Jacob Robinson

New To Air Brushing. Need Advice.

6 posts in this topic

I use to make my own topwater lures when i first got into bass fishing. I just came up with a brand new design that i think alot of people will want. I used to just paint my topwaters with a paint brush and model paint. Im wanting to start using a air brush. I know the basics but what kind of paint and clear coat or whatever do i need?

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I use to make my own topwater lures when i first got into bass fishing. I just came up with a brand new design that i think alot of people will want. I used to just paint my topwaters with a paint brush and model paint. Im wanting to start using a air brush. I know the basics but what kind of paint and clear coat or whatever do i need?

I just started doing this also, I used the Enviro Tec clear coat and it seems that if you are not right on the money (50/50) mix it won't work, I want to try the devcon 2 ton epoxy to see how that works. I started with the cheap wal mart apple barn and folk art paint to get the hang of it then I'll move up to createx paint. It's very addicting i will tell you that. The wife is already saying "your going to the building at this time of night" lol

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I just started doing this also, I used the Enviro Tec clear coat and it seems that if you are not right on the money (50/50) mix it won't work, I want to try the devcon 2 ton epoxy to see how that works. I started with the cheap wal mart apple barn and folk art paint to get the hang of it then I'll move up to createx paint. It's very addicting i will tell you that. The wife is already saying "your going to the building at this time of night" lol

So i do need to be using epoxy as a clear coat? I have just been dipping them in poly crylic. But then again, you can still feel the wood.........

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So i do need to be using epoxy as a clear coat? I have just been dipping them in poly crylic. But then again, you can still feel the wood.........

I am sure someone from here will better answer than i can but i bet you need the epoxy for a more durable finish

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There are any number of options you can go with for clear coating. Etex, (envirotex lite) Devcon 2 Ton, (D2T) Flexcote, (normally used for finishing rods) automotive urethanes, Dick Nites top coat, and the list goes on. Three of the more popular clear coats here at TU are D2T, (an epoxy) Etex and Dick Nites moisture cure polyurethane. Etex is also a type of epoxy and is a bit more finicky about mixing than D2T. The Etex is measured by volume and requires even amounts of resin and hardener and needs to be mixed more thoroughly than D2T. The D2T is also measured in equal parts and is a little more forgiving about mixing. If you decide to try the D2T be sure and get then 30 minute and not the 5 minute. The 5 minute is not waterproof and doesn't give you enough working time to mix and coat baits with. And even the 30 minute type doesn't mean you have that long to work it. That's just the time it takes to set up. The Dick Nites top coat has storage issues that have to be addressed and that's why some people don't care to use it. As I said, it is a moisture cure polyurethane and the moisture in the air is what starts the curing process. A lot of folks use a product called Bloxygen that is sprayed into the container to keep air from reaching it. The Bloxygen is an aerosol can containing argon gas which is heavier than air. After spraying into your storage container it settles down on top of the clear coat thus blocking exposure to moisture laden air. I know nothing about Flexcoat or the automotive urethanes so I can't comment on those, although there are people here who work with these on a daily basis. No matter which product you choose there will be a learning process involved. And please don't ask which top coat is "best". You will have to read up on the advantages and disadvantages of each one and decide which of them you'd like to try. Everyone has to come up with a process that works for them. There is no "magic" formula. If there were then everyone would be building baits the same way and that will never happen. If you'll use the search feature in the top right hand corner of the page you can find countless topics on most of the questions you have. Read up on some of these and if you have questions you can't find answers to then come back and ask questions. And the more specific you can be with your questions the more specific the answers will be. There is a wealth of lure building knowledge at this site and we'll be glad to help you.

RG

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There are any number of options you can go with for clear coating. Etex, (envirotex lite) Devcon 2 Ton, (D2T) Flexcote, (normally used for finishing rods) automotive urethanes, Dick Nites top coat, and the list goes on. Three of the more popular clear coats here at TU are D2T, (an epoxy) Etex and Dick Nites moisture cure polyurethane. Etex is also a type of epoxy and is a bit more finicky about mixing than D2T. The Etex is measured by volume and requires even amounts of resin and hardener and needs to be mixed more thoroughly than D2T. The D2T is also measured in equal parts and is a little more forgiving about mixing. If you decide to try the D2T be sure and get then 30 minute and not the 5 minute. The 5 minute is not waterproof and doesn't give you enough working time to mix and coat baits with. And even the 30 minute type doesn't mean you have that long to work it. That's just the time it takes to set up. The Dick Nites top coat has storage issues that have to be addressed and that's why some people don't care to use it. As I said, it is a moisture cure polyurethane and the moisture in the air is what starts the curing process. A lot of folks use a product called Bloxygen that is sprayed into the container to keep air from reaching it. The Bloxygen is an aerosol can containing argon gas which is heavier than air. After spraying into your storage container it settles down on top of the clear coat thus blocking exposure to moisture laden air. I know nothing about Flexcoat or the automotive urethanes so I can't comment on those, although there are people here who work with these on a daily basis. No matter which product you choose there will be a learning process involved. And please don't ask which top coat is "best". You will have to read up on the advantages and disadvantages of each one and decide which of them you'd like to try. Everyone has to come up with a process that works for them. There is no "magic" formula. If there were then everyone would be building baits the same way and that will never happen. If you'll use the search feature in the top right hand corner of the page you can find countless topics on most of the questions you have. Read up on some of these and if you have questions you can't find answers to then come back and ask questions. And the more specific you can be with your questions the more specific the answers will be. There is a wealth of lure building knowledge at this site and we'll be glad to help you.

RG

Thanks. This really helps out!

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