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Through Wire On A Lathe

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#1 garyo1954



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Posted 12 March 2010 - 12:00 AM

Don't get me to lying, it wasn't what I started to do, but sometimes you make the best of your mistakes. And like crackerjacks there is a surprise!

This one started out at a spring and clean sale by one of the lumber yards where they had six 1 X 12 X 48" Eastern Cedar boards at $1.50 per board. You may never use that much cedar but for that price you can work around the check, cup, cracks, and knots.

1. I took a 20" section and ripped it into 1 1/2" widths . Then routed the wire channel using a 1/8" bit. I haven't put a belly hook channel in since we're not sure where the belly is going to be at this point. For more info on this see hazmail's micro through wire tutorial in the the tutorial section.

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2. We'll use 1 1/4" brads to put out two halves together. These will still spark when sanded or cut and might throw off small bits of metal. Something to be aware of anytime. Always check lumber you buy for staples too! Naturally this is where a bright idea hits and I use a round over on the edges. Lathe has entered my subconscious even if my brain is slow. (These can still be cut to length, lip slot cut and shaped on a band saw, scroll saw, or sander. They can't be turned on a late with the wire channel that low.)

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3. The only way to use a two part blank with a channel on a lathe is to have the channel in the center.

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4. Now that we've done that we can join the two halves with hot glue and clamp them for a few second to squeeze the joint tight. I used general purpose glue, but there may be better alternatives.

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5. At this point we can put them on the lathe and make our cuts. Several things to be aware of.
First, don't put the blank in the lathe until you sand the seams smooth
Don't over tighten or bow the blank. You want it snug, not torqued. I turned this at the lowest speed (900 rpms I think).
That 1/8" channel is now in the center of the blank, or slightly off, so be aware you can't cut the ends as normal, i.e., no points. We can always shape the head and tail after it comes off the lathe.

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6. Here are the sections. The one inch piece at the bottom is left to separate the clam shell without damaging the main body. At this point we can drill our belly hook channel, shape the head and tail, sand some flat sides, add gills, a mouth, etc. A lip slot is not impossible but a bit harder than cutting one on a square block.

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The big plus here is two symmetrically rounded sides with through wire construction
And the possibility of molds.

See what a mistake gets you? (more ideas in this case)

Many thanks to hazmail for his excellent tutorial. :worship:


Edited by garyo1954, 12 March 2010 - 12:03 AM.