cwillis999

Dippin Dick Nites

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I just bought some Dick Nites and and pondering how I am going to keep the lip or lip slot clean of any topcoat. I am used to brushing on E-tex and installing the lip as the last step in my lure building process. From what i hear brushing Dick Nites can be a difficult task and I want to keep it as simple as possible by dipping and dripping. Thanks in advance for any insight.

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I dip after the lip is installed. Yep, it gets some on the lip but it's very thin, clear stuff - almost invisible on Lexan. It's extra reinforcement on the lip-body margin. Dip it in, withdraw slowly, hang it up. And observe good storage protocol to keep that DN liquid.

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couldnt agree more! the stuff is strong and it definitely wont hurt to make use of its strength by coating the bait and the bill as one!

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How did you get you DN? I have tried three times to get in touch with no luck... I am trying to order a pint of Clear top coat to give it a try, and with the TU member price, you can't beat that deal!

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How did you get you DN? I have tried three times to get in touch with no luck... I am trying to order a pint of Clear top coat to give it a try, and with the TU member price, you can't beat that deal!

if all else fails just call him. hes a great guy and will truly go out on a limb for his customers, especially if they r TU members!

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I dip after the lip is installed. Yep, it gets some on the lip but it's very thin, clear stuff - almost invisible on Lexan. It's extra reinforcement on the lip-body margin. Dip it in, withdraw slowly, hang it up. And observe good storage protocol to keep that DN liquid.

You say dip and hang. Do you not need to use a drying wheel with DN. I currently use D2T and use a wheel to level out.

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If you dip DN you will not need to put it on a drying wheel as the coat goes on evenly all over the bait and then the excess drips off the rear of the bait when it is hung from the front of the bait. When DN is brushed on it can end up being applied thicker in some areas than others. This is why those who brush DN usually put their lures on a drying wheel. To let it have a chance to self level and give itself a uniform coat thickness. I have also heard of some people who intentionally apply heavy coats with a brush and then hang their baits to dry the same way as if they were dipped. Seems like someone who was doing it this way was also having problems with this process.

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I dip baits so just the nose of the bait is covered unless it's a repaint with a badly scratched lip. DN fixes lip scratches nicely. Like a lot of guys who also topcoat with epoxy, I started out putting lures dipped in DN on a lure turner. But if I had too much DN left on the lure when I clamped it on the turner, that caused paint wrinkling. The DN would quickly form a skin but there could be still-liquid DN underneath, sloshing back and forth as the lure rotated and wrinkling the paint. Now I just dip the lure, slowly draw it out of the DN, and hang it up to dry so any excess drips off the tail of the bait. No more problem with wrinkling or bubbles. Secondary benefit = it makes clearcoating even quicker than before :D Dip it, hang it, take a nap!

If there's any problem with DN, it's how to store it so it won't begin curing. TUers have come up with various schemes to keep moisture laden air from their DN while being stored. What works for me is to squirt a little Bloxygen Finish Preserver in the jar as I screw on the lid. You have to do SOMETHING or you will end up wasting half your DN when it begins to cure in the container.

Edited by BobP

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I dip baits so just the nose of the bait is covered unless it's a repaint with a badly scratched lip. DN fixes lip scratches nicely. Like a lot of guys who also topcoat with epoxy, I started out putting lures dipped in DN on a lure turner. But if I had too much DN left on the lure when I clamped it on the turner, that caused paint wrinkling. The DN would quickly form a skin but there could be still-liquid DN underneath, sloshing back and forth as the lure rotated and wrinkling the paint. Now I just dip the lure, slowly draw it out of the DN, and hang it up to dry so any excess drips off the tail of the bait. No more problem with wrinkling or bubbles. Secondary benefit = it makes clearcoating even quicker than before :D Dip it, hang it, take a nap!

If there's any problem with DN, it's how to store it so it won't begin curing. TUers have come up with various schemes to keep moisture laden air from their DN while being stored. What works for me is to squirt a little Bloxygen Finish Preserver in the jar as I screw on the lid. You have to do SOMETHING or you will end up wasting half your DN when it begins to cure in the container.

That works good Bobp Thank you. :D I have been using a olive jar it works great for dipping. I bought Dick Nites in the pint size, it fills up a standard olive jar with a little left over so next time i might pour half and half into two seperate olive jars so i don't end up throwing away the little bit left over. The olive jar minimizes surface area which helps preserve it combined with bloxygen of course. Then I use one layer of saran wrap, spray some bloxygen, cap it, another layer of saran wrap, then i seal the whole jar in a ziploc bag. I found another method for dipping that I would like to share. I foil my baits so I tried foiling over the void then dipping. Then i cut out the foil over the lip slot and glue in my lexan lip. It seems to work ok as long as i lap up the area where the lip meets the body with some D2T to hide the cut top coat layers.

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