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Cavities Forming In Tails Of Top Pour Swimbaits Rate Topic: -----

#1 User is offline   mainbutter 

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Posted 08 March 2010 - 11:11 AM

So I've decided I wanted to ask for a bit of help.

When I pour top-pour swimbait molds, after I've filled the mold and as the plastic cools, the tail section starts to get a cavity at the top (like a sinkhole developing in the middle of the meaty top part of the paddle tail)

I've been remedying this by, as the cavity forms, just adding a bit more plastic, but I end up with a cosmetically poor tail with what looks like little tumors on top of the tail where I added a few drops of extra plastic to fill the cavity.

Does anyone have a good solution that will help fix the cosmetic issue?
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#2 User is offline   andy1976 

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Posted 08 March 2010 - 11:21 AM

Your not the only one with that problem. It's because the plastic shrinks as it cools and that's probably the most noticeable spot. Try over pouring just a little in that area. Good luck. Andy
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#3 User is offline   nova 

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Posted 08 March 2010 - 12:00 PM

View Postmainbutter, on 08 March 2010 - 04:11 PM, said:

So I've decided I wanted to ask for a bit of help.

When I pour top-pour swimbait molds, after I've filled the mold and as the plastic cools, the tail section starts to get a cavity at the top (like a sinkhole developing in the middle of the meaty top part of the paddle tail)

I've been remedying this by, as the cavity forms, just adding a bit more plastic, but I end up with a cosmetically poor tail with what looks like little tumors on top of the tail where I added a few drops of extra plastic to fill the cavity.

Does anyone have a good solution that will help fix the cosmetic issue?



Easy fix. As the sink hole starts to form just add more plastic as you have been doing. Then take a micro torch and just pass the flame over the spot. This will level everything off and it will look perfect. Just don't hold the flame too close or too long as this can burn the plastic.

With a little practice this can be done quite quickly and evenly.

www.novalures.com

This post has been edited by nova: 08 March 2010 - 12:02 PM

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#4 User is offline   mainbutter 

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Posted 08 March 2010 - 12:03 PM

View Postnova, on 08 March 2010 - 11:00 AM, said:

Easy fix. As the sink hole starts to form just add more plastic as you have been doing. Then take a micro torch and jsut pass the flame over the spot. This will level everything off and it will look perfect. Just don't hold the flame too close or too long as this can burn the plastic.

With a little practice this can be done quite quickly and evenly.

www.novalures.com



ooh good idea! I would have not thought of that b/c of open flames. When you say micro torch, do you mean basically a butane cigarette lighter?
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#5 User is offline   MEckl8321 

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Posted 08 March 2010 - 01:09 PM

View Postmainbutter, on 08 March 2010 - 11:03 AM, said:

ooh good idea! I would have not thought of that b/c of open flames. When you say micro torch, do you mean basically a butane cigarette lighter?

My link this one from Home Depot should do the trick. There are even less expensive ones there as well.

This post has been edited by MEckl8321: 08 March 2010 - 01:10 PM

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#6 User is offline   nova 

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Posted 08 March 2010 - 07:16 PM

I just use a cheap one. I think I paid $10 for the kit. If you are worried about open flames you can use a heat gun but they are more costly than a torch.

www.novalures.com
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#7 User is offline   gunnie3035 

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Posted 09 March 2010 - 04:59 AM

I wouldnt worry about it. I've never seen one [even a factory bait] w/o the cavity in the tail. If it really bugs you pour the bait in two different pours even it your using the same color. Fill up the tail and tilt the mold forward or vise-versa and let it cool for a minute or so. When you make the second pour it won't shrink very much.
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#8 User is offline   longhorn 

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Posted 09 March 2010 - 07:41 AM

I have several sizes of famous hand-poured swimbaits...they all have the tail dimple. All the swimbaits I sell have the dimple and I've not gotten any complaints. Just passing that on. Let us know which method works best...now you've got me curious.
“Many men go fishing all of their lives without knowing it is not fish they are after.” Henry David Thoreau
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#9 User is offline   mainbutter 

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Posted 09 March 2010 - 12:37 PM

Thanks for the tips guys :D

And to the "dont worry about it" people, yup I completely agree it doesn't really matter. It's completely for cosmetic purposes, I'm sure the fish don't care and it doesn't affect the action of the tail. This is a hobby for me, so time spent perfecting anything is time that I'm enjoying myself. If I'm going through the trouble of making homemade lures, I'm going to go ahead and make them as pretty as I can to the best of my ability!
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#10 User is offline   nova 

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Posted 09 March 2010 - 02:06 PM

View Postmainbutter, on 09 March 2010 - 05:37 PM, said:

Thanks for the tips guys :D

And to the "dont worry about it" people, yup I completely agree it doesn't really matter. It's completely for cosmetic purposes, I'm sure the fish don't care and it doesn't affect the action of the tail. This is a hobby for me, so time spent perfecting anything is time that I'm enjoying myself. If I'm going through the trouble of making homemade lures, I'm going to go ahead and make them as pretty as I can to the best of my ability!



Good man. Well said. :yay: :yay:

www.novalures.com
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#11 User is offline   ghostbaits 

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Posted 10 March 2010 - 12:46 PM

A solution I used until I could "let it go" was to pour the bait and then go back to the tail area and pour an overage amount on just the very end of the tail portion of the mold. Then, get a razor blade or razor knife refill blade and gently slide the blade along even with your mold to get a perfectly flat tail portion.

This only works with aluminum molds though!!!!

Jim
Go Ghost or Go Home!
www.GhostBaits.com

See them now....30 new colors in 30 days!!!
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