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2 Part Clear Coat ?
11 replies to this topic
Posted 17 March 2010 - 11:29 AM
I have been using a 2 part clear coat, 50 / 50. It works great when it's mixed perfect, but if it's off just a little it stays tacky. I clear coat 6" swim / wake baits, so I only mix up enough to do maybe 5 baits at a time. All I do is eyeball the amount I pour into my Dixie cups. I use maybe 3/16" in each cup before mixing them. It seems as if one out of two batchs of clear coat leave my baits tacky. I have put a second coat on them and the problem is solved, but I'm wondering how you guys measure your 2 part clear coats and do you also have the same problem once in awhile? I have even tried to make sure if any thing I use just a little extra hardner. Should I be using a scale to make absolutely sure my mixure is 50/50? The time spent re-clear coating is time wasted big time! Help
Posted 17 March 2010 - 11:46 AM
When I use Etex, which is also a 50/50 mix, I use the small plastic mixing cups with the graduated markings on the side. I get mine from TCP Global.
Posted 17 March 2010 - 04:49 PM
For smaller amounts syringes work very well. I got a couple from Jann's and use them with Etex with no problems.
Posted 17 March 2010 - 05:03 PM
I use syringes, but a friend of mine, who is used to get a different one, had the same problem you have, until he understood that the 50/50 part was not to be intended in volume, but in weight.
Don't know the resin that you use so I can't be helpful, but almost always syringes or a graduated container help a lot to be more precise!
Posted 17 March 2010 - 08:40 PM
I use syringes and I run into that problem quite often.When I used D2t I never had that problem,I curse WAL-MART,daily for taking it off the shelves.
Edited by CMARTIN269, 17 March 2010 - 08:41 PM.
Posted 18 March 2010 - 06:50 AM
E-tex should be measured in 2 equal amounts, not weighed: This is according to Envirotex-Lite instructions for use.
I use metal measuring spoons, and bend a piece of wire to conform to the shape of the spoon to scrape it out completely. I mix epoxies with wire that conforms to the the shape of an upside down aerosol can bottom too. By never lifting the wire from the epoxy while mixing, I can mix rapidly, thoroughly, and bubble free. The shape of the can bottom, combined with the squeegee action of the wire, insures that no epoxy goes unmixed. I clean everything up with alcohol and am ready for the next batch. Perfect mixing, no bubbles, no cost, no waste, easy clean-up, what's not to love?
Clean-up tip #512: Epoxy beginning to set up in the can bottom? Pour a little rubbing alcohol on it, then scrape it out with a large rounded circuit board lure lip. Be fairly amazed as the stiff epoxy loads up on the lip and stays there until it is easily removed with a little more alcohol on a paper towel; the same alcohol soaked towel that you wiped the last bit of residue from the can top will work fine...all easily done in less time than it took to type this.
Don't Worry Be Happy money-saving tip # 233: Use this system with Devcon 2-ton purchased in bottles, save money over the syringe packs, smile, and quit cursing Wal-Mart.
Posted 18 March 2010 - 07:12 AM
Until I can mix batches consistantly without the tacky ,sticky baits I can't be happy ,and I will have to continue to curse WAL-MART.
Posted 18 March 2010 - 07:15 AM
Also ,I like the ease of application,of the e- tex over devcon but most everything else I prefer D2T.
Posted 18 March 2010 - 07:16 AM
I am using some small plastic cups that were purchased at the local hospital drug store. The cups are graduated in incruments of a teaspoon and are extremely accurate when measuring out the coating. You can put the first amount in the cup then add the second amount to the came cup because it has the measurements stamped on the side of the cup. Best of all the cups are very cheap.
Posted 18 March 2010 - 12:00 PM
i've found etex needs you to be more accurate with the measuring. measuring cups are ok but syringes work better for small amounts. d2t is more forgiving with measuring and is what i find myself using more often. i coat only 1 or 2 lures at a time so i only mix a small amount. With d2t i just measure with disposable plastic spoons. eg 2 spoonfuls of each part can do about 1 6 inch lure.
Posted 18 March 2010 - 01:03 PM
Here's the method I use to ensure that I get good results with epoxy top-coat. I use Flex Coat Ultra V finish, but some guys on here have said that Flex Coat and E-tex are about the same so it should work with Envirotex as well as Flex Coat.
This is actually based on Fatfinger's epoxy tutorial on this site but I've modified it to fit my lure-building methods.
Anyway here it is:
What you will need:
Epoxy finish (NOT Devcon; it's a 30 minute epoxy and so it will set up to fast to use this method)
Mixing bowl (preferably foil) with a lid or something to cover it with
Heat gun (a hairdryer blows too hard and isn't hot enough)
Timer or stopwatch (this isn't necessary but it will make timing the mixing easier)
Note: I find that this method works best with amounts of epoxy from 6cc's to 10cc's. Any larger and it may not get mixed thoroughly; any smaller and it really isn't worth the effort.
1. Wash your hands to remove any dust.
2. Wipe down the mixing bowl and stick with Isopropyl alcohol to remove any dust. Even the smallest speck of dust can ruin the finish.
3. Draw up equal amounts of resin and catalyst. It may help to heat the parts with the heat gun, as heating thins them slightly and makes the epoxy flow better.
4. Squirt the finish into your mixing bowl, heating each part as you do. Heating the epoxy makes it a little easier to mix as it makes it more liquid.
5. Start mixing. Mix for three minutes, heating it every once in a while to Plaster of Paris the bubbles that form. Make sure you scrape the sides of the mixing bowl with the stick. At the end of three minutes heat it again, but don't overheat it. Place the lid over the mixing bowl and let it sit for ten minutes.
6. While the epoxy is setting, wash your brush with soap and water. You don't want any dust in your finish, and washing the brush will remove most of the dust.
7. At the end of ten minutes, remove the lid and mix it again for one minute, heating it occasionally. Then heat it again and let it sit for five more minutes.
8. You are (finally ) ready to coat your baits. You can use the heat gun to Plaster of Paris bubbles on the baits, but make extremely sure not to overheat them. To much heat and the paint underneath the epoxy will bubble. Once your baits are coated, hang them to dry on whatever you normally use.
9. Clean up (I'm not very good about doing this part ).
That's the technique I use, and if it is time-consuming, I haven't once had problems with the epoxy not curing fully since I started using it.
Posted 18 March 2010 - 01:53 PM
Assuming you don't have a "bad batch" (rare), there are only 2 things that cause tacky epoxy finish. As mentioned, the first is poor measuring. The second and just as important is failure to mix the epoxy THOROUGHLY. The more molecules of the hardener and resin you can get next to each other, the better the epoxy will cure. I use Devcon Two Ton epoxy and mix the heck out of it with a piece cut from an old credit card for about a minute. When finished, it has lots of air bubbles but those disappear if you brush it on the lure with a fine bristled artist's brush. If you MUST, you can mix in a few drops of denatured alcohol after you mix it up to thin the epoxy and extend it's brush time a little. If you see a bubble after application, breath on it and it will usually Plaster of Paris. I don't heat the epoxy after application because as often as not, I screw up the finish doing that.