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Help - What's Happening Here With Dn ?
24 replies to this topic
Posted 10 March 2010 - 10:50 PM
Fishhunter, it's interesting to hear about some of the processes and materials used in factory production crankbaits. Thanks!
Posted 11 March 2010 - 06:29 AM
It is not a crapshoot as long as you're using Createx or Parma, with Dicknite's Topcoat, which contains solvent, and the paint is heat-set thoroughly. When you start mixing in other brands of paint, some of whom may not heat-setting properties, then you're crapshooting. A good rule of thumb is that, if it is a waterbase acrylic (not all acrylics are waterbase), that is commonly used, or listed as can be used, for T-shirt painting, then it can be heat-set.
There are a lot of enamels which are traditionally baked on for durability during manufacturing, but those are a horse (or a lure) of a different color.
BTW, I know one person who uses Component System's Seal Coat as an in-between coating before using Dicknite's on a paint that isn't Createx or Parma. I'm guessing it would work as the same over foil, which needs an in-between coat before using DN, I just haven't tried it yet...
Posted 11 March 2010 - 12:22 PM
I use DN over Createx almost exclusively, both brushed on and dipped, and have never had a problem with the paint wrinkling or coming off. I heat set thoroughly after every coat of paint. If you think about it water is a solvent to water based paints if they haven't been cured.
Posted 11 March 2010 - 04:13 PM
I heat set my lure for the first time yesterday after every coat using the hairdryer. On the final coat I held the dryer on it for 4 minutes and when I glanced down the paint had a big crack in it.....I'm am guessing there is an extent to heat setting? I think I over did it ...owell thats how you learn
Posted 11 March 2010 - 08:01 PM
Some woods are a little more prone to that than others, and it depends on moisture content also. One way to eliminate that happening is to seal the lure with a coat of epoxy, which is what I do to every lure I make. After sealing, I'll lightly scuff the coat, and remove any residue with soap and water, as my lure at that point is totally sealed except for my lip slot on cranks where I'm careful not to get that wet. Then paint as usual, and you shouldn't have to worry about too much heat as long as you keep the hair dryer moving slowly.
On wood I think may be a tad heavy on the moisture content, I'll microwave my lure blanks to remove some of the moisture, just a little at a time, feeling my way along.