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Devcon 2 Ton Or Etex?
10 replies to this topic
Posted 20 March 2010 - 05:10 PM
I've been using polyurethane as a clearcoat and it's not good enough: it chips easily and yellows.
So I'll probably change to Etex ot Devcon 2 ton. Which is better?
And if you know where I can get it it will really help.Thnx.
Posted 20 March 2010 - 08:15 PM
I have been unable to find the Etex at my Micheals. Where is that stuff usually placed?
Posted 20 March 2010 - 10:08 PM
At the store I go to it was in the aisle next to the cheap fabric style (Americana) paints. It was with the spray adhesives and all the other types of glues the carry. All I could get at my store was the larger quart? size. I suppose I'll use it all eventually...
Posted 20 March 2010 - 10:17 PM
The real name of Etex is Envirotex Lite. It's usually found in the foiling and decoupage section at Michaels. Comes in 2 ea 8 oz plastic bottles in a blue&white box. Etex works well but is thinner than Devcon Two Ton so requires multiple coats that are separately cured. Devcon is an epoxy glue and it is thicker than Etex, hardens faster and takes one coat. Devcon is more expensive. Some like one, some the other. IMO, when fully cured into coatings of equal thickness, Devcon and Etex work equally well.
Posted 20 March 2010 - 10:23 PM
What about new lustre 55?
Edited by steest, 20 March 2010 - 10:24 PM.
Posted 20 March 2010 - 10:57 PM
If you cant find etex look for "PARKS super glaze" by zinnser. They stock it at home depot here in cali. Maybe they will have it out by you at a building supply store. It works great.. if you adjust the cure temp you can get thicker or thinner coats.. i like 68F. I still use 3coats so the stripers dont tear the baits to shreds. The cure time is long for a full hard set but you can add additional coats before the previous is done.. 4 hrs I believe. $30 will do a ton of baits.
My .02 cents
Posted 20 March 2010 - 11:16 PM
Yeah, many brands have been used successfully to coat crankbaits. JMHO, any epoxy that delays hardening for at least a few minutes so you can brush it on is a viable candidate because when cured out, most epoxies have very similar performance. The differences are usually more about application and curing time than performance. Some mix up thinner than others, some have UV inhibitors, some take longer than others to harden to a non-sag state, etc, etc.
Whichever you choose, measure it well and mix it thoroughly. Failure to do so causes almost 100% of epoxy failure to cure or yellowing problems. Oh, and never use a quick cure 5 min epoxy. They cure too fast to apply with a brush, won't level out to a smooth finish, and will yellow prematurely.
Edited by BobP, 20 March 2010 - 11:18 PM.