wetflyguy

Weighting Jointed Plugs

8 posts in this topic

I started playing around with jointed plugs for stripers and Musky/Pike.

The lures are thru wired , any body do these type lures.

My question is do you keep all the weight in th front section.

Put two 00 buck shot just under the chin and a 150 grain weight

in the back of the front section.

Lure swims with a slow wag.

Just looking to cut my learning curve a bit.

The plug are 6" long 7/8 " dia , carved from poplar with a z type lip.

wet

Edited by wetflyguy

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depending on how many joints are in the bait, i always try to keep all my weight in the front most section. sometimes the other sections want to float up sideways so you need to add a little ballast, but if you add too much ballast to the rear sections, it really kills the action.

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depending on how many joints are in the bait, i always try to keep all my weight in the front most section. sometimes the other sections want to float up sideways so you need to add a little ballast, but if you add too much ballast to the rear sections, it really kills the action.

+1 I have had exactly the same experience, and keep as much weight as I can in the first section. Never weight the tail section. I weight my floaters so the lure sits with it's back slightly out of the water, and the tail wags in the breeze, like a tailing bonefish.

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I started playing around with jointed plugs for stripers and Musky/Pike.

The lures are thru wired , any body do these type lures.

My question is do you keep all the weight in th front section.

Put two 00 buck shot just under the chin and a 150 grain weight

in the back of the front section.

Lure swims with a slow wag.

Just looking to cut my learning curve a bit.

The plug are 6" long 7/8 " dia , carved from poplar with a z type lip.

wet

I have built a bunch of 7" single joint baits for pike. I find that weight right behind the bill and then right behind the first hook hanger works best.

261g7ky.jpg

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Sorry the vid isnt the greatest but I did it myself

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I made some 7" triple segment cranks from basswood that swam well with 2/3 of the ballast behind the front hook hanger in the 1st segment and 1/3 in the front of the 2nd section. I second the notion that ballast in the front 1/3 of the bait is a good place to start when you are prototyping a segmented bait but you really need to float and retrieve test every design to get it just right.

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I made some 7" triple segment cranks from basswood that swam well with 2/3 of the ballast behind the front hook hanger in the 1st segment and 1/3 in the front of the 2nd section. I second the notion that ballast in the front 1/3 of the bait is a good place to start when you are prototyping a segmented bait but you really need to float and retrieve test every design to get it just right.

I agree that you need to test every bait! Behind the bill and first hook hanger is just a starting spot!

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@ wetflyguy

Usually the rear section is tapered , shorter and thus generally less buoyant compared to the front section , thus won't float up that pronounced with it's mounted hardware .

So it won't require any weight , anyway .

A weighted rear part is more difficult to get to wiggle , as a higher weight would have to be moved by the first section .

I 100% agree with BobP , that the ballast should become less and less per each section towards the rear of multiple sectioned baits , .........the very rear should always remain unweighted .

good luck , diemai :yay:

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The lures are 6" long and through wired.

the two shots in the chin were good

had to go with a shot behind the front hook hanger.

Now all is nice , swim great.

Was doing some testing and a 18" largemouth said thats good.

Thaks for everyones help!!!

Wet

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