finlander

Stainless Lips, Making Your Own

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Anyone ever try making, bending their own out of thin s.s.? Like those on the early lures, Creek Chubs? Dont know if that is the one. Some screw into the belly, others are in a slot cut on the nose. Or do I want aluminum, where you can tweak it??

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Anyone ever try making, bending their own out of thin s.s.? Like those on the early lures, Creek Chubs? Dont know if that is the one. Some screw into the belly, others are in a slot cut on the nose. Or do I want aluminum, where you can tweak it??

I haven't ever actualy made a lip in that way, however; I do use indiana or colorado blades for lips. Just cut a slot as if you were using a plastic lip and epoxy it in. Before inserting the lip and epoxying it in though, I screw in a 1 and 1/16 in" screw with a split ring placed parrallel to where the plane of the lip will be and I try to end up with the eye of the screw with split ring centered on the lip. This usualy means only screwing it in about 3/4 in" so as to leave about a 1/4 in" exposed. Lots of times the lure will run correct on the first try but if not just bend the part of the screw (line tie) in the opposite direction slightly. I usually use a #5 indiana blade for a medium diver or a #2 colorado for a shalow runner. Also you can order metal screw on lips from Janns for shallow runners. I like to carve Heddon river runts and use these metal lips from Janns. I think the flash of the metal lip actually atracts fish sometimes and it is a lot tougher than plastic. Is this explaination about as clear as mud? If not ask away.

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I havehad some LARGE ss lips cut for me by a nice man in Michigan's U.P. They are for 12" muskie baits and quite thick. I see these ss lips for like $1 each in Moore's, but that is a couple of years ago. I was just wondering who might have made their own in the past. Have you ever bent these spinnerbait blades?

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I havehad some LARGE ss lips cut for me by a nice man in Michigan's U.P. They are for 12" muskie baits and quite thick. I see these ss lips for like $1 each in Moore's, but that is a couple of years ago. I was just wondering who might have made their own in the past. Have you ever bent these spinnerbait blades?

Yes, I have tried to bend the blade just in front of the split ring hole at close to a 90 degree angle then insert a mounting screw thru the hole to attach the blade/lip to the crankbait. If you tighten the mounting screw very tight and then brush over it with d2t epoxy it will hold. When you bend the blade however the silver finish on the blade usualy cracks and peals some. I still prefer to just cut a slit and insert the blade into the slit and epoxy it in. When it comes to tuning a crankbait I always bend the line tie screw and not the lip itself. If you measure the width of the lip and make the line tie exactly center it gives you a good starting point. Janns recently issued their 2010 catalog and they have a couple of new shapes of metal lure lips you may be interested in also. I cant see why you couldn't cut your own custom metal lips, but I don't know how to cut metal.

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@ finlander

Haven't used stainless steel for lips so far , as it is way too heavy for my smaller lures(4" to 6") , ........I tend to stick to aluminium sheet instead .

But I am using stainless sheet for making casting spoons and spinnerblades and I can say , that it is not easy to work on with just "hobby" tools , ........f.e. 0,5 mm stainless can still be cut with hand shears , but is way too thin and instable for a crankbait lip(only usable for spinnerblades) , thicker stainless sheet absolutely requires bench shears or even a metal bladed bandsaw .

To smoothen and round off the pre-cut edges one should have an industrial grade grinding wheel accessible(I have one at my work) , just belt sanders or sanding discs won't take you far , ........using a file and elbow grease instead could turn out rather exhausting , as the material is very rigid !

On the other hand aluminium sheet of 1 mm(small lures) , 1,5 mm(medium size) and 2,0 mm(8"+ size) comes in very handy , all these thicknesses can be still cut with shears , handsaws and even metal bladed jigsaws with ease , sanding and especially filing the edges is also easy and it also bends quite easy compared to stainless steel .

1,5 mm and 2,0 mm thicknesses are rigid enough to retain bended kinks without a bigger fish straightening them out and also the line ties can be attached straight to the screw -on lips without utilizing a through-wire harness .

But I don't trust the 1,0 mm thickness to rig the line tie directly onto the lip , always use a screw eye or thru-wire harness passing through the lip .

You can view some of such lures in my gallery uploads ,........ if you have further questions , feel free to call in !

greetz , diemai :yay:

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