crash08

Drying Wheels

22 posts in this topic

Looking for direction on drying wheels, buying and making one. I think it would be more cost effective to make one. Has anyone tried a disco ball motor, I have read some talk about it and come up with the conclusion that you just rig it your own way. But I know there is alot of learning to be learned here, so somebody please theach me.

Crash

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Two popular sources are motors from grill rotisseries and microwaves. I use a puck shaped Macro-Yang synchronous AC10-11 4 RPM motor to drive a small 6 lure turner with alligator clips holding the lures. The frame is cobbled together with some shelving, a 1/2" dowel for the axle and 1/8" dowels epoxied into the axle to hold the lure clips. If you have access to a disco ball motor, I say try it and see how it lasts. Mine has worked for 5 yrs now. The big question is whether the motor has enough torque to rotate the axle and lures without burning out. Anything 2-8 RPM seems to work.

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That sounds good Bob, and I may try it. If anyone else has any solutions I am very open-minded, I really don't want to spend $80-$100 on one.

Crash

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I used a microwave motor that came out of a recycle bin and a few scrap pieces of wood. The only expense I had was for a piece of all thread rod and a few nuts and washers. It will hold eight baits and turns at 6 rpm's. Only cost a couple bucks. If you'd like I can post a picture of it.

RG

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I just finished dismantling my micro. I got lots of goodies from it as well as the motor.

The motor has a half moon drive shaft. This immediately truck me as a problem. I could not find what the half moon located in, to drive, until I fished out the three legged wheely thing that the plate sits on, this had the half moon recess. By cutting off the wheels and fixing this item to the side of the side of the drying wheel, you have a perfect drive connection. You still need some kind of central shaft, to hold it all together. I'm thinking plastic pipe.

Another source of these motors is 'back street' electronics shops. They usually have a bin full of salvaged motors from different sources and can usually be haggled to the right price. Get the guy to test the motor for you before you buy.

Dave

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I just tested out my microwave motor. It wiggled for about 2 seconds, then when "pup" and died. Obviously not mains voltage. I did follow the wiring to make sure where it got its power from and it was definately the mains side of things. I even found it on the web, but none of the pages would open, so I took a chance.

Now I have to buy a new micro and wait six months and a day, for it to fail.

Dave

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Sorry about the motor V-man. It can happen to anyone.

What I want to tell you is about how I used that half moon drive shaft. I just glued some rubber (gasket) material on that missing part of the shaft, then I sanded it around, so that I replaced the missing part with gasket material. I left the diameter in that part just about 0.2 - 0.3 mm bigger than the shaft, and now I just push the disc into the shaft. The disc has in its center a wheel attached to the disc, and the wheel has a hole with the exact diameter as the shaft. The friction the rubber creates is enough to transmit the rotation from the shaft to the disc. And I can simply push out the disc from the shaft if I want to. The wheel is very light, it is formed by 2 CDs, with 4 gasket discs glued between them.

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Heres a picture of my latest turner powered by microwave motors each wheel takes 6 lures upto 12 inches long and the light bulb is to add some heat as i'm now banished to the garage

lures404.jpg

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Thanks for the microwave update. Now I have to go out to the garbage and fish out that plastic wheel that might be needed. My roissiere rack is in another room in the basement. i may have to bring it into the wood shop in the winter months. I have a cabinet that i could remove some shelves to make room for the rack. Has doors, or cover the front with a heavy plastic sheet to keep the dust out. Great ideas here, glad I read today....

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I disassembled a old rotisary that was bought at a garage sale. The motor itself turned to fast because it uses a small gear on the drive shaft that turns the wheel with the corisponding teeth on it. If you come across this Buy a lazy susan from lowes. Next you will need a board 3/4 thick aprox 8"x12". Cut a slot in the wood to fit over the drive shaft, this will serve as your mounting piece for the lazy susan/wheel. Attach the backboard to the motor. Atach the lazy susan to your wheel. Set the wheel in place with the teeth setting on the gear, then trace the outline or holes you need to drill to mount the lazy susan to the backboard. Attach the Lazy susan/Wheel to the backboard. I kept the timer attached to the motor and the plastic casing. Works great i just set the setting to no heat rotation and there is a knob that sets it to turn for up to 2 hours.

Edited by cwillis999

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I used the front wheel of a tricycle, cut off pedals & attach 4.8 rpm rod finish motor, use front fork of trike on one side for lures to pass thru if you do it right the tike bearings will be incoporated into turner so it turns easy, drill holes in tire to accept exacto knife handle & hold in place with a rubberband. I can turn 5 c'baits @ a time. pretty cheap to make & very efficent. Once the bait is placed in knife handle there's no need to touch the bait while painting or clear coating until it's completely finished.

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Two popular sources are motors from grill rotisseries and microwaves. I use a puck shaped Macro-Yang synchronous AC10-11 4 RPM motor to drive a small 6 lure turner with alligator clips holding the lures. The frame is cobbled together with some shelving, a 1/2" dowel for the axle and 1/8" dowels epoxied into the axle to hold the lure clips. If you have access to a disco ball motor, I say try it and see how it lasts. Mine has worked for 5 yrs now. The big question is whether the motor has enough torque to rotate the axle and lures without burning out. Anything 2-8 RPM seems to work.

Bob, and others, I've turned and continue to turn E-tex, Devcon, and many other epoxies at 1 rpm with my Wal-Mart rotisserie-motored turner now for 5+ years. Every balsa crankbait I've made during this time has been turned at that speed with at least one coat of epoxy at some point during the construction process. I have never had any problem related to turning speed. I have encountered coat sag before by purposely applying too much epoxy. No telling how many hours my rig has on it.

I just want everyone to know that if they have a 1 rpm motor or a completed turner that spins at 1 rpm, that it won't be necessary to kick it to the curb! Also, the rumor that epoxy will cure twice as fast at 2 rpm, has not yet been substanciated, no matter what Tater Hog tells you! :)

Dean

Edited by Dean McClain
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I bought a rotisserie kit at Lowes about a month ago for about $35.

-

It comes complete with motor, spit and 2 fork like things w/ 4 prongs on each. I just bought some alligator clips, slid them over the ends of the prongs (snug fit) and mounted the motor and end bracket for the spit on some 2x4's and was ready to go. It looks a little rudimentary, but works great!

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I bought a rotisserie kit at Lowes about a month ago for about $35.

-

It comes complete with motor, spit and 2 fork like things w/ 4 prongs on each. I just bought some alligator clips, slid them over the ends of the prongs (snug fit) and mounted the motor and end bracket for the spit on some 2x4's and was ready to go. It looks a little rudimentary, but works great!

I did something real similar. Same rotisserie, but I used sheet stryofoam, like the blue stuff. Then took a soldering gun and melted holes in it the size of the handles on my lure holders. Like moto said, looks kinda basic, but it works.

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I just want everyone to know that if they have a 1 rpm motor or a completed turner that spins at 1 rpm, that it won't be necessary to kick it to the curb! Also, the rumor that epoxy will cure twice as fast at 2 rpm, has not yet been substanciated, no matter what Tater Hog tells you! :)

Dean

I just want to tell everyone that my first turner had an old microwave motor with 15 rpm, and I had no problems whatsoever using it. The epoxy was not spitted on the ceiling and it leveled out great. Now I use a 5 rpm motor, which is also great.

I think that if you apply, by mistake, too much epoxy on the lure, a higher speed motor than 1 rpm is more likely to solve out your mistake for you.

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I made mine using this rotisserie motor/parts.... rotates about 1 rev per minute...

http://cgi.ebay.com/BBQ-GRILL-BARBEQUE-ELECTRIC-MOTOR-UNIVERSAL-ROTISSERIE_W0QQitemZ360203268998QQcmdZViewItemQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_0?hash=item53ddc9b386#ht_2469wt_941

I think I got it for 15 shipped 2 months ago.....

J.

Thats the same one I have been using and works great for me.

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Rowhunter once told me he likes to use the motor's out of them their RAIN DEER light me for christmas deck car race sins. I been waitin to kill that dam deer for years buy my arrows keep goin right through it. No meat on on that baby.. might as well steal its motor.

Good Luck

The Rookie..aka (Toefungus when I play online poker so watch out smucks I will take your money)

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I bought my motor from this place herbach & rademan I would give you the link but I cant seem to figure out how to with this sites new setup the one I bought is called a timing motor turns at about 10 rpms

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So here's a question unrelated to building the wheel... how long do you usually leave the lure on the wheel after clear coating? Finishing up my first batch now. I used Envirotex Lite. I saw it says that the coating is dust free after 5-7 hours. Do you keep them spinning until dust free, or a full 24 hours? 

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With envirotex I find 7hrs ample turning time, however it wont be hard at that point ,but won't sag either. I can actually stop at 6 hrs no prob usually, but why chance it for an hour more!

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