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Swim Bait Joints
30 replies to this topic
Posted 21 January 2010 - 03:32 AM
WOW all these ideas, and along the lines of what John (JRhopkins) is saying, it's one thing thinking and talking about it, but with swim baits, it's another thing doing it, and you are going to have to do some !!
The fine S/S leader cable works and would work even better on a multiple jointer like the one pictured - to hold it in the blank use some crimps normally used with this stuff (one in each joint worked for me) - also try 'Velcro' strap, just shave the fuzz off it, it's very strong and does not fray, just epoxy it in flat.
As stated with wood capiliary action is a real problem with some of the options, but use PVC foam and these problems disappear, but what reappears is the buoyancy problem, but the more junk you add to the blank, the less buoyancy there will be - from what I have seen, getting the lure near neutral saves a lot of frustration and they seem to swim better, mine did anyway. There is some pictures of these two types of hinging in my gallery somewhere - also if you do a search there is a thread with about 8 pages of more hinge ideas, it was posted about the middle of last year (I think). pete
Posted 21 January 2010 - 10:16 PM
These are made with a non rip nylon. Seems plenty tough for bass. Bass Pro now makes them and they are using something very similar Kevlar.
Posted 22 January 2010 - 06:29 AM
The proto types I turned into Bass Pro were wood. They now make them out of plastic.
Posted 22 January 2010 - 10:19 AM
I've made swimbaits using 200lb braid for hinges. The biggest problem I ran into was the clear coat process. There is just no way to keep the lure from flopping every which way and also no way to avoid the top coat traveling onto the braid. With metal hinges you have some small control, plus removing clear coat from metal hinges is quite easy - just get something small enough to fit into the gaps and scrape away. With braid, one small mistake and it's bye-bye hinge. If you construct your lure with a product that is water resistant from the start, that would help alleviate the final part of the lure process.
Posted 22 January 2010 - 12:07 PM
Those are great looking lures. Congratulations!
Posted 22 January 2010 - 03:55 PM
Painting them really was not a problem. I held it nose and tail with alligator clips. Kinda like the hacksaw trick. I just took 1/8" wide masking tape and wrap it around the cloth section. Then paint away. Spray on a couple of coats of DN. Let dry and remove tape. The joints are so close together, that it is hard to paint the inside. I just kind of feathered out the paint the deeper in the joint I got.
Posted 22 January 2010 - 08:47 PM
This rack is what I use to keep the lure from flopping around. It hooks right to my dryer.
Posted 16 April 2015 - 09:42 PM
How about something like Cortland's toothy critter leader material? Probably could use some sort of crimp in each section. Just a thought, maybe it will shake out more ideas. I just thought maybe this would allow for sealing water out and still be flexible.
Posted 17 April 2015 - 10:36 AM
How about a heavy monofilament? Is it too stiff?
Posted 17 April 2015 - 11:26 AM
I think a lot of these materials are too stiff, seeing as the flexibility is required over such a short distance, from one section of the lure to the next, just a few millimeters.
Edited by Vodkaman, 17 April 2015 - 11:28 AM.