Bassin TN

Paint Doing Something Funny?help!

12 posts in this topic

Alright so I have been painting crankbaits for about two months. I buy the glued baits. The first 30 I painted came out awsome after I learned my airbrush and learned how to mix paint and everything else. Well I ordered 120 baits this time and I put the base paint on standard white spraypaint out of a can just like last time, Paint the baits look good, dip in the the clear coat hang to dry just like the first 30 and while drying they start wrinkling up. Sorry for the discription but dont know how else to say it the paint just bubbles up and can not figure it out. Any advise will help I have a tourney this weekend and the last bait I had painted lost on a under one pound smallie. This is my first post of hopefully many now I have people I can talk to about this with out boring my wife to death about it. Thanks to all that replay and I am sure I will have some more questions.

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Alright so I have been painting crankbaits for about two months. I buy the glued baits. The first 30 I painted came out awsome after I learned my airbrush and learned how to mix paint and everything else. Well I ordered 120 baits this time and I put the base paint on standard white spraypaint out of a can just like last time, Paint the baits look good, dip in the the clear coat hang to dry just like the first 30 and while drying they start wrinkling up. Sorry for the discription but dont know how else to say it the paint just bubbles up and can not figure it out. Any advise will help I have a tourney this weekend and the last bait I had painted lost on a under one pound smallie. This is my first post of hopefully many now I have people I can talk to about this with out boring my wife to death about it. Thanks to all that replay and I am sure I will have some more questions.

Did you let the paint completely dry before dipping in the clear coat?

Rich

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Not for sure, but just by reading your post, sounds like your using sc9000. I had that same problem. I found out later, that the lures I done that came out slick and looked good was in the cooler months. When I dip my lures in the warmer months they orange peeled. It's like the clear skimmed over and the wet clear under the skim was sliding underneath it causing the orange peel. If that makes any sence .So! First I let the lures dry over night. Bring them inside were the temp is cool and dip them. That's what I do when It's hot outside.

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Not for sure, but just by reading your post, sounds like your using sc9000. I had that same problem. I found out later, that the lures I done that came out slick and looked good was in the cooler months. When I dip my lures in the warmer months they orange peeled. It's like the clear skimmed over and the wet clear under the skim was sliding underneath it causing the orange peel. If that makes any sence .So! First I let the lures dry over night. Bring them inside were the temp is cool and dip them. That's what I do when It's hot outside.

Well I am painting them in side in my basment I will try and let them dry over night but I did a few days ago and got the same effect it is like the base coat is not sticking or something like that.

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You may have had some type of contaminate on the baits. Painting and making it stick and last takes good prep work. The easiest way to prep a plastic crankbait is to tumble them in ceramic media, this will remove any and all contaminates and rough up the surface to prep it for paint. At the least you should wipe them down with denatures alcohol. Also make sure your paints are compatable.

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We need more information to be able to help... What are you dipping them in.... What type of paint....and so on!

There are a great many things that can cause this...Like Vanndalizer said contaminates could be the culprit.

But If I had to guess I would say that you are using water based paints "Acrylics" and those need to be "heat set". If you do not heat set them the paint doesnt cure properly and can wrinkle after being dipped. Do a search on heat setting... I use a hair dryer on high and really hit every single coat of paint I put on the bait to make sure its set and dry.

You could always use epoxy for your clear coat. But then again that bring up a whole nother multitude of issues.

Edited by LKN4DDB

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We need more information to be able to help... What are you dipping them in.... What type of paint....and so on!

There are a great many things that can cause this...Like Vanndalizer said contaminates could be the culprit.

But If I had to guess I would say that you are using water based paints "Acrylics" and those need to be "heat set". If you do not heat set them the paint doesnt cure properly and can wrinkle after being dipped. Do a search on heat setting... I use a hair dryer on high and really hit every single coat of paint I put on the bait to make sure its set and dry.

You could always use epoxy for your clear coat. But then again that bring up a whole nother multitude of issues.

Sounds to me like your primer wasn't completely set. Try hitting it with a hair dryer, to be sure the solvent is completely gone. Then let it sit overnight.

The same goes for your paint scheme.

Are you truly heat setting each coat of your paint with the hair dryer set on high, or just after you're done painting?

Water based/bourne paints have a lot of water in them, and the paint needs to be heated enough to cause the molecules to crosslink, which makes them waterproof. I don't know the actual temps. needed, but Snax posted it here a year or two ago. If you do a search for Snax's posts, I'm sure you can find it.

I've had that orange peel effect when using the EM9300, which is their exterior urethane. I stopped it by dipping first in the SC9000, to give the paint a stronger surface, and then with the EM9300.

Evidently, the film strength of the exterior urethane is so strong it pulls the softer paint and makes it orange peel. I've never had that happen with the SC9000.

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I tried using a can of Rustoleum white primer recently. It said it was formulated for plastic. Figured it would be faster and easier to prime plastic baits with the rattle can. Made sure the primer was good and dry before painting over it with Createx. Heat set each coat of Createx as it was applied. The final paint job looked good. Nice and smooth and no flaws I could see. About 15 seconds after I started brushing on the first coat of solvent based DN the Createx started wrinkling. The wrinkling was so bad it looked like I was brushing on paint stripper instead of a top coat. It would have probably been OK had I used D2T or Etex instead of DN for a top coat as the epoxies don't react like the solvent based top coats. Long story short, you can never know exactly how different solvent based products are going to react with each other. Not unless your a chemist. That's why I have, and use, three different types of top coats. If I have trouble with one combination I try something else and do my best to remember the recipe that gave me trouble.

Edited by RayburnGuy

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We need more information to be able to help... What are you dipping them in.... What type of paint....and so on!

There are a great many things that can cause this...Like Vanndalizer said contaminates could be the culprit.

But If I had to guess I would say that you are using water based paints "Acrylics" and those need to be "heat set". If you do not heat set them the paint doesnt cure properly and can wrinkle after being dipped. Do a search on heat setting... I use a hair dryer on high and really hit every single coat of paint I put on the bait to make sure its set and dry.

You could always use epoxy for your clear coat. But then again that bring up a whole nother multitude of issues.

Alright here goes I am painting out of cheap spary paint for base then using createx out of airbrush then dipping in clearcoat I am using a polyurethain for clear coat like I said the first came out grat with no prep but tonight I rubbed down it alcochol then painted with a better base made for plastic going to try and paint and see what it does will let you all know and thanks for your help.

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I tried using a can of Rustoleum white primer recently. It said it was formulated for plastic. Figured it would be faster and easier to prime plastic baits with the rattle can. Made sure the primer was good and dry before painting over it with Createx. Heat set each coat of Createx as it was applied. The final paint job looked good. Nice and smooth and no flaws I could see. About 15 seconds after I started brushing on the first coat of solvent based DN the Createx started wrinkling. The wrinkling was so bad it looked like I was brushing on paint stripper instead of a top coat. It would have probably been OK had I used D2T or Etex instead of DN for a top coat as the epoxies don't react like the solvent based top coats. Long story short, you can never know exactly how different solvent based products are going to react with each other. Not unless your a chemist. That's why I have, and use, three different types of top coats. If I have trouble with one combination I try something else and do my best to remember the recipe that gave me trouble.

The big thing I can not understand is why the first ones turned out so great but now doing everything exactly the same I am havin troubles I am tring new base and preped them so I will paint tonight and let set then dip tomarrow and see what happens wish me luck I have a tourney this weekend and need my classic that has cought all my fish this year, For those who want to know what it is just dont use it agianst me I painted the top a dark to light purple then on the bottom put strips in a dark color any will work then went over the bottom front belly with orange to red in the back with the black beauty spot on the back part of the middle it turned out great and every time I use it the smallies love it!

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Most likely the spray bomb is enamel, you can have problems with it wrinkling when another paint with solvent is applied over it. Enamel with a hardner is more forgiving when it comes to re-coating but impractical for a small number of baits. Lacquer would be your best bet if you spray bomb the basecoat. You can take a grey scotch brite and scuff the enamel after it has dried to touch doing so will promote quicker drying. Again, try lacquer if all possible.

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Most likely the spray bomb is enamel, you can have problems with it wrinkling when another paint with solvent is applied over it. Enamel with a hardner is more forgiving when it comes to re-coating but impractical for a small number of baits. Lacquer would be your best bet if you spray bomb the basecoat. You can take a grey scotch brite and scuff the enamel after it has dried to touch doing so will promote quicker drying. Again, try lacquer if all possible.

Thanks to all that have helped dont know if it was the base coat that I did differant tonight or cleaning them first but something worked for me got another crank for saturday now need to fill orders this week for the guys at work, one of the best things I like about painting these is I learn what to fish with being new to the lake that I fish but so far so good a first and second in the last two tournies so wish me luck will need all I can get. And if any one has any color scems I can try send them my way waterr temp 58-68 depend on where I am at deep clear lake thanks agian to everyone!

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