12 replies to this topic
Posted 03 March 2010 - 09:26 AM
I just recently started re-painting baits. I might be doing it wrong. I have been sanding each bait down and then washing in dish soap. I then just start painting using Cretex and Polytranspar. I'm using white or Black Cretex for the primer. Is there something I should be using that is really a primer, or will the regular paint work? Also what is heat seting? I have just let the paint air dry after each coat. I haven't clear coated any yet so don't know if I'm going to have a problem. Please let me know if I'm doing something wrong. Also what do you guys use to mix your clear finish in for diping?
Posted 03 March 2010 - 11:13 AM
Sounds like you're doing the right things for repainting, but you do need to heat set your paint. Ideally, you do it with each coat, so it's set all the way through.
The Createx and Polytranspar paints need to be heat set, which causes a molecular change in the paint and makes it waterproof. They are, first and foremost, T shirt paints, which are meant to be heat set with a clothes iron, so they can be washed.
Take your time, since you've got a few layers of paint on the bait, and use a hair dryer, first on low, and then on high, to try and get all of the layers heated enough to cause the change.
Kingfisher posted the exact temps needed here a while ago, but I don't remember what they were. You could use the search feature, or contact Createx, to find out what temps are needed.
As far as clear coating goes, what type of clear are you planning to use?
Edited by mark poulson, 03 March 2010 - 11:15 AM.
Posted 03 March 2010 - 12:12 PM
I bought some envirotex. Wanted some DN but he wasn't able to ship it right away.
Posted 03 March 2010 - 01:50 PM
When I used to use Etex, I was able to clear coat the same day I painted. I just made sure that I had heat set the paint thoroughly.
Posted 03 March 2010 - 02:38 PM
Hunter, you don't need to use a primer. The paint should adhere just fine and the topcoat will make it durable.
Posted 04 March 2010 - 01:13 AM
I dont even spray a primer coat anymore. I dip the bait in white paint and let it run off and air dry. I also don't heat set until the painting is completely done. UNLESS I wrapping mesh around the bait for scales. Then it needs heat or the mesh will scratch the paint off. If you heat set after every coat eventually your going to split a plastic bait. Re-paints arent easy to split, but those cheap copy lures will come a part pretty easy if your not careful with the heat.
Posted 14 March 2010 - 12:36 PM
When you say dip it in white paint what kind of paint do you mean I'ne been spraying them with white createx opaque and its quite a lengthy process to get all original colors covered
Posted 14 March 2010 - 03:24 PM
Lose the dish soap. Soaps can leave wax and other residue that will effect every coat thereafter. Instead try using denatured alcohol its cheap and it really gets things clean. Tack cloth is another thing to keep handy to remove dust and particles.
Posted 14 March 2010 - 05:53 PM
Bryan, a white color basecoat goes a lot faster if you use paint designed for it, i.e., a highly pigmented "cover white". I used plain cheap Apple Barrel white for several years and it worked fine shot through a large tip Badger airbrush. But the large pigment particle size gave the surface a texture like pebbles after drying. A couple of years ago, I switched to Polytranspar Super Hide White, which shoots easier (it's formulated for airbrushing while Apple Barrel is not), covers quickly with lots of pigment, and dries fast to a hard smooth white finish. It's the best "cover white" acrylic I've found.
Posted 15 March 2010 - 01:12 AM
A buddy gave me a gallon of white Badger airbrush paint that I use for dipping. Smooth as glass w/o any cobwebs. I have some superhide white, but I've never tried dipping it. It would probably work.
Posted 16 March 2010 - 02:51 PM
I dip my baits in a flat white rustolium. You can get it a home depot. I thin it a little and fill a olive jar. I can then reseal the jar and my paint stays good. The amount of thinner will depend on the temp where you are. I also submerg my raw wood bait for 30 minutes in a minwax wood hardner product. This can be done after all your sanding is done as it doesn't raise the grain. I wipe down the baits as soon as I pull them out of the wood hardner with paper towels. I let them air dry over night and then lightly sand them before dipping into the flat white. I like to let them sit for a day or two before painting. You can probably paint them with in a few hours, but I like to let them dry completely to be safe. I'm still a little new at this, but these tricks have worked great for me. I'm working with poplar and I don't know how my method would work with other woods. You can check out some of my baits at www.catchemcarobaits.com
Edited by CatchemCaro, 16 March 2010 - 02:52 PM.
Posted 16 March 2010 - 03:04 PM
Be careful using a tack rag. Some can leave a residue when they are new that some paints don't like.
Posted 16 March 2010 - 04:10 PM
Instead of sanding and washing, I would try washing then sanding - just brush off any sanding/dust.
I wouldn't want any soap residue or solvents playing havoc with the adhesion of my finish.
Edited by Libs, 16 March 2010 - 04:11 PM.