tightliner

Questions For Dn Dippers

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Hi guys! I was wondering if one dip into DN was sufficiant for coating a crankbait. My other question is after heat setting I still get on occaisional run of paint(acrylic). Would a light shot of clear laquer help before dipping? Also, I am currently using DURA-TUFF CLEAR COAT by FAMOWOOD. I ran out of DN . This stuff is very similar, drys hard and crystal clear. Thanks. Ed

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Hi guys! I was wondering if one dip into DN was sufficiant for coating a crankbait.

I only dip one time in DN for bass crankbaits

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Like Jim, I dip bass crankbaits once. I figure dipping is the most DN you can get on a lure in one coat, and it's sufficient for bass fishing as long as we aren't talking about trolling the lure. Are more coats better? Of course! But then you have to worry about how long to wait between dips to avoid bubbles and wrinkling the finish. The single dip baits I'm using now seem to be holding up nicely, so I have no complaints. I also tried Famowood awhile back and it worked OK but I felt it was not as transparent as DN.

The other issue - running acrylic paint AFTER heat setting? If it's heat set, it's also dry as a bone and can't run anywhere, so I don't understand. I dry each shot of acrylic as I put it on the lure. I don't blast it to smithereens, I just make sure it's good and dry. When I'm finished painting, it's all desert dry and I don't have to worry about underlying moisture, which CAN screw up urethane finish. I doubt covering damp acrylic with a little lacquer will make any difference.

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[quotte name=BobP' date='18 December 2009 - 11:39 PM' timestamp='1261197541' post='136531]

Like Jim, I dip bass crankbaits once. I figure dipping is the most DN you can get on a lure in one coat, and it's sufficient for bass fishing as long as we aren't talking about trolling the lure. Are more coats better? Of course! But then you have to worry about how long to wait between dips to avoid bubbles and wrinkling the finish. The single dip baits I'm using now seem to be holding up nicely, so I have no complaints. I also tried Famowood awhile back and it worked OK but I felt it was not as transparent as DN.

The other issue - running acrylic paint AFTER heat setting? If it's heat set, it's also dry as a bone and can't run anywhere, so I don't understand. I dry each shot of acrylic as I put it on the lure. I don't blast it to smithereens, I just make sure it's good and dry. When I'm finished painting, it's all desert dry and I don't have to worry about underlying moisture, which CAN screw up urethane finish. I doubt covering damp acrylic with a little lacquer will make any difference.

Thanks gentlemen, the help is greatly appreciated! Have a wonderful Holiday, Ed.

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[quotte name=BobP' date='18 December 2009 - 11:39 PM' timestamp='1261197541' post='136531]

Like Jim, I dip bass crankbaits once. I figure dipping is the most DN you can get on a lure in one coat, and it's sufficient for bass fishing as long as we aren't talking about trolling the lure. Are more coats better? Of course! But then you have to worry about how long to wait between dips to avoid bubbles and wrinkling the finish. The single dip baits I'm using now seem to be holding up nicely, so I have no complaints. I also tried Famowood awhile back and it worked OK but I felt it was not as transparent as DN.

The other issue - running acrylic paint AFTER heat setting? If it's heat set, it's also dry as a bone and can't run anywhere, so I don't understand. I dry each shot of acrylic as I put it on the lure. I don't blast it to smithereens, I just make sure it's good and dry. When I'm finished painting, it's all desert dry and I don't have to worry about underlying moisture, which CAN screw up urethane finish. I doubt covering damp acrylic with a little lacquer will make any difference.

Thanks gentlemen, the help is greatly appreciated! Have a wonderful Holiday, Ed.

I have run into paint wrinkling if I try to put the clear hours after painting. Let the paint cure on a shelf for a day or two. It works for me.

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I had occasional problems with paint wrinkling under Dick Nite when I first used it. I was dipping baits and putting them on a lure turner while the DN dried. Eventually, I noticed that on problem baits, there was excess DN collecting near the tail of the bait before I could get it on the turner. The DN skins over quickly and was trapping still liquid DN underneath, sloshing back and forth as the bait rotated. It would stay liquid long enough to make the paint wrinkle or bubble. The easiest fix is to dip them and simply hang them up by the line tie to dry. All excess DN drips off the tail, no further problems. No lure turner needed.

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Since this is a dn chat... sorta... about how many lures can be dipped into a quart (assuming about a 3" lure)? Also, for you guys that order it by the gallon, do you only use a fraction of the amount at a time to keep the whole stock from beginning to cure? I have not used the stuff yet (will be placing an order the day after Christmas) and want to do it right the first time!

As for the Bloxygen type stuff, has anyone used a product called X-tend-it? I use it on my resins and its suppose to be used on moisture sensitive prodcuts.

http://www.sculpt.com/technotes/Tech_Sheets/TECH_SHEET_EXTEND-IT.pdf

I ordered mine through aero marine; however, I wanted to see if anyone had used x-tend-it on DN first.

Thanks!

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A-Mac, I haven't counted how many bass cranks I get out of a quart but I'm very sure it's cost competitive with Devcon epoxy. I know some guys look at dipping and think "OMG! Look at all that expensive DN dripping off that's wasted!" When I hang lures to dry, about as much drips off the lure as stays on it. All I can say is the quart I'm using now has lasted 9 months and there's still plenty left. Ease of use is superior and so are the results, so I'm a happy camper. What turned it around for me is using Bloxygen, a mix of argon and nitrogen gas. Squirt a little in the dipping jar and it never begins to cure. I haven't heard of Extend It, reading the sheet you link to, it's a mix of gases different from Bloxygen. Since it's formulated for polyurethanes specifically, it will probably work great on DN ... but I haven't tried it. I order DN by the quart and decant that into 3 smaller glass jars with good screw on tops, shoot Bloxygen in each. When the dip jar gets low, I pour in some from one of the other jars. Bloxygen costs about $11 per can and says you should get about 75 shots into quart size containers. That a little fishy to me since how much you shoot should depend on the air space in the container, not the fluid level. I give pint jars a 1 second blast and that has worked so far. I get 2 cans of Bloxygen at a time and reorder when the first can is empty, and think I'm using a little more than one can of Bloxygen per quart (rough estimate).

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A-Mac, I haven't counted how many bass cranks I get out of a quart but I'm very sure it's cost competitive with Devcon epoxy. I know some guys look at dipping and think "OMG! Look at all that expensive DN dripping off that's wasted!" When I hang lures to dry, about as much drips off the lure as stays on it. All I can say is the quart I'm using now has lasted 9 months and there's still plenty left. Ease of use is superior and so are the results, so I'm a happy camper. What turned it around for me is using Bloxygen, a mix of argon and nitrogen gas. Squirt a little in the dipping jar and it never begins to cure. I haven't heard of Extend It, reading the sheet you link to, it's a mix of gases different from Bloxygen. Since it's formulated for polyurethanes specifically, it will probably work great on DN ... but I haven't tried it. I order DN by the quart and decant that into 3 smaller glass jars with good screw on tops, shoot Bloxygen in each. When the dip jar gets low, I pour in some from one of the other jars. Bloxygen costs about $11 per can and says you should get about 75 shots into quart size containers. That a little fishy to me since how much you shoot should depend on the air space in the container, not the fluid level. I give pint jars a 1 second blast and that has worked so far. I get 2 cans of Bloxygen at a time and reorder when the first can is empty, and think I'm using a little more than one can of Bloxygen per quart (rough estimate).

Thanks for the info BobP. Can't wait to use the stuff... and HOPE I get the method right the first time.

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Just started using the DN that I have. I witnessed the same problem that BobP described. I have been brushing the DN on and after about 5 lures the wrinkle problem occurred. I was brushing the DN on and as I was brushing some on I watched the paint wrinkle before my eyes. The other 5 did fine and I put them on a drying wheel. Guess I won't be doing that anymore.

My question for those that have been using DN for awhile ... if I brush it on and then hang it to dry will there be a "glob" of DN on the end where is all ran too? Or will it all run off the lure leaving a smooth finish on the end of the lure?

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Kris, as long as your DN hasn't cured and become thick, it will just drip off the tail of the lure. I dip lures with the lip and the hook hangers installed so there is usually a drop of DN covering the tail hanger which I remove with a small drill bit chucked in a Dremel after it cures. However, the body of the bait looks perfect. I'm not saying the coating will not be somewhat thicker at the tail of the bait compared to the head - but since we're talking fractions of a millimeter, it's not significant.

Edited by BobP

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