pat28

Freezing Epoxy?

6 posts in this topic

Hello fellow lure makers,

I use an epoxy mix to seal my wooden muskie lures, and also as a top coat. Though I truly like the toughness of that finish, I still think it is a pain in the *@*)@&)!*ss to use. Lately, a friend of mine was told that it was possible to prepare a mix of epoxy and freeze it for future use, and then to thaw it out in hot water. Does this make any sense? I should add that I use NuLustre 55, which is not a quick setting glue. Thanks for your help!

Pat

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Hello fellow lure makers,

I use an epoxy mix to seal my wooden muskie lures, and also as a top coat. Though I truly like the toughness of that finish, I still think it is a pain in the *@*)@&)!*ss to use. Lately, a friend of mine was told that it was possible to prepare a mix of epoxy and freeze it for future use, and then to thaw it out in hot water. Does this make any sense? I should add that I use NuLustre 55, which is not a quick setting glue. Thanks for your help!

Pat

I say this with much caution, I spray a polyamid epoxy. When I am done, I put the unused portion in the freezer and use when I need it next and "knock on wood" I have not had any problems. When I take it out of the freezer, I just let it set for 20 minuets or until it looks ok and then spray.

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I say this with much caution, I spray a polyamid epoxy. When I am done, I put the unused portion in the freezer and use when I need it next and "knock on wood" I have not had any problems. When I take it out of the freezer, I just let it set for 20 minuets or until it looks ok and then spray.

I want to add that I spray this through a regular size automotive paint gun. It has a 1.8mm nozzle. I thin this with acetone. 10 oz of clear to 1 oz of acetone. I have used xylene and I think it works better, I ran out and havn't bought any more yet.

I clean my gun with laquer thinner.

One problem with this clear and I have been told that any plolyamid epoxy, is that is yellows or turns amber tint where it trys to run, around eye sockets, or on the ends where the drip forms.

It shows up on Chartreuse, Yellow, White, Pearl. Most of the time I don't have this problem.

Now I am going to try some of Dick Nite's. It is 4 times higher than what I am using. I am not looking forward to this because of the unknowns. I have sprayed some water base polyurethane products and they spray like water, it just runs off, I hope the Dick Nites is not like that.

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I want to add that I spray this through a regular size automotive paint gun. It has a 1.8mm nozzle. I thin this with acetone. 10 oz of clear to 1 oz of acetone. I have used xylene and I think it works better, I ran out and havn't bought any more yet.

I clean my gun with laquer thinner.

One problem with this clear and I have been told that any plolyamid epoxy, is that is yellows or turns amber tint where it trys to run, around eye sockets, or on the ends where the drip forms.

It shows up on Chartreuse, Yellow, White, Pearl. Most of the time I don't have this problem.

Now I am going to try some of Dick Nite's. It is 4 times higher than what I am using. I am not looking forward to this because of the unknowns. I have sprayed some water base polyurethane products and they spray like water, it just runs off, I hope the Dick Nites is not like that.

David, email or call Dick about any spraying concerns you may have, as he sprays it on his spoons; I doubt anyone has sprayed as much of it as he has!

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David, email or call Dick about any spraying concerns you may have, as he sprays it on his spoons; I doubt anyone has sprayed as much of it as he has!

Hey thanks Lure-Prof, the problem I had with the PE was it would fill up the eyelets immediately with the first coat, with the epoxy I could keep the eyelets open because it would "Stick" to the jig instead of running. These are jig hooks size 1 through 3/0, so the eyelets are small to begin with.

Thanks,

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Let me know how the DN Spraying works, I just got some last month but haven't had a chance to use it yet. I don't know what Ratio I need to mix in the Acetone.

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