24 replies to this topic

[BobP]

Fishhunter, it's interesting to hear about some of the processes and materials used in factory production crankbaits. Thanks!

[Lure--Prof]

baitmaker2, on 10 March 2010 - 11:33 AM, said:

I read somewhere that some professional painters actually bake their paint jobs. Don't know how this works and I would be very fearful of putting one of my baits in an oven.
I agree with the experts on here that it is a very smart idea to heat set your paint with a hair dryer after every coat .

The wrinkling on the bait in question looks more like a compatability issue than anything else. I have gotten this reaction on ocassion when using clear lacquer as a topcoat. It is a crapshoot in my opinion when clearing with a solvent based product over water based paint. You might find the magic formula but then again you might ruin several baits before you do.

With all the problems I have had in the past with wrinkling paint I only use SC9000 or 2ton epoxy now as topcoats.

It is not a crapshoot as long as you're using Createx or Parma, with Dicknite's Topcoat, which contains solvent, and the paint is heat-set thoroughly. When you start mixing in other brands of paint, some of whom may not heat-setting properties, then you're crapshooting. A good rule of thumb is that, if it is a waterbase acrylic (not all acrylics are waterbase), that is commonly used, or listed as can be used, for T-shirt painting, then it can be heat-set.

There are a lot of enamels which are traditionally baked on for durability during manufacturing, but those are a horse (or a lure) of a different color.

BTW, I know one person who uses Component System's Seal Coat as an in-between coating before using Dicknite's on a paint that isn't Createx or Parma. I'm guessing it would work as the same over foil, which needs an in-between coat before using DN, I just haven't tried it yet...

Dean

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[RayburnGuy]

I use DN over Createx almost exclusively, both brushed on and dipped, and have never had a problem with the paint wrinkling or coming off. I heat set thoroughly after every coat of paint. If you think about it water is a solvent to water based paints if they haven't been cured.

RG

[FISHUNTER]

I heat set my lure for the first time yesterday after every coat using the hairdryer. On the final coat I held the dryer on it for 4 minutes and when I glanced down the paint had a big crack in it.....I'm am guessing there is an extent to heat setting? I think I over did it ...owell thats how you learn

[Lure--Prof]

FISHUNTER, on 11 March 2010 - 04:13 PM, said:

I heat set my lure for the first time yesterday after every coat using the hairdryer. On the final coat I held the dryer on it for 4 minutes and when I glanced down the paint had a big crack in it.....I'm am guessing there is an extent to heat setting? I think I over did it ...owell thats how you learn

Some woods are a little more prone to that than others, and it depends on moisture content also. One way to eliminate that happening is to seal the lure with a coat of epoxy, which is what I do to every lure I make. After sealing, I'll lightly scuff the coat, and remove any residue with soap and water, as my lure at that point is totally sealed except for my lip slot on cranks where I'm careful not to get that wet. Then paint as usual, and you shouldn't have to worry about too much heat as long as you keep the hair dryer moving slowly.

On wood I think may be a tad heavy on the moisture content, I'll microwave my lure blanks to remove some of the moisture, just a little at a time, feeling my way along.