Jump to content
Clear Coat Dipping
22 replies to this topic
Posted 29 March 2010 - 07:56 PM
]Can anyone help me on dipping lures instead of brushing them. Is there a magical clearcoat out there that I can purchase!! I have been using devcon and it works great just looking for something a little less time consuming. Thanks, Rubylips
Posted 29 March 2010 - 08:35 PM
I have been dipping with marine spar varnish. It comes in a few different forms. Read the labels before you buy. Make sure you get a good water resistant formula. I don't have a drying wheel so I have to keep after the drips with a throw away foam brush. I do 3 to 6 coats waiting 2 hours between coats and doing a light sanding followed by a tack cloth between each dip. I have been happy with the results. I don't think it will save time at all but it is an option. You might also look up something called probianate. I read a thread about Rapala using this. They are plastic crystals that you dissolve in acetone and then you dip baits into the mixture. I hope this helps you:)
Edited by VermontPhisher, 29 March 2010 - 08:36 PM.
Posted 29 March 2010 - 09:08 PM
its called propionate, and many people use it to seal wood baits before painting, but it won't make a very good top coat.
Posted 29 March 2010 - 09:14 PM
I guess I was misinformed . Thanks for the correction and saving me the hassle. I was told it would be a good top coat but cost alot of $$$. I am glad I didn't but it yet.
Edited by VermontPhisher, 29 March 2010 - 09:17 PM.
Posted 30 March 2010 - 12:23 AM
I dip baits in Dick Nite moisture cured polyurethane to topcoat them. Dip it, hang it up, done. Do a search on Dick Nite or DN to find out how to buy it, store it, and use it.
Edited by BobP, 30 March 2010 - 12:24 AM.
Posted 30 March 2010 - 08:15 AM
Propionate is an excellent topcoat and it is easy to use/dip. It works great with solvent based paints. All you would need to do is spray a 2 thin coats of clear paint for your final step when painting and then you are ready to start dipping the topcoat. It will etch into and bond to the paint and make a lure will not chip, flake, or peel.
Dick Nite is also a great topcoat.
Both can be dipped. Cure times are about the same. Propionate can also be used as your wood sealer and it doesn't go bad.
Propionate would be a bad choice for guys that are repainting plastic lures.
Posted 30 March 2010 - 10:21 AM
I use Target Coatings urethane, either the SC9000 or the EM9300.
No air contamination or storeage issues, easy to use, dries ready to redip in two hours, fish the next day.
PM me if you want more info.
Posted 30 March 2010 - 10:49 AM
Will propionate melt a plastic lure because of the acetone it's mixed with? Not planning on using it anytime soon. Just wanted to know for future reference.
Edited by RayburnGuy, 30 March 2010 - 10:49 AM.
Posted 30 March 2010 - 08:01 PM
When Propionate is mixed, it is about 5%-10% Propionate pellets and 90%-95% acetone. Anything that would be damaged by a dip into straight acetone would suffer the same effects being dipped into the Propionate solution.
That is why it is best to spray 2 thin coats of clear over the painted wood baits before it is dipped for topcoating. This will protect the paint from the acetone.
I spray the Propionate as the clear before I dip and it works great. It is dry and ready to dip in about 5 min. from the time I spray the clear prop.
Posted 30 March 2010 - 08:34 PM
I use a product called Deft Brand - Clear Wood Finish - Gloss Brushing Lacquer....only I dip my wood plugs into it. usually one dip is all that is needed unless you have used sparkle or net or foil...then 2-3 dips will do fine.
Got mine at Lowe's for $ 10.00 a quart, and have already dipped perhaps 150 plugs into it, (I suppose 1 quart might well do 200 or more plugs-depending upon the size of them (my plugs are 4 and 5 inchers)......and I am now down to about 1/4 of the quart left...now have to use a spoon to spoon on the dip when the lure is held above the can.
It smells some, (not bad though) and will drip a little...so use a paper plate or similar to catch the drips.
Give it a try. I think you will be pleased with it, as a final clear coat.
Steve in Missouri
Posted 31 March 2010 - 08:52 AM
Here's how I dip with the Target products:
I dip my lures in the SC9000. I use a wide mouth glass pickle jar with a metal top, and there is no problem with contamination by exposure to the air, or from dripping back into the jar. I accidentally left my dip jar open in the garage overnight, and there was no skinning or problem the next morning.
If I'm coating one lure, I let it drip back into the jar for a while.
For more than one, or for several lure sections, I put a piece of newspaper under them.
If it's a crank, I just let it drip dry, and then cut the hardened drip off the rear hook hanger.
If it's a section of a jointed lure, I try to hang it so it drips off one corner, and keep blotting that drop off with a paper towel until no more drip forms. The piece still has plenty of finish on that spot, and I'm dipping those more than once anyway, so I'm not worried about coverage.
And I use PVC AZEK decking for my lure building, so they are totally water proof from the start, and the top coat is only to protect the paint scheme from damage.
I've found the SC9000, which is an interior urethane finish, is totally clear and doesn't dull paint schemes. It's the only topcoat I've found that doesn't take the metalic sheen off silver paint.
It also doesn't affect the paint when I dip with it, even solvent based sharpies. I just make sure I've heat set each coat of all my paints thoroughly with a hair dryer on high first.
I do find that a lure coated with SC9000 will cloud up if left on wet carpet overnight, but it will dry right out again and be fine to fish. It is classified as an interior finish, so it is not water proof, just water resistant.
I have experimented with the EM9300, their exterior urethane, and it works very well, too.
It does seem to take a little lustre away from my paint schemes.
It is also a very strong film, which pulls so hard on the paint schemes that I get a fine crackle effect. I kind of like that for some schemes, but now I dip first in the SC9000 to protect the paint from crackling, and then with the EM9000.
For repaints of plastic cranks, one dip is enough. And I have no problem using the SC9000 for them.
For the sectional swim baits I make and sell, I dip each section three times, once with the SC9000, and twice with the EM9300.
If I want glitter, I mix some fine glitter into some of the SC9000, and brush it on after the first coat is dry.
I hope this helps.
Posted 04 April 2010 - 11:44 AM
Steve, do you turn your lures after dipping in the Deft? or just hang them to drip dry?
I bought some Deft you mentioned, and like the ease of use. But just letting the lure drip dry and not turning, makes the coat awefully thin. I was just concerned about how good it will protect colors below? (I'm just used to Devcon-love the finished result, hate the application process )
Posted 04 April 2010 - 12:21 PM
can you dip baits painted with createx in deft?
Posted 04 April 2010 - 05:25 PM
Yup, that's what I did. I'm experimenting with thicker coats now.
Before, I would dip once, than hang vertically to drip dry. It makes a nice coat, but very thin; even if dipped several times.
So today I dipped it and only let it drip a few times, then put it on the turner to dry. It left a MUCH thicker coat. Now, just to see how it dries for the final verdict.
Posted 04 April 2010 - 09:10 PM
Mark, i've been using the SC9000 for a while, and i've never caught a fish on a bait i've cleared with it, so i can't really attest to it. it applies nice (well somewhat, it orange peels for me all the time though) and its easy to work with, but i remember a post on here or on another forum where a guy tested it by submerging a bait cleared in it under water for a day or two two (it didn't cloud or get damaged) but he also fished a bait cleared in it and it peeled up real bad after just a few bass. my friend also uses the stuff and he had a crankbait peel up terribly after a few fish, and almost all the paint is gone after 8 bass.
have you or the guy who recommended it to you ever had any durability issues with this stuff?
Posted 15 April 2010 - 08:32 AM
Sorry for the delay in responding.......
I do not turn my lures when using the Deft Wood Finish on them for a final clear coat.
I dip them and then hang them to dry. 2-3 hours drying time is good...then I use a med. steel wool to rub them off and smooth them.
Then another coat of the Deft by dipping......air dry again and after 2-3 or 4 coats of the Deft - you should have a good hard smooth coat built up and the lure (plug) should be ready to add hardware and fish it.
I use them to fish for myself, and I also sell them online - either on my website or on Ebay. Steve
Posted 15 April 2010 - 10:44 AM
I use the wood varnish in clear as well that I got from lowes. It has done very well for me at first I just did one coat fished with them had a little wear on the bottom from the hooks so know I put one coat on let dry over night then dip and hang again and so far it is doin great.
Posted 15 April 2010 - 12:09 PM
Bob, how do you keep the DN from forming a drip or building up at the end of the bait? I tried this and rear hook hanger had 1/16" of DN covering it.
Posted 15 April 2010 - 01:39 PM
I use a Qtip and clear the excess as it forms a drip Gunnie... only takes a couple mins beforeyou dont have to do this anymore and your good.