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Help With New Paasche Talon
13 replies to this topic
Posted 18 June 2010 - 07:09 PM
I have a Brand new air brush and the thinned paint is bubbling out the pinhole in the cup. How thin does the paint need to be. im using createx opaque white and createx thinner. what ratio is necessary? I even added water but still the same. What adjustments do I need to make. i'm totally new to this airbrush.
Posted 18 June 2010 - 07:20 PM
I use an Iwata but bubbling generally means the cap at the end of the brush is loose....try gently tightening it. Don't overdue it! Just snug, I tighten mine finger tight.
Posted 18 June 2010 - 09:58 PM
I agree with Riverman, the only time I have had bubbling in the cup is when the nozzle has not been as tight as it should be. Be careful thightening it like riverman said, its only fine thread and can be damaged easy.
On my cheaper airbrushes which dont seal all that well, i put a little slither of plumbers tape to ensure a good seal.
Posted 19 June 2010 - 12:25 AM
A little beeswax on the threads will seal any air leaks as well.
Posted 19 June 2010 - 12:43 AM
OK, I tightened the nozzle and it was still bubbling. I took it apart and am soaking it overnight. I did spray a coat of paint on my lure with thinned opaque white createx. It came out splattered. I turned up the psi to 30# and it was better. I thought a gravity feed brush was supposed to take lower pressure than that. Maybe i'm not thinning enough or it's clogging? Frustrating process here. I appreciate the help so far. i'll try again tomorrow.
Posted 19 June 2010 - 12:19 PM
Another cause of bubbling is a clog. White airbrush paint is often heavily pigmented so it can be used to cover underlying wood grain, etc, so it is more prone to clogging. Don't be afraid of taking your airbrush apart (especially the tip parts and needle). You'll do it countless times for cleaning, clog removal, etc, so may as well get used to it! Just treat the parts with care so you don't damage them. BTW, I almost always shoot at 30 psi or more except when doing details with thinned paint. Airbrush pressure vs paint viscosity is a balance that each painter has to deal with. My way is usually to turn up the psi instead of dumping the paint, cleaning the brush, thinning the paint and trying it again. Sometimes that works, sometimes not - but it is quick!
Edited by BobP, 19 June 2010 - 12:26 PM.
Posted 19 June 2010 - 02:17 PM
Thanks, I'm going to try everything. Hopefully I can get thisbait painted soon.
PS how do you post a pic on this site?
Posted 19 June 2010 - 08:45 PM
To post a pic just click on "Gallery" at the top of the "Forums" page. Then select the appropriate section. (hard baits, spinner baits, soft baits, etc.) At the top of the page you will see "Submit New Image". Click on that. Once you get to that page you can write a description of the bait. (type of bait, brand of paint, etc.) Once you've done that you will need to scroll down to where you see "Image to Upload". Click on "Browse" and go to where you have the picture stored on your computer and select it. Once you've done that just click "Submit Image" and your done.
Posted 19 June 2010 - 09:22 PM
I spray at about 45 PSI...........yes you can use less than that but at 45PSI you can just set it and leave it. Learning to use an airbrush is a slow process so be patient. Keep your brush very clean all the time, clean it between colors, don't overtighten anything, be extremely careful with the needle and use water based paints so you can wash them off when you make mistakes.
Posted 21 June 2010 - 07:39 AM
Thanks alot guys. I bumped up the pressure and kept water and cleaner running through the brush after every color. I painted all of the colors on my shad bait yesterday. I'll post the pics tonight when I get home. How long should I let the bait cure before clear coating?
Posted 21 June 2010 - 09:43 AM
I posted a pic in the gallery of a gizzard shad and bass. I'd like to duplicate these colors on the shad. It looks like white light reflecting on the scales and dull grey showing around the edges of the scales. Any recommendations? I wish I could attach the pic but don't know how; therefore it is in the gallery under hard baits.
Posted 21 June 2010 - 12:56 PM
When you post a new topic, or add a reply, if you'll scroll down below where you type your message you will see "Attachments". Right below that you'll see a button that says "Browse". Click on the "Browse" button and it will open a menu that you can navigate to where you have your photos stored on your computer. Just click on the photo you want to post and then click on "Attach This File". If you have any more problems just holler. One word of advice. Posting photos in the message board is usually reserved for help with a specific problem that a picture will help identify. Just showing new paint jobs on baits is what the gallery is for. Good luck.
Posted 21 June 2010 - 01:33 PM
I bought a talon as it had a little bigger nozzle than my iwata and i was hopeful it would spray the pearls better... Wish I never bought it... for the $$$ its such an inferior gun than iwata's. I used to use windex to clean my guns and on my iwata for months i never had an issue with the chroming... after a week with the talon the amonia had already eaten the plating down to where i can see the bronze or copper. Plus the gun feels cheap in your hands. Its very light and the action isnt very smooth at all. The mechanism to stop the pin for fine detail is a nice touch but they need to work it over a bit better co it stays adjusted and doesnt move. All in all though if this gun was $40-50 it would be ok and it does shoot paint OK... Now I use it for my base coats and stuff like that.
For the Talon Capt. my PSI are always between 30-40 psi and I do not thin my createx. I have no bubbling and no splatter. I do use beeswax on the threads to seal them... Do what everyone told you here and you should be fine. If you need help let me know as i have taken the talon apart a bunch now that i have had it a couple months.
Posted 22 June 2010 - 10:52 PM
OK, I finished up painting on my very first wood swimbait. It is carved from a Tupelo tree that I cut this year. The bait measures 9.5 inches long and weighs 5oz. It is meant to be a gizzard shad. Please comment on my pics in the hard bait gallery. I know the segments are pretty butchered. Should I go with fewer segments. The swimbait bite at my locality is a fast retrieve. I s a tight wobble preferred?