10 replies to this topic
Posted 30 May 2010 - 12:11 AM
Howdy Guys. I know this has probably been discussed many times before, but I havn't had luck looking through the topics trying to find my answer. So Please bare with me. I'm still very new to the airbrushing.
I have attempted to make a 3-D crawfish pattern where the lines are the same on both sides of the lure, but cannot get the lines to look seemless across the back to connect both sides. Mine messed up, so I finally just sprayed a darker color over the back to hide it. Does anyone have any pointers to help me figure this out. It's about got the best of me. I just can't get a stencil to cooperate... and would like to make somthing that is easier to use over and over.
Here's a pic of the one I tried. First and only 3-D style craw I have done.
Posted 30 May 2010 - 03:24 AM
Jig - try making a full stencil rather than one for each side.
Get some old blister pack and fold it over a bait blank, then heat with a heat gun while stretching the plastic around the blank, meeting at the bottom, then, cursing your blistered fingers, let it (stencil) cool and cut out your pattern. pete
Posted 30 May 2010 - 10:21 PM
Great question jig, been wanting to get better on that myself !
Posted 30 May 2010 - 10:32 PM
Thanks for the Tips! Does anyone have any pictures of how they cut out a stencil for a Craw Pattern? Do you have a single stencil per side or mutiple stencils to make the left and right segments of the shell at once. Sorry, I know this is a confusing question.
I just can't get a stencil fixed to make the proper shading of the shell segments without having a perfectly straight line.
Edited by JIGnJ()N, 30 May 2010 - 10:36 PM.
Posted 01 June 2010 - 12:01 AM
I would like to know where to get one of those Blister Packaging Material packs, Can you help me out?
Posted 01 June 2010 - 06:42 AM
Go out to your local hardware store and find something cheap with a clear plastic cover and cardboard sheet back - you know the ones that drive you crazy when you are trying to get the staples out, or the ones that are welded all round and you need a sabre saw to open them up, these are blister packs, the plastic is heated and shrunk down around the article inside - Find something flat like a roller tray and you will have a nice flat sheet of plastic, that will form with heat.
I'm sure you guys would have a million places where you can just go in and buy a sheet of this stuff, but not living there I would not have a clue.
Posted 02 June 2010 - 08:13 PM
I use the ones from the packaging that my lures come in. I have also had good luck using the clear plastic boxes that berries and cherry tomatoes often come in. Just trim off the solid pieces and use those. I tried using a heat gun and it melted the plastic too fast for me to do what I wanted with it. It also began to soften the lure that I was attempting to mold. My hairdryer that I use for heat setting my paints worked just fine though. It does take a bit longer than the heat gun but that only gave me more time to mold the melted plastic how I wanted it around the bait. I also had to remind myself that I was trying to achieve functionality, not a good looking mold. This is a tough hobby sometimes for a perfectionist.
Posted 04 June 2010 - 02:45 PM
I defiantly agree this is a tough hobby for perfectionists =P I'm going to try and go out to the store and pick up some of that Blister Pack stuff and give that a test. I've thought about taking the Stretch wrap stuff that you use for food, laying it tight over the lure, Putting a layer of epoxy on it and letting it dry, then use the rock hard epoxy as the stencil after I cut some Designs into it. Has anyone tried that yet?
Posted 05 June 2010 - 04:36 PM
Great idea Stryker, I can think of a few applications for your gladwrap thing -
I am not sure if anyone has mentioned it , but there is a very good Tutorial by Jerry (RedG8r) "TU 2010 Vacuum forming" - here:
Posted 05 June 2010 - 07:13 PM
If you feel it's important that your craw segment lines reach entirely around the bait, the whole body stencil makes sense. The "whole body stencil" is also good if you're gonna make a lot of one bait size/style. To me, that's more an aesthetic than a practical thing, and I don't do enough of one pattern bait to make it worthwhile. I use artist's frisket material, which is designed for stencils. It is a clear plastic film with adhesive on one side and a paper backing. I draw an outline of the bait and the cut outs on the paper backing, then cut it out with an Xacto knife. Instead of peeling off the backing, I leave it on the stencil so I can reverse the stencil for the other side of the bait (after wiping off or drying the paint of course). To get 2 sides the same, you need to have marks or cuts on the stencil to register it against the side of the lure (beginning of the lip slot, tail, etc). The advantage of this is that you can build up a library of stencils for various purposes and can adapt the stencils to new bait shapes and sizes.