9 replies to this topic

[Crymdawg]

I put this post question on another topic but thought I'd get more response this way.

I'm making "Chatter" baits from components bought from JANN's and I'm having problem with the #2 size split rings they say is the correct size to use. My issue is that after getting them on the blade and then trying to get them thru the jig eye the split rings seperate. Has any one had this happen? Should there be a problem with this in regards to the performance of the bait. I tried some on a recent pre-fishing trip and the baits would only occassionally vibrate like the big name lures do. Those baits go directly from blade to jig. May be I'll have to invest in the hooks with an open eye then close them myself after putting blade on.

ALSO, I've noticed that the JANN's prepainted jig heads get a bit tacky after handling them a while. Is this due to the type of paint they might be using? Any way to prevent this? Can I powderpaint over top of their paint ??

Thanks

[DDSBYDAY]

If the split ring is open you have exceeded it's memory. In other words it is sprung or broken. There are many different kinds of split rings. Fine guage, standard guage and heavy gauge. As far as I know the heavy gauge only goes down to size 4. Then you have the type of metal. Nickel-Plated Brass, Polished brass, Stainless steel, nickle plated steel, or Zinc plated steel. Each with it's own +s and -s. If it just for a blade you should be just fine with a fine guage #2s. They open easy and have good memory. With all split rings you need to use finese. When they are sprung take them off and try it again.

[DDSBYDAY]

If you are attaching your line tie to the split ring you will need a standard guage split ring. The fine guage is for blades only.

[Crymdawg]

DDSBYDAY, on 10 May 2010 - 09:08 AM, said:

If you are attaching your line tie to the split ring you will need a standard guage split ring. The fine guage is for blades only.

No I'm using a duo-snap for the line tie. It is the split ring from the blade to the hook eye that is the problem. The hooks are 3/0 or larger making the eye wire pretty thick guage wire. When I called Jann's they said use onle a size #2, yet Barlow's catalog says use a #3 or larger. Now I know there is not much difference between a #2 & #3 in diamater. I guess it is my technique that is problematic. Plus the snap rings are sliding in my TEXAS TACKLE Split Ring pliers .

[DDSBYDAY]

Crymdawg, on 14 May 2010 - 09:15 PM, said:

No I'm using a duo-snap for the line tie. It is the split ring from the blade to the hook eye that is the problem. The hooks are 3/0 or larger making the eye wire pretty thick guage wire. When I called Jann's they said use onle a size #2, yet Barlow's catalog says use a #3 or larger. Now I know there is not much difference between a #2 & #3 in diamater. I guess it is my technique that is problematic. Plus the snap rings are sliding in my TEXAS TACKLE Split Ring pliers .

I made my own split ring pliers. With it I can get a 1/0 seaguard heavy hook on a size 1 standard guage split ring. It's about the limit for that ring. I don't know if I could do it with a standard pliers. Other than the one I use there is one you can get at fleet farm for less than 6$ that works ok. If the ring doesn't close up completely it is sprung and should not be used.

[Real Deal Custom Tackle]

I use the open wire style heads. Allows you to put the blade directly on and then bend the wire to secure it. Eliminates the need for the split rings. I have several pics on my website. If you would like to see them send me a pm and I'll direct you to them.

[Jason O]

I've been making them with arky jigs and have had the same problem. I was wondering if their is a certain hook that I could bend the eye out too acept the blade and then bend back? Thanks for any help.

[BobP]

I don't cast jigs but think the original Chatterbait design with the blade connected directly to the hook eye has the best action. I tried modifying jigs/hooks to get a chatter style bait. It was a failure because the good hooks (I like Gamakatsu) are tempered steel and break unless they are heated to "de-temper" them and worked while hot. The only hooks I found that bend without heating are the thin wire Mustad jig hooks used on small ball jigs - which if you think about it, is not exactly a testament to their durability or resistance to bending (which is OK, they aren't designed to last forever). I gave up puttering with hooks and just buy chatter style jigs from companies that know how to get it done.

[Jason O]

Would jump rings work good for this ap? Anyone have a good supplier for ss jump rings? I like using 5/8 and 3/4 baits for deep water and I haven't seen any jig heads that big.

[Long Lake Lures]

I drilled a hole in a poison tail mold to accept 0.051 SS wire. Once the head is poured, bend the wire back to form the loop. Attach the blade directly to the loop. I agree that this configuration has better action, although it takes the paint off the side of the head after a while. Hope this helps, Dave