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Fishwhittler

Garolite (micarta) Water Absorption?

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I'm considering trying circuit board for my crankbait lips, but I noticed on the McMaster website that it says garolite "offers excellent strength and low water absorption". Does that mean that micarta soaks up water?

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I suppose some kinds of garolite may have minuscule water absorption, depending on the substrate used (cloth, fiberglass mat, etc) but I've never heard of a failure caused by water infiltration into a garolite lip, regardless of the substrate. I like it on shallow crankbaits for its rebound and dive characteristics. Garolite for crankbaits is typically 1/32" thick, compared to 1/16" Lexan.

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I suppose some kinds of garolite may have minuscule water absorption, depending on the substrate used (cloth, fiberglass mat, etc) but I've never heard of a failure caused by water infiltration into a garolite lip, regardless of the substrate. I like it on shallow crankbaits for its rebound and dive characteristics. Garolite for crankbaits is typically 1/32" thick, compared to 1/16" Lexan.

Hi Guy's. The best thing to do is clear coat the lip. Alot of people dont. Clear coating the lip seals the edge of the material where its been cut or punched. It also makes the bait look better (IMO). Vann

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Thanks!

So garolite may soak up water to a very small degree, but if you clearcoat the lip than that isn't an issue. Actually, since I'm using PVC I may not bother coating the lip if I decide to go with garolite.

@Vanndalizer, does coating the lip have any effect on the action of the bait? I use epoxy topcoat, and so clear-coating the bill could make it considerably thicker. Could this affect the action?

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You could probably seal the bill with a drop or two of crazy glue. It's light, and will soak into any place that might absorb water.

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You could probably seal the bill with a drop or two of crazy glue. It's light, and will soak into any place that might absorb water.

CA is not waterproof either. Actually one of the method to remove CA if you fingers got stuck is to soak it in warm/hot water....

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CA is not waterproof either. Actually one of the method to remove CA if you fingers got stuck is to soak it in warm/hot water....

Really?

I used it, before Fishing Glue and Mend It, to repair both soft plastics and to seal chips in the topcoat and paint on wooden lures, and it's held up just fine.

I use it to seat my Spro swivel hook hangers in my swimbaits and lures.

I even use it to seal the balsa before I repaint balsa cranks, and I've got cranks that I have fished for years.

I've never had a problem.

Could the water temperature be the thing that releases the glue?

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While everyones on the subject, I'm building some crankbaits out of PVC and circuit board bills. What is the best glue to use to glue them in place or would it be better to epoxy them in place?

By the way I've already built crainkbaits out of balsa, circuit board bills and fished them for over two years now and have had no problem with the bills getting water in them. On of the best crankbaits you can buy is a

Brians Bee and he backs his bait up with circuit board bills.

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I'm considering trying circuit board for my crankbait lips, but I noticed on the McMaster website that it says garolite "offers excellent strength and low water absorption". Does that mean that micarta soaks up water?

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I have been using Garolite for several years and not sealing it in any way. I use DN as a final coating and a small amount will get on the lip where it attaches to the plug body. I have not had a problem with any type of separation of lip failure as of yet. In my humble opinion just glue it in place, seal the plug as you see fit and fish with it. By the way I have used some of the plugs with Garoliote lips in saltwater with no problems.

Rotorhead

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