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Home Made Wire Twister/bender

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I think you might be surprised how much time you might put into one building it your self. But in this hobby I my self has spent long hours making something that was "to hard to build". So if I was going to build one I would use mild steel for most of it then the where points I would use a peace of file. But you need to educate you self on annealing, hardening and tempering. Those three things you need to work with the file or you can hurt you self with a flying splinter of steel trust me they are not fun to dig out. I could see you making one with two bolts, rolled pins, file, any thick steel and some flat stock. I wish you luck and post your progress I will help you where I can as well as any one else on the forum.

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I was wondering if anyone was think about building a wire bender like a bog or the one hagens sells.

There really isn't much to them

I was also thinking if you bought the adapters for the thicker wire the job of making one would be alot easier and much cheaper than buying one

Any Idea

Thanks George

I have a Boogs and to build one the same would take a lot of time and 5-10 times the money.

Geat tool my Boogs if I were to buld lots of long spinner's I would look at the Hagen it's got a longer reach.My Boogs has made 7-8 hundred personal spinners .032 and still works fine.

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I purchased an old boyd pfieffer TACKLECRAFTER book off ebay and it has a homemade one in it. He used nails and an old 2 x 4. I myself use a worth hand held. If your gonna produce a lot of spinners. I'd get the worth hand held I think It cost about $10. I may have an extra worth. I can check later if I do. I'll let you know.

Edited by tacklecrafter
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If anyone has made a Wire Bender can you upload a Picture? Even if it's just 2 nails. :blink:

Here are a few pics I just took of my very simple wire former. Like you said, just 2 nails in a board. I was very careful to space them just right. I use .051 wire for musky baits.

I pounded just the tip of the large (16 p) nail in just to make an impression and I pulled it out. Then I placed the small nail in right next to it pounded it in just slightly higher than the thickness of my wire. Then I up the large nail back into the impression and pounded it in so it was about a 1/4 above the board. I used a bolt cutter to clip the nails to 1 inch before I pounded them in. I used 3/4 inch furniture grade plywood but you could use anything that you have as scraps. The pictures demonstrate how to bend the wire and make your barrel wrap.

Good Luck!

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I have a similar setup to that which Reckless uses. Cheap and gets the job done. My only difference's are

1. I dont use vise grips as the ones I have leave a nic on the loop which I dont like.

2. I modified an electrical panel key Panel-Key-Round.jpg with my dremel to assist with mechanical advantage and ease the burdon on my fingers. They are hollow and fit nicely over the centre nail which the loop if formed from.

Eventually I might invest in a hagens or similar but for the moment a screw and nail does the job well and saves the back pocket.

Angus

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dscf1193me5.th.jpg dscf1192il6.th.jpg

Left to Right

1. Hand bent and used to layout first failed bending jig.

2. Bent on bending jig shown before latest modification

I decided I needed the point to stick out further when open. By making a wider radius bend at the bottom and then back bending the point I was able to do this with enough springyness to the final form.

3. Hand bent modification to number 2 per comments above.

I removed a 3/8 bending pin as used to make number 2, and welded in a 3/4 bending pin in its place.

4. Jig bent on jig as in picture. Oops. Cut the pokey end a little short.

5. Nearly perfect final of protyping process. Slight adjustment made to circumfernence of final peg bend, and back bend.

The final design in number 5 also allows me to cut to length and sharpen the end more easily after the entire bending process is completed.

This is my bending jig. I actually made three of them, four if you count a major modification to this one. This one still needs a little refinement, but I am holding off until I decide on my final wire before making another one. The varying height of the various pegs is so I can make the first couple of bends and swing over the back bending pegs. Then I slide the wire down and make the next bend. If you notice my pins are not all straight. It does not really have any negative affect on my bending process, but I used 1/8 plate for protyping this jig. When I do the final jig I'll use 1/4 or 3/8 which will help me to hold all the pins straight during the welding process.

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I think I am going to set this project aside for now until I get a few more wire samples in to experiment on and decide on my final wire. These are made with .093 diameter 17-7 alloy stainless spring wire. Its my understanding that I would need to heat ina furnace and slow cool the 17-7 to regain full hardness after bending. Supposedly with 302 spring wire that would not be an issue.

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