First Attempt At Foiling
25 replies to this topic
Posted 22 April 2010 - 09:40 AM
Well tried foiling with a photo finish last night on my latest swim bait prototype and it actually turned out pretty good. I kinda rushed it trying to gauge the time that would be involved. But it is really pretty easy for the look. What do yall think. Sorry for the not so great pictures one day the iphone will have a really good camera.
Posted 22 April 2010 - 10:01 AM
Really nice, looks Pro to me.
Posted 22 April 2010 - 10:52 AM
Your bait looks great! How do you do that? How do you go about getting the foil / picture that you apply to the bait and what kind of material is it, paper? And do you use a spray on adhesive for the foil and then clear coat? I'm wanting to give it try, but I'm a little lost as you can easily see. Thanks for any info offered and once again, your bait looks totally wicked. I bet you'll catch some toads on it.
Posted 22 April 2010 - 12:11 PM
Thanks for the compliment. There is a tutorial somewhere around here that shows the basic process. I actually do the photo finish before i cut the swimbait segments. Just have to be very ginger when cutting as not to damage the coating. I use your basic tissue paper and everyday aluminum foil. And i do use spray adhesive, it is a little more forgiving when glueing to the bait.
Posted 23 April 2010 - 09:19 AM
Check this out.
Here's an updated version.
In an attempt to get a realistic finish with the shine of a real fish, I developed this method, borrowing many of the basics from other contributors, especially Lincoya at TU who turned me onto photo finishing.
1. With tape, tack down your foil, shiny side up, on a smooth flat surface (Poster Board works well. I prefer the foil sold at the Dollar Stores, as it is flimsy, and in this case, that’s a desirable thing.) Lay it out so it’s wrinkle free. (Wash your hands thoroughly to keep oil and other contaminents off the paper and images. If you're comfortable with using gloves, that's even better.)
2. With Tape, position and tack down a piece of “Gift Tissue”, also found at the Dollar Stores.
3. Spray the foil with adhesive (When I can get it, my preferrence is Elmers) and lay the tissue down onto it keeping it as wrinkle free as possible. Using a credit card or like object, GENTLY work it smooth, from the center out.
4. Trim the Tissue/Foil so it will fit onto an 8.5” X 11” piece of paper. (I like to affix it so that the top is appx. 1.5” lower than the top of the sheet, and ½” narrower on either side, allowing the paper to feed freely into your printer. ) Tape down the top and sides.
5. Choose an Image from the Internet, or better still, from a photo you took of a baitfish. Using a Program which allows you to size and reverse the image (I use MS Publisher but I’m sure many other programs work as well) Print your sized and reversed Images. I print from the bottom up as that allows me to use the sheet at another time If I need less than the whole sheet at that time.
6. After you have printed out the Images, cut them out and position them on your lure, one side at a time. After I position the first side, I make pencil reference lines for the eyes and mouth, so both sides will sit symetrically on the lure. Holding the image in place, bend it back and spray both the foil and the lure. After you’ve done the front half, do the same for the rear. Repeat the process for the opposite side. Gently Burnish the images in, using a soft piece of cloth over your finger (Again, work from the center out for best results.) There should be no wrinkles or high spots. The thin foil and tissue will lay down nicely, and not tear, if you take it easy. Once it is totally affixed to the lure body, use a smooth round object i.e. a Sharpie Marker to finish the process, working the edges down. You can "massage" the edges with 400 paper to taper it down, even more if you feel it needs it.
7. When the glue is totally dry, give the lure a coat of Epoxy, (My preference is D2T as it sets quickly and is thicker than Etex. ) The Epoxy coat should make the lines of the paper/foil “disappear” as well as cause the tissue to turn transparent, letting the foil shine to come through. When it sets, check to see that the transition lines have blended in seamlessly. If not, again, a swipe or two with 400 paper should smooth it down sufficiently. Spray your back and belly colors, and topcoat again, once or twice. I use Rattle cans, but surely airbrushing will allow for a better transition. Here’s the same image sized for 2 different lures.
Edited by Husky, 23 April 2010 - 10:58 AM.
Posted 23 April 2010 - 02:41 PM
I've been having some luck with water slide decal paper. It's pretty much the same process except you don't have to go through all the steps with the tissue paper. You just print your image onto the decal paper, let dry and then spray an ink fixing film over the images so the printer ink doesn't run when dipped into warm water to remove the image from the backing. I've posted a couple pics in the hard bait gallery.
Posted 23 April 2010 - 08:36 PM
I like that process.. Where would you find the water slide decal paper? I assume you would be able to get the ink fixing film at the same place. Very clever procedure. Thumbs up!!
Posted 23 April 2010 - 10:06 PM
I got mine at the link below. You can do a search online for it and probably find a place close to you depending on where you live. This particular place is in Texas and not too far from me. If you need any more info just let me know.
Posted 23 April 2010 - 10:07 PM
Nice up date Husky. I like the idea of printing right on the foil threw the tissue paper. Maybe keeping more ink for the pic. Defining the colors a little more.
Posted 24 April 2010 - 06:07 AM
I think you have missed the point there. Husky's solution is always based on ONE major point: "Spend as little $ as possible." is the motto. Actually in some situations, the tissue method is way more elegant than using water slide decal. The texture of paper gives the print a bit more 3D effect and does look more realistic compared to smooth gloss from water slide decal. JMHO
:tipsy:to Husky the FRUGAL
Posted 24 April 2010 - 07:58 AM
Thank you, Finally someone understands me! They don't say I throw nickles around like they are manhole covers for nothing
.The paper is also thinner than the decal paper and "lays down" very nice and smooth
Nice up date Husky. I like the idea of printing right on the foil threw the tissue paper. Maybe keeping more ink for the pic. Defining the colors a little more.[/q]
Thanks. Yeah Kelly, it eliminated a process and got the ink to stay put. It also makes handling the printed tissue a non issue.
Edited by Husky, 24 April 2010 - 09:06 AM.
Posted 24 April 2010 - 02:14 PM
I've been doing it on artist's tracing paper which is a little tougher than tissue paper (plus I have two huge rolls laying around). It's still best to attach it either to paper or foil to print it, but then it can be easily laid over paint or used with the foil. The rolls should last my lifetime.
Posted 24 April 2010 - 04:24 PM
My experience with tracing paper was that it didn't become transparent the way the tissue did.
Posted 24 April 2010 - 07:03 PM
No, don't think I missed the point. Nor was I trying to say the decal paper was a better way to do it. My post was in no way intended to take anything away from Husky or his procedure. If it was taken that way I apologize. Was just trying to provide an alternative solution that, for some at least, might be a little easier.
Posted 24 April 2010 - 07:23 PM
LaPala meant that as a jovial shot at me, not a barb at your technique. I know he used decals in his building in the past with excellent results. Check out his gallery pic.
What I heard in what he was saying is that in some instances the texture of the tissue/foil yielded a preferred finish.
Posted 25 April 2010 - 10:18 AM
Thanks Husky. Just wanted to make sure nobody thought I was trying to step on any toes. I've learned an awful lot here at TU and want to try and give back a little in return.
Posted 25 April 2010 - 04:11 PM
What Husly said; and I don't bite. Just sharing my experience with the techniques.
Posted 25 April 2010 - 05:36 PM
Sorry guys. Maybe I did miss the point.
Posted 25 April 2010 - 08:09 PM
those baits look awesome! very very realistic love the tail fin, what material is used for the tails?
Posted 26 April 2010 - 04:32 PM
Alright you guys got me wanting to try this! Thanks for all the pics and details the only questions I have is I dip my lures in laquer will this work or do I have to use the epoxy? Where do you get the pics from? Thanks and can not wait to try this!