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New To Epoxy

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Ok, I've got a plastic lucky craft plug that I've painted using water based paints (createx) and am going to epoxy for the first time. I used to use a

spray on polyurethane acrylic of sorts...similar to an automotive clear coat, but am no longer able to do so. I need to figure out the best method of

epoxy...I will be applying with a brush, with no drying wheel...hand turning it. I know this is not the perfered method, but it's my only option at the

moment and I only have one plug to coat.

I guess my questions are what type of bristle brush is best? What epoxy should I go with/dry time? Are there any tips on doing it this way?

Thanks in advance for any help...it is more than appreciated!!

David

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If you're gonna rotate it by hand, go with the Devcon Two Ton epoxy. It sets up to a non-sag state in about 45 minutes at room temps. Most other popular epoxies contain some solvent and take much longer to set up. You want everything at room temperature (the bait, the epoxy and the air) so the epoxy will not be too thick. I use a 1/4" artist's brush that has moderate flex and clean it afterward in lacquer thinner. When I rotated a few by hand, I put little wire hangers on the line tine and the tail of the bait and just reversed how the bait was hanging every little while - more often for the first 15 minutes, then at longer intervals as the epoxy sets up. You should be able to handle the bait in about 5 hours, 24 hrs for fully cured.

If you want a hard, clear coating, measure it right and mix it really well. For one or two baits, I squeeze out the epoxy into 2 pools, each a little smaller than a quarter. I use a strip cut from a credit card to mix epoxy in a small jar top lined with tin foil. Some guys like the bottom of a pop can. Make sure no unmixed epoxy is hiding anywhere in the container. Poorly mixed epoxy will not harden properly. Poorly measured epoxy will not harden or will yellow prematurely. Lastly, I think there's a knack to brushing it because it's thicker than most guys are used to brushing. You don't want your brush to be dry at any time because that introduces bubbles. Think of it as "laying on the epoxy" instead of brushing it like paint. I epoxy around the lip, then around the hook hangers, then start at the top of the bait and work my way around.

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If you're gonna rotate it by hand, go with the Devcon Two Ton epoxy. It sets up to a non-sag state in about 45 minutes at room temps. Most other popular epoxies contain some solvent and take much longer to set up. You want everything at room temperature (the bait, the epoxy and the air) so the epoxy will not be too thick. I use a 1/4" artist's brush that has moderate flex and clean it afterward in lacquer thinner. When I rotated a few by hand, I put little wire hangers on the line tine and the tail of the bait and just reversed how the bait was hanging every little while - more often for the first 15 minutes, then at longer intervals as the epoxy sets up. You should be able to handle the bait in about 5 hours, 24 hrs for fully cured.

If you want a hard, clear coating, measure it right and mix it really well. For one or two baits, I squeeze out the epoxy into 2 pools, each a little smaller than a quarter. I use a strip cut from a credit card to mix epoxy in a small jar top lined with tin foil. Some guys like the bottom of a pop can. Make sure no unmixed epoxy is hiding anywhere in the container. Poorly mixed epoxy will not harden properly. Poorly measured epoxy will not harden or will yellow prematurely. Lastly, I think there's a knack to brushing it because it's thicker than most guys are used to brushing. You don't want your brush to be dry at any time because that introduces bubbles. Think of it as "laying on the epoxy" instead of brushing it like paint. I epoxy around the lip, then around the hook hangers, then start at the top of the bait and work my way around.

I also use snug fitting plastic disposable gloves when I work with epoxy. Most times I don't get any on my fingers but occasionally it will happen especially when you are turning by hand. Not completely necessary but just a good thing to do.

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Bobp has covered all bases on this. I use the bottom of a soda can, it's works great, just clean the bottom first. The only thing that I do that was not mention, is after I brush the epoxy on the lure, I hold it up to a light so I can see the glare coming of the lure and turn it slowly to make sure I have the lure is completely covered. There's been times when I check the lure later on that I'll find a spot that did not get covered. If that happens just sand the epoxy being careful not to sand through into your paint job and apply another coat of clear.

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The only thing I'd add is that regular old rubbing alcohol does a nice job of cleaning up, especially if you get the epoxy on your hands.

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I've been using the bottom of clear cups (same as dixie but hard and clear) but cut the bottom off with an Xacto. I mix the epoxy for a few seconds then I breathe on the cup heavy this gets any air bubbles to the surface then keep mixing, try to mix back and forth not in a circle. Just a couple small tricks I picked up from a friend on using D2T works very well.

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Ok...I had success in my first attempt at epoxy, BUT there are two spots to add a dab of epoxy. One pinhole towards the 'butt' of the plug and one little area near one of the eyes. Do spots the size of a pin need to be sanded and epoxied or can I just mix a tiny amount and dab the missed area? If a dab will work, do I need to wait until the first coating is fully cured the 24 hours or can I dab now, after 15 hours? Thanks again for all of the help guys!

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I've used the "dab" method occasionally when I've missed a spot on an epoxy fly. Seems to work fine, but just be careful not to overdo it or you'll wind up with a bump. (not that the fish would care) The dab seems to adhere to the epoxy it comes into contact with. I don't have any experience with epoxying plugs, but I suppose epoxy is epoxy.

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Dabs applied...not the smoothest dab job per say, but it's good to be able to play with the epoxy

and see how it works. Thanks to everyone for all of the help...ill post some pictures as soon as the

bait is cured!

David

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couple ideas and a couple of questions.....I use the small plastic mixing cups that you buy at hobby stores and the cheap epoxy brushes. After I'm done, I wash and clean the cups and brush with lauquer thinner with a final rinse of acetone. Kinda of a pain but I get a lot of uses out of a pair of cups and a brush and saves me money.

I also put a drop or two of the lauquer thinner in my epoxy as I mix it to thin it out a bit. This allows me to do one or two more baits with each mix. You have to expierment and add literaly, with a eye dropper, a drop or two at a time. Too much and the epoxy gets too thin and doesn't work too well. Just add a drop or two as you mix it and check the consistancy.

Now a question, can you sand epoxy, say if you have to add another coat, without messing it up and have it turn out clear? The sand paper doesn't put marks etc on it, scratches? I would imagine you use light grit sandpaper?

Thanks and I hope this info helps

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...can you sand epoxy, say if you have to add another coat, without messing it up and have it turn out clear? The sand paper doesn't put marks etc on it, scratches? I would imagine you use light grit sandpaper?

Yes, you can use a fine grit paper or I used a scotch bright pad and just lightly rubbed over it to apply the second coat. All you want to do is give the second coat something to bite into.

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Not the greatest job in the world, but I don't think the fish will mind...lol. I'm just upset I lost access to an air compressor so I had to hand paint this plug, but it's a top water wake bait so I don't think it will matter. Anyway, thanks again to everyone who helped me out...

David

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