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Dipping For Clear Coat
2 replies to this topic
Posted 18 April 2010 - 07:31 PM
Alright hare a while back I had a question about why my paint was doing something funny when I dip in clear coat. The first thirty baits I did came out awsome when I got the new batch I bought they was doing somthing funny so I started cleaning them then spraying them with a higher grade base paint for plastics only. Well after all this still a problem I was talkin to my cousin he paints cars and he said with a higher humitity the paint is tring to dry from out side in or the other way and it is making the paint shrink and wrinkle. Haas anyone ever had this happen before? What can I do about it? He said thinner coats but when dipping how do you get thinner coats?
Posted 19 April 2010 - 10:51 AM
I have run into that problem, and here's what I found caused it.
Actually, there were two different times, with two different causes.
I prime with rattle can primer, paint with Createx or other water based/bourne air brush paints, and dip with a water borne urethane.
I heat set all my paint after each coat. I'm assuming you're doing the same. Remember, if you're using Createx, you need to get the paint up to 350 degrees (I think) to get the paint molecules to cross link, and become waterproof. That's the reason you can wash T shirts with Createx paint schemes on them. The paint is heat set by ironing it from the backside.
The first time I had wrinkling, it was between coats of urethane, and didn't affect the paint scheme. I didn't wait the full two hours between dips, and the second coat wrinkled big time.
So I learned to "heat set" my urethane between coats, using a hair dryer on low, once the urethane has stopped dripping, and I can redip after only an hour with no problems. That insures that it's truly dry.
You might try waiting longer between dips. Depending on which finish you use, it should have a recoat time on the label.
At that time, I was using the Target Coatins SC9000, which is an interior urethane, but which holds up fine for lures unless you let them soak, or lie on wet carpet overnight. That makes them fog up, but hanging them to dry restores them.
The second time I got wrinkling, actually a very fine crackle finish, was when I switched to their exterior urethane, the EM9300.
Since I had never had a problem with the interior urethane, I figure that the exterior has a much hotter solvent for it's stronger film strength, and so it ate into the paint a little, kind of reactivating it a little, and then pulled the paint apart a little as it set.
I was seeing the white primer in the mini cracks of the crackle finish.
So, since the interior hadn't done that, I tried dipping first in the interior, and then twice more in the exterior, and it cured the crackling.
Crackle finish is usually achieved by putting a strong film over a weak one, before the weak one is fully cured.
I get that effect with rattle can paints by spraying a gloss black over the shoulders and back of a white semi gloss main body paint coat. With rattle cans, you can recoat after a minute or so, and, if I hit the white semi with a gloss black, it crackles. I actually like the way it looks.
Hope this helps.
Posted 19 April 2010 - 12:28 PM
Well I am doing the heat with a hairdryer, I have not changer anything from the first baits I did they came out great I was just wonderin can laquer go bad? I have herd people say some clearcoats go bad if not stored right could this be what is happening? Can I slow down the speed of drying for the laquer could it be dring to fast? Thanks for any input just trin to get back to paintin!not fixen!