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Cutting Out Airbrush Handles

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anybody ever cut out a section of the screw-off handle on their airbrush so they can loosen the needle chuck and remove the needle without disassembling the brush?

for some reason the handle is difficult to screw back on to my Iwata Revolution airbrush after i unscrew it. the threads will lock up midway through rotation, when its only halfway screwed in. i don't know why it does this, it really frustrates me.

so i was thinking of either cutting out the handle like mentioned above or if any of you guys are having the same problem what are some ways to fix it?

Edited by DSV
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The back handle is heavy chromed steel or brass and I doubt it would work unless you're a machinist with the right equipment. After you had a cutout on both sides of the handle, you'd also need a hole in the rear through which to remove the needle. It might be easier to find the problem with the threads and fix it. Unless you damaged the threads inside the body, the most likely problem would be somewhere on the exposed threads on the handle. Sometimes you can file down a bad thread with a diamond file. Alternative - a new handle costs $15 from Coast Airbrush.

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hmmm i hope i didn't damage the threads on the inside. i don't think i did because sometimes it will screw on without a hitch. other times it just locks up when i'm screwing it on.

sometimes it seems to be that the thing that puts tension on the trigger (i'm not sure what this piece is called) is screwed too far out (i like the trigger light) and this is preventing the handle to screw on all the way. but other times even if i have this piece screwed way in the handle will still lock up.

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hmmm i hope i didn't damage the threads on the inside. i don't think i did because sometimes it will screw on without a hitch. other times it just locks up when i'm screwing it on.

sometimes it seems to be that the thing that puts tension on the trigger (i'm not sure what this piece is called) is screwed too far out (i like the trigger light) and this is preventing the handle to screw on all the way. but other times even if i have this piece screwed way in the handle will still lock up.

Try backing out the spring guide to see if it is smooth. If it is ck the threads on the handle. They may be good but there may be a piece of the chrome that chipped off. Frank

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yes, i've backed out the spring guide no problems. i will inspect the threads on the handle but i'm pretty sure they are not damaged at all. i've thought about lubing the threads but decided not to because i didn't know what to use, and didn't want to get any oil or the like to accidentally contaminate my paint (even though it probably wouldn't because of the location). sometimes screwing it on backwards for a rotation then screwing it on will work, i guess i'll try this more.

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yes, i've backed out the spring guide no problems. i will inspect the threads on the handle but i'm pretty sure they are not damaged at all. i've thought about lubing the threads but decided not to because i didn't know what to use, and didn't want to get any oil or the like to accidentally contaminate my paint (even though it probably wouldn't because of the location). sometimes screwing it on backwards for a rotation then screwing it on will work, i guess i'll try this more.

If it's going in finesometimes the threads are not damaged. Damaged threads will try to lock up every time until they're taken care of. I think you're jsut having problems getting it aligned properly. Try like allstate said, when you put the handles together, turn the back backwards until you feel the starts of the threads pass each other. You'll feel a llittle pop or click. Then try screwing it in. Sometimes this helps align the threads.

You could try just not using the back of the handle. Some people actually prefer this, they spray with the back of the needle exposed. I do it when I'm using water based paints so I can pull back on the needle more quickly when it clogs the nozzle.

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i've taken the handle off a few times, but i don't really like the way it balances. can you pull back on the needle to clear clogs without loosening the chuck? i've never tried this, i always loosen the chuck and pull the needle all the way out and wipe it down.

Yeah, you just pull back on the chuck. There's room for it to slide back further than the trigger will go.

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When you look at various threaded parts on airbrushes under high magnification you'd be surprised how ragged the threads actually look most of the time. I've had alot of handles start binding up with the body suddenly.....I just lube the threads real good and screw the parts together and take them apart repeatedly....you should feel the binding threads start to smooth out.....if they are really damaged threads and you don't have a file small enough to work on them you can take lapping compound used by mechanics to seat valves in car engines, and apply some to the threads and repeat the assembly/disassembly routine till the bad threads smooth out....rinse the treads with solvent and brush them with something like a toothbrush to remove all the compound....add a drop of lube and you should be good to go.

To answer your original question....Yes, you can modify the handle on your airbrush to suit your needs....I've seen guys machine cutouts, and even add knurling to their airbrush handles and so on....You can customize most anything....airbrushes included.....Personally for the reason you asked, I think you should just fix the thread problem and then if you still need a cutout handle then make one....otherwise its alot of effort for a "work-a-round"....you'll still have binding threads on the newly modded handle!

Edited by 68KingFisher
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