Solvent-base Clears And Aerosol Paint

[Fishwhittler]

Does anyone use Dick Nites over aerosol paint? I'm painting some plastic lure bodies, and I would like a thinner topcoat than the epoxy I'm using now. I don't have an airbrush, so practically all of the paints that I use are solvent base spray paint.

Also, has anyone tried U-POL Clear#1?

[RayburnGuy]

I tried using DN over some aerosol and it didn't turn out so well. I got the bright idea that it would be quicker and easier to shoot a white base coat with an aerosol can. I shot the white base coat and dried it thoroughly with a heat gun. Used Createx for the paint scheme and everything seemed to be going great. That is until I applied the DN. The paint job immediately started wrinkling. And I mean wrinkling BAD! Unless you've got a degree in chemistry and know how different solvents will react with each other I'd stay away from using DN with aerosol paint cans. It would probably be a better idea to use epoxies like D2T or Etex when painting with aerosol cans.

I've also used U-Pol a few times. I was painting a fluorescent yellow bait with a blue back and didn't want the blue bleeding into the yellow and making green. After spraying the yellow I sprayed a think coat of the U-Pol to seal it before spraying the blue. That part worked great. But again it had bad reactions when I top coated with the DN. The DN seemed to dissolve the U-Pol and eat away at the edge where the blue and yellow came together. And if your thinking about using U-Pol as the top coat I'm not sure this would give enough protection as the thickness of the U-Pol is quite thin and also not sure how tough it is.

Hope this helped. No doubt there will be others with much more experience than I who will chime in.

[Fishwhittler]

I tried using DN over some aerosol and it didn't turn out so well. I got the bright idea that it would be quicker and easier to shoot a white base coat with an aerosol can. I shot the white base coat and dried it thoroughly with a heat gun. Used Createx for the paint scheme and everything seemed to be going great. That is until I applied the DN. The paint job immediately started wrinkling. And I mean wrinkling BAD! Unless you've got a degree in chemistry and know how different solvents will react with each other I'd stay away from using DN with aerosol paint cans. It would probably be a better idea to use epoxies like D2T or Etex when painting with aerosol cans.

I've also used U-Pol a few times. I was painting a fluorescent yellow bait with a blue back and didn't want the blue bleeding into the yellow and making green. After spraying the yellow I sprayed a think coat of the U-Pol to seal it before spraying the blue. That part worked great. But again it had bad reactions when I top coated with the DN. The DN seemed to dissolve the U-Pol and eat away at the edge where the blue and yellow came together. And if your thinking about using U-Pol as the top coat I'm not sure this would give enough protection as the thickness of the U-Pol is quite thin and also not sure how tough it is.

Hope this helped. No doubt there will be others with much more experience than I who will chime in.

Thanks!

I guess that Dick Nites is out for me until I get an airbrush. I suppose I could use polycrylic between paint and topcoat, but I don't really want to do that.

I would be using several coats of U-POL if I did get it. But now that I think about it, I may just try a low-build epoxy instead. Trondak U-40 looks like it might be what I want.

[Matt Moreau]

HAHA Rayburn Guy.... I do the same thing. Use spraypaint as a base and then go from there with createx. I had the wrinkling issue too but I use a brushing laquer as my topcoat... It would wrinkle it bad... So I just bought some polyacrylic(waterbased) and I dip my lure in there let dry 24 hrs and then dip it in the laquer. Seems to work fine and no wrinkling. should work with DN too I would imagine.