stywe Lyne "

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Thanks Phil B and Saffie!

I have got an airbrush,but dipping turned out less time consuming...

As for the epoxy,I use it as a base,but how would you apply it to a lure to get a smooyh "dipped" finish? It only comes in small amounts like 50 gr or something,would you dilute it and spray it?

Regards

Herman Nel

ps...here is my website adress where you can see the lure

http://herminator-lures.weebly.com/

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@ Herman Nel

Hi , welcome to TU !

I am presently looking for a new supplier for epoxy topcoats as well , since my old component supplier has taken the stuff , that I have been using , off his site for months now !

Many builders on German lure making sites use epoxy from My link , which is a supplier for boat building , thus offers different kind of resins and hardeners , also in small amounts .

There are two basic epoxy resins and different hardeners available , at least with one resin it is possible to alter the proccessing and curing time by mixing them with different kinds of hardeners .

Anyway , I am used to a small proccessing and short curing time from the old product , so I am gonna make my choice accordingly , .........this way I do not need to use a rotator or drying wheel , but I'd be able to only switch around the lures a few times to dry , before the epoxy starts to set .

Most guys over here utilize resin/hardener with a longer proccessing and curing time , these provide thicker and more even coats , but these absolutely require a drying wheel , otherwise the epoxy would flow down onto the bottom side of the lures and cure like that , ......and they're wasted !

Maybe , you can try find sucha marine supplier at your location as well and check the offers there ? ?

I do not have much experience with different topcoats , I've also been using a two component automotive clear laquer and also modelling dope , but these two are more likely to affect and dissolve any paint layers underneath rather more than epoxy does , ......but to be sure , I'd always coat the paint design with two layers of acrylic clear paint before finally topcoating .

good luck , diemai :yay:

PS : your website is very interresting !

Edited by diemai

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