sowbelly772004

Automotive Paint

12 posts in this topic

I'm new to this and I'm going to try to start painting my own lures. I work at a bodyshop and have all the automotive paint I want. Was wondering what all of you thought about using it and if the automotive clear would stand up. Any suggestions, tips, or any help would be appreciated

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I'm new to this and I'm going to try to start painting my own lures. I work at a bodyshop and have all the automotive paint I want. Was wondering what all of you thought about using it and if the automotive clear would stand up. Any suggestions, tips, or any help would be appreciated

All I use are urethanes and 2 part urethane clear. I don't think there is anything better for putting the pattern on the bait. People will argue about the clear coat, but so far I have found it to be perfectly acceptable.

I use mainly white pearl and silver base coat and candys over that. You can get some amazing depth to the work that way.

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Cant comment on the clear coat, however, i have used automotive paint before and I liked it. Went on very smooth with little or no spatter and dried straight away. The downside for me was minimum quantity (i.e cost). In the end I switched to water based to reduce costs and they seem to work just as well. If I had a readily available and cheap source as you have (????) I would still be using it.

Angus

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It should hold up just fine. A few makers use 2 part auto clears. Most of us don't because we paint at home and don't want to deal with the toxic fumes, but the ones I've seen look great.

Edited by BobP

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I use the automotive epoxy primer sealer over plastic bait repaints and my own baits in Cedar and Mahogany. You can brush in quickly the first coat if you really want to push it in to the grain and shoot a second coat. I reduce the primer by 10% and shoot it with an airbrush with the large tip. I also seal some of my baits in propionate and on those I scuff with 320 and use a light coat of bumper adhesion promoter before the primer. I use the urethane paints with two part clear and it holds up very well and I use them for Muskie. It is a system engineered to work together. You can really play with the paint in layering and mixing colors . I get 2 oz and 4oz plastic bottles from tcp and reduce the paint for the airbrush 2:1. Very few paints spray as fine as urethane. And you can not beat your price, my friend cleaned out thier paint room and I am set for years. good luck and have fun. I do use a good small booth and wear a forced air respirator to be extra safe but in air brush quantities my booth keeps up more than I actually need.

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Hit up the body shops for old paint most of them throw it away. A few baits will get you enough paint to finish thousands of lures.

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KC is right. What they throw away is criminal. From personal experience, they will be glad to help.

Dave

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Sowbelly.......

I'm sure working in a body shop you know how bad for you these paints are. So you should know the proper safety precautions you need to take using them. If you have good ventilation they work great. I've been using them for a couple years now and IMO they are superior to water based. The clears are just as tough as any other I've used while at the same time being easier to apply.

If you're set up for spraying them safely, go for it.

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Sowbelly.......

I'm sure working in a body shop you know how bad for you these paints are. So you should know the proper safety precautions you need to take using them. If you have good ventilation they work great. I've been using them for a couple years now and IMO they are superior to water based. The clears are just as tough as any other I've used while at the same time being easier to apply.

If you're set up for spraying them safely, go for it.

I have had great results with dupont chroma-clear but its a little pricey.

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I have had great results with dupont chroma-clear but its a little pricey.

I'm spraying water based colors on blades and spoons (just started) and my buddy paints cars for a living. He just gave me 1/4 gallon of Dupont speed clear and some hardner, problem is I'm not set up to paint indoors with ventilation but know the automotive clear top coat is a great way to go. I will for sure give it a whirl once the weather gets good here in the Northeast or until I get a proper booth with ventilation mask etc.

I have a free source to it so taking advantage of it would be wise on my part, plus I know most of the manufactures are using this process.

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I am a painter by trade and I highly recomend any of the major automotive refinishing systems. If you are in a body shop all of your sand papers, scuff pads and everything else will work fine. Sand and prepp all of your surfaces as if it where a car, the paint will stick forever and shine. If your shop has a paint bank then mixing your own colors is a dream.

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I'm using ppg 3000.......tough as all hell, and you can handle itan hour after you spray.........buffable in 90 minutes....but really isn't fully cured for 3 days....but man it's tough, and lays nice and flat with little experience spraying it.

Don't know what you consider pricey........I think it was about $60 for a quart, but I have very very little waste. That's the beauty of a two part. And for clear coats, it doesn't get any clearer than an auto clear and they'll NEVER yellow on you.

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